I dont have an orifice tube...That isn’t one of those things I see on late night TV that dude has in his pocket that helps him pee is it?
Build Thread 1978 Fairmont. I bet somebody back home’s thinkin’…I wonder why he don’t write..?
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I dont have an orifice tube...That isn’t one of those things I see on late night TV that dude has in his pocket that helps him pee is it?
I don't know what combination of AC stuff you have. Does it have an actual expansion valve then? Does the same job, but costs more money. I think you are asking about a she-wee or a go-girl. I actually bought my wife a go-girl, and then I got bombarded with questions from Amazon users. "No, it doesn't hold any piss, it's just a funnel, like a prosthetic penis."
I was kind of away for awhile, because we had a Rona scare, and our test results just came back negative tonight.
Kurt
I think there is an expansion valve at the evap unit. And ( evidently you don’t watch the old guys talking about how the EZ glide glass catheter makes taking a piss so much easier)
” Yes, when having the urge come upon me, I jam this glass tube in my peen....Ahhhhhh,..so nice”
Lol, no. I don't have cable TV, and don't watch commercials at all. Not sure what you have to do with an expansion valve. There might be a screen in there somewhere that needs rinsing out.
Kurt
Im sitting here thinking about what I want to accomplish on Sunday, in full Bi-polar mode. On one hand I’m thinkin:
“Does it really have to be any faster than it is right now?” However much power it’s making right now to light the tires at 60 mph seems like it’s already excessive, and ”Why on earth would I need more?”
I get no answer back.
Then Im looking at the drag radials standing in my doorway thinking, “ Do I really want to mount these things in place if my street tires when I have a 600 mile round trip planned now less than two weeks away?” Seems to me I should be focusing on reliability, NOT street hero status.
Again,...this is a one sided conversation,..nobody in my usually busy head is even trying to make an argument to justify putting on those “ street tires” in place of the real ones currently on the car.
What I want is: I want the turbo lag gone. ( I think I do,..maybe it’ll help to not blaze the tires off the line from the jump)
The fact that you can count to three before the tires decide to just go ape sht seems to be lacking something. Instead of trying to control tire spin at 7k, I should be trying to control tire spin at 3k.
Then I might be better able to justify putting those tires on there.
Watching the AFR at interstate speed last week while driving it to get it aligned showed it to be too fat at cruise..the thing was cruising at 11.9-12.5. I’m sure the fact that there was a big assed air leak immediately under the turbo might have contributed to that, but again, i’m thinking getting it closer to Stoich at cruisin speed is more important. I need the engine to start from first crank. It is a pain in the ass to hot start this thing
Thats two points for reliability.
I check the ten day forecast...the temps are forecasted to be in the mid 70’s for highs, and the day I’m set to leave on the 8th of Oct its supposed be 46 degrees in the morning. ( And why exactly did I spend so much time trying to shut off water to the heater core?) Fortunately, the fix to reverse that is a twist of two handles.
I gotta admit I’m looking forward to tomorrow,...Whatever power level I end up with is all controlled by the pedal.
“Does it really have to be any faster than it is right now?” However much power it’s making right now to light the tires at 60 mph seems like it’s already excessive, and ”Why on earth would I need more?”
I get no answer back.
Then Im looking at the drag radials standing in my doorway thinking, “ Do I really want to mount these things in place if my street tires when I have a 600 mile round trip planned now less than two weeks away?” Seems to me I should be focusing on reliability, NOT street hero status.
Again,...this is a one sided conversation,..nobody in my usually busy head is even trying to make an argument to justify putting on those “ street tires” in place of the real ones currently on the car.
What I want is: I want the turbo lag gone. ( I think I do,..maybe it’ll help to not blaze the tires off the line from the jump)
The fact that you can count to three before the tires decide to just go ape sht seems to be lacking something. Instead of trying to control tire spin at 7k, I should be trying to control tire spin at 3k.
Then I might be better able to justify putting those tires on there.
Watching the AFR at interstate speed last week while driving it to get it aligned showed it to be too fat at cruise..the thing was cruising at 11.9-12.5. I’m sure the fact that there was a big assed air leak immediately under the turbo might have contributed to that, but again, i’m thinking getting it closer to Stoich at cruisin speed is more important. I need the engine to start from first crank. It is a pain in the ass to hot start this thing
Thats two points for reliability.
I check the ten day forecast...the temps are forecasted to be in the mid 70’s for highs, and the day I’m set to leave on the 8th of Oct its supposed be 46 degrees in the morning. ( And why exactly did I spend so much time trying to shut off water to the heater core?) Fortunately, the fix to reverse that is a twist of two handles.
I gotta admit I’m looking forward to tomorrow,...Whatever power level I end up with is all controlled by the pedal.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Before my tune was as close as Steve has gotten it my car was scary to drive. If you remember thats how I ended up on top of the Wally World bushes....that and the fact that I tried to pedal when I should've let off. Lesson learned.
Can’t wait to see how you feel about it after Steve is done. Did you get your turbo bolts back on and sealed?
