Build Thread 1978 Fairmont. I bet somebody back home’s thinkin’…I wonder why he don’t write..?

Ok then. Focusing on “what is“, instead of “what will be“, ...Im gonna return the tires.....for now.

Given that the car makes zero bottom end below 4000 rpm, the liklihood of wearing the tires out from excessive mileage rather than stopping tire spin becomes the main reason for doing that.

Spring will hopefully be a different story.

Once the dust settles from that return, Ill change out my turbo and exhaust manifold to twin scroll. I’ll probably put a Borg Warner S300SX on the engine.
The one thing i read last night that rings true for me when selecting a turbo, and it’s pretty much the same advice given when selecting a carb, was don’t go too big. And that a properly sized smaller unit will more than make up for any total power loss due to overall efficiency across the low-midrange rpm band. A S300SX is a twin scroll 60-66mm unit. It’ll end up costing about twice what the Chinee unit was ( most selling for around 600.00). I just gotta find a vendor to help me pick the right one.
Jose at forced inductions .

he won’t sell you something you don’t need either.
 
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There is no way in hell I’d go through all of that. It’s easier to admit that I got lucky just buying the Chinee turbo for the old engine, and it worked great right out of the box. But One turbo, One wastegate, One hotside/One cold side , and One set of mating surfaces is all i’m messing with.

Let's say it together: "there's no way in hell I'd go through all of that....right now. But when this doesn't work and I drink just one glass of whiskey too much, 2nd turbo and parts to fab it up will be ordered"

:nono: at first, but :nice: eventually!

I've read that the problem with compound is usually too much boost too quick and bending rods (at least on a 2.3 post I read). As far as turbo sizing BW turbos there's their wizard:

Caution this IS Rocket Science

If you figure out how to actually interpret this and use it effectively to size your turbo, please let me know. I've even go so far as to be sober and watch the videos and it may as well be Wuhan Voodoo.
 
Huh,...Poll says that more than half of you think i’m a screw up...

Ok...serious study mode * feel free to chime in

I called several turbo resellers today...all of them were too busy to even return my call.

I called one back, and got through to dude. Dude sells all the major brands, but is sweet on Garret. While i’m talking to him telling him what my goals are, what my combo is, and telling him how lazy my spool time is on the current setup, I pause to ask if he sells Borg Warner......He says he does.

Great.

I go on to tell him that I plan to remove the existing turbo and manifold to convert over to a dual scroll combo,..and that my interest in the BW is because of the price..Most s300SX turbos listed out there, are selling around 600.00. I figure I’ll have to buy another 500-600 exhaust manifold, and modify both the hot side, and cold side to accommodate the 500-550 whp power goal I have for this car.

Dude says I have a 2jz, backed by a th400...Ive had a twin scroll BWs366 on the car before,....it took forever to come up onto boost....I freakin hated it.
He goes on to ask, “What if I told you that you don’t have to do any of that, excepting a small downpipe mod...
keep your manifold bolted to the head..Leave your cold side alone, and replace the Chinee unit with one of ours..
modeled after a Garret 64mm turbo that is a mono scroll piece. It’ll come into boost at 3k rpm, be at full boost at 3500 rpm, and run up to where ever you wanna shift it up to 8000 rpm?
Ohhh,....and it’ll bump you budget by 300 bucks. it’s 899.00
https://www.theboostlab.com/bl64r-turbocharger/

I gotta admit, if this thing will do what dude says..why would I go through the hassle to convert to twin scroll. This is a cheaper solution, with a fraction of the work.
The FB reviews are solid.
The inter web reviews are solid..
Seems legit. I’d trade spending more money over having to do it over three times....I must be getting old.
 
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You know you're going to go twin turbo eventually - save the money and go to twins now. Mount them in the back with the LJK.

Or you could spray it. I'm the devil on your shoulder. :shrug:

Any videos of driving after the tune? Sounds like you have 2 stroke power.
 
You know you're going to go twin turbo eventually - save the money and go to twins now. Mount them in the back with the LJK.

Or you could spray it. I'm the devil on your shoulder. :shrug:

Any videos of driving after the tune? Sounds like you have 2 stroke power.
Why would he be counter productive ? First thing with these is to go single .
 