The turbo is bolted back down. I added copper RTV to the V band flange on the down pipe. I’ll start it again tonight after work. I expect it to be ready to go.
I’m sure that some or all of my lack of control issues came down to the front end alignment. Especially after the alignment guy shows me that when you Un-weight the front end, the passenger side CC plate would move because it wasn’t tight.
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And I'll bet you thought I was jokin.
OMG dude. You know way more about cars than I do, but you have clearly been poisoning your organs. If I had relaxed with the assortment in this picture, I would have had to install a port-o-potty in the car to make a long road trip the next day. I've never even heard about "Stillhouse" which is apparently some canned product, but directly behind it you have positioned "Jameson" which is the run off from a fractionating tower; that
is slightly less crude than Jet fuel.Kurt
Read the “can”. it’s not Moonshine. It’s 80 proof whiskey w/o the benefit of the caramel color that happens when they put it in a barrel. As for the Jameson,...Irish whiskey is my choice. I find it to be smoother, and sweeter than something like Jack Daniels.OMG dude. You know way more about cars than I do, but you have clearly been poisoning your organs. If I had relaxed with the assortment in this picture, I would have had to install a port-o-potty in the car to make a long road trip the next day. I've never even heard about "Stillhouse" which is apparently some canned product, but directly behind it you have positioned "Jameson" which is the run off from a fractionating tower; that
Kurt
Lastly,..just like tomorrow,..it all comes to to how hard i push the pedal, or how many times I fill the glass.
We need another thread to cover this topic. Otherwise we will just end up with another 600+ pages of
posts.Kurt
And when I delete that one too, half of you will bitch that I just erased 600 pages of tech.We need another thread to cover this topic. Otherwise we will just end up with another 600+ pages of
Kurt
- Mar 7, 2002
- 9,432
- 5,380
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Ain't no point in arriving at your funeral with a healthy corpse.
Just sayin'.....
Alright then. I’m awake, having coffee. In about 30 minutes or so, I go down and wake up the monster. Just a few things that need to be done/ checked before we have ignition.
When I get back after the tune session, provided everything goes well, I have to modify the exhaust. It just hangs way too low. All I really need to do is cut a straight section out of the rear, and add it back in front of the bends that route the exhaust under the trans. I need to move that part back about 10”. Should be easy-peasy. When that’s done, I’m swapping the current hood for the OG monster hood. Currently hanging on the wall in the lair. I just don’t like the warp along the side of V2.0 hood, and I wanna try to eliminate some of the under hood heat. One of two things will come of that though..
I’ll either:
1. Do it up.
or...
2. Screw it up.
( I think I’ll start a poll for how that’ll go later today)
I have to perfectly cut the aero catch hood pins into the original hood. There is literally zero room for even the slightest mis-calculation, as the hood pins themselves are set rigidly in the upper radiator saddle, I won’t be able to move them around should I miscalculate.
With the G nostrils all pokin up there an sht, the OG hood is just more unique. The reason I took it off was that I decided to try and do a more faithful tribute copy to the muscle car I was trying to copy, and wanted a straight front facing hood scoop instead of the Buick GS looking things that were on that hood, and either the paint, or the body work failed because I forgot to put the turbo blanket on one time. The heat coming off of the turbine was a little too much for the bondo above, and there are two areas that have bubbles in them now.
So i either have a hood with bubbles, or a big assed tweak that won’t let the hood match the fender line...either way, less than perfect.
When I get back after the tune session, provided everything goes well, I have to modify the exhaust. It just hangs way too low. All I really need to do is cut a straight section out of the rear, and add it back in front of the bends that route the exhaust under the trans. I need to move that part back about 10”. Should be easy-peasy. When that’s done, I’m swapping the current hood for the OG monster hood. Currently hanging on the wall in the lair. I just don’t like the warp along the side of V2.0 hood, and I wanna try to eliminate some of the under hood heat. One of two things will come of that though..
I’ll either:
1. Do it up.
or...
2. Screw it up.
( I think I’ll start a poll for how that’ll go later today)
I have to perfectly cut the aero catch hood pins into the original hood. There is literally zero room for even the slightest mis-calculation, as the hood pins themselves are set rigidly in the upper radiator saddle, I won’t be able to move them around should I miscalculate.
With the G nostrils all pokin up there an sht, the OG hood is just more unique. The reason I took it off was that I decided to try and do a more faithful tribute copy to the muscle car I was trying to copy, and wanted a straight front facing hood scoop instead of the Buick GS looking things that were on that hood, and either the paint, or the body work failed because I forgot to put the turbo blanket on one time. The heat coming off of the turbine was a little too much for the bondo above, and there are two areas that have bubbles in them now.
So i either have a hood with bubbles, or a big assed tweak that won’t let the hood match the fender line...either way, less than perfect.
- Mar 7, 2002
- 9,432
- 5,380
- 224
Yes it is, and I'm WINNING!!!It's also not a race....
And to get this back on subject, I vote Mike messes up the hood in his eyes, then makes it more better.
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