Im gonna renew my attempt at getting the best advice from these turbo mfg's.
Logically, as opposed to spending 1000 on a new ots basic twin scroll from BW, and the commensurate twin scroll exhaust manifold, then have to spend a day reconfiguring the hot/cold side, I can justify spending that same 1k on a sho-nuff mono scroll unit with some "enhancements" to help it come into boost early. Precision and Garrett for sure..anybody else?
 
Check out VS racing Mike, one of the guys I tune for has two cars that both make over 1k to the wheels.. both cars run VS turbos and they spool by 3k. to be fair the mustang has a 438cid with a 98mm billet wheel turbo with a 96ar hotside and makes 1k at 18psi. yours is a "smidge" different :chin
 
I knew it would happen. I’d buy this freakin auto parts store sensor, cut the end off so I could put a weather pack end on it to match the other end of the wire coming from the ecu, install it,..And the thing wouldn’t start.
After fiddling around, checking connections, reversing connections, it starts, but now it’s chugging, and there’s a freakin clicking noise coming out from under the dash in sync with the chugging noise. Swapping the wires changes nothing..it’s still chugging and clicking.

I look at the part number on my old sensor 90919-05037...The one in the engine now ends in 05022.

The differences between these engines......GE/GTE, and GTE VVTi.....Nothing is standard. There are different sensors for the different crank gear tooth count, and different impedances for the VVTi sensors. Nothing is local, and even what’s out there on the internet is either days or weeks away, or almost 200.00, and still days away.

Now I’m down to a week away from having to make the trip to Mississippi...with a car that won’t start reliably. Desperation has set in. I call A few online Toyota dealers ,..they don’t have it even though it’s listed as “ in stock”.One of them tells me that there are two of the things at some distribution center, but that the way they work, they’d have to order it, it would come to them first, then they’d ship it to me...In other words...Not by Thursday. The guy tells me that the only way I’d get it faster would be to buy it retail at one of the local dealers, they’d order it, and it would come to them directly. Then it’s simply a matter of picking it up from them the day it comes in.

And having to pay the retail price for an OEM part with the words Toyota on it......174.00 plus tax.
So,..what choice do I have then? I call Hoover Toyota, drop a “ This is Mike from Birmingham BMW” on ol dude,..and tell him that there is a part in Atlanta that I need him to get for me.
He checks, confirms that the part is in stock, and orders it. Takes my credit card, and quotes the “ Birmingham BMW” price at 133.00 plus tax... or...154.00. And it’ll be here at 9AM Thursday..

Despite that, Im still pissed...A 2jz,....as popular as they are/were is just as hard to get parts for as it was for the old engine.Probably shoulda put a 5.0 Windsor in the thing.

Id have shot myself in the face by now out of sheer boredom, but at least it would be running.:suicide:
 
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A 351 based force induction engine would have provided the power level, not been quite as bellybutton, but would not have been the creative challenge. Would you have been happy with easy?
 
If it makes you feel any better, look at the price of a Motorcraft TFI distributor these days... if you can even find one. It's in the same ballpark as the price of your crank sensor. Old belly buttons are getting more and more expensive each year.
 
Despite that, Im still pissed...A 2jz,....as popular as they are/were is just as hard to get parts for as it was for the old engine.Probably shoulda put a 5.0 Windsor in the thing.

Id have shot myself in the face by now out of sheer boredom, but at least it would be running.:suicide:

The correct answer would be 4.6 4V... with a power adder. Would've bolted right in with either a stock or aftermarket 96-04 Mustang crossmember, would've looked gorgeous when done, and would've made insane power. That's what I'm shoving down ElSuperPinto's throat, and YOU'RE the one that inspired it.

As you know from my MANY HiLux, Hi Ace, SR5, RAV4, and Lexus IS250 prox sensor issues, there is no way I'd rub your face in it CMA, THAT'S why I hate Toyotas.
Don't know what the hell ya'll are doing to the things down there in upside down world. Here Toyotas just don't break as a general rule. I've driven my 4Runner 50,000+ miles in less than three years with ZERO failures. I've inspected hundreds of lease-turn-in, repo, and trade-in Toyotas at various car dealerships I've worked for and with very rare exceptions, done brakes and tires and shipped them.
 
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