Build Thread 1978 Fairmont. I bet somebody back home’s thinkin’…I wonder why he don’t write..?

Out of all the thunder and bluster comes the one right answer,. Thank you Mustang5L5, I agree with you and you beat me to it.
I knew that too :)
Was just coming to see whatss going on with the car. But by the looks and reads of it, it doesnt appear to be going well.

Just beat the fckn bushing in try to keep it square. Google every question for some lead or picture. Like if the bushing is suppose ld to go all the way down or not. Which side goes where. whatever your question in ur mind is.


Why cant you just tap that plate ir insert helicoles? I assume if use a bigger bolt youll need to drill out the bellhousing?

You got the know how. And the tools im sure. You know what needs to be done. It boils down to being a labor or money issue.

Those inserted nuts are trash for anything over 50ft lb if that, or whatever. :poo: looks like it would pull right out and it did?

Cant tig weld nuts on one side? Assuming no.

Id just tap the hole in the nearest size up.
There’s Mikey!

I‘m actually heading out to work.

You didn’t give me a chance to include an example.

Let‘s say your compressor goes down right in the middle of something critical. So you break out your friendly Google search and you get this picture as a solution:
6962520C-37AF-423F-8E7D-990987DE74A4.jpeg

How many people would find that helpful do you think?

If it had a comment box below it that gave you the choices, Was this photo helpful?.....was this photo not helpful?......wtf is this photo?
Which one would y’all check?

And to think, you probably didn’t think this photo would ever be useful......
When you write a post like #74 (quoted below), I see a bunch of statements ending with 'will be running by...' It seems you're telling us what you plans are and keeping us up to date, not soliciting input. You're doing stuff with things probably none of us have ever seen, so it's hard for any of us to have input in that area anyway since we aren't there and can't see it.

If you want input, ask the questions. You'll end up with way more input than you can handle. Like recently when were trying to decide 4L80E vs. A340 vs your old trans.

My only input on automatics is 'don't, unless you can't physically work a clutch or you're trying to break records'. Automatics turn a non-racecar into an appliance. Yes, they go faster. So what? Are you planning on trying to break some records?

Manuals are where it's at - more fun to drive, easier to maintain, don't suck the soul out of the car and it's occupants. I would require everyone in the country to learn to drive a manual. Can't learn to drive a stick? That sucks, I guess you don't drive at all.

(At least you know some people are paying attention - look at the number of responses you've received!)
Full manual valve body so he still has to shift the car.
Mike I would have more useful comments or advice for you but you seem to have it worked out by the time I get to posting. Now if you want to talk about the ECU having control of the lockup and the activation requirements or how to wire it I can help. Otherwise I am not qualified to comment on the internals of that transmission.
I guess my comment is a little to late, but did you try putting the "new" bushing on the converter before installing it into the front pump? I don't know much about transmissions as well, but I was just thinking at step one of how does the bushing fit not installed. This would answer the main question of "Is it supposed to fit like this".

Just a thought...
I remember the manual valve body and having to shift it, but it's still not the same without that 3rd pedal and a clutch to burn up...
In light of my recent tirade, ill answer everybody in one big, bowl.
I consider the adapter plate a done deal.
The tied together string of 7/16 nuts on the back side of the plate solves the problem nicely.
I've already " just beat the bushing in" once. That has proven not to be the correct way of doing things. Uninstalled, the bearing literally drops onto the converter pilot, once in the front pump, there is enough bearing crush to make it way tighter. They don't make these things in different sizes, so it all comes down to how it was installed.
And short of actually mic’ing the pump, then the outer diameter of the bushing, and seeing how tight it is, there isn’t much that can be done to change any of that.
when I pose an open end dilemma in one of the updates, it seems to automatically invite input. In other words, I don’t have to end a comment with “what do you guys think?”
Case in point, “I’m not sure if I want to go with dumped flows, or whether I’d be better off going the full exhaust route,..I’m currently weighing my options”
( firstly, this is an example,..under no circumstance on the planet would I ever consider a dumped flow master,...but had that been a real comment by me,..I’m sure there’d be more than one view on that comment)
lastly,...it’s all about what you consider part of the drive when discussing a manual trans vs an auto. Personally you can keep the manual box, I prefer boost. And nothing goes better with boost then not lifting off the gas to change a gear.
 
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I know something that goes better with boost than an auto: Sequential shift + spark/fuel cut (quickshifter in the motorcycle world).

It would go PERFECT with a V-12 jag engine coupled with dumped flows.

Make it happen.
 
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You’re hiding under your chair because you think the guy just:
A.Didn’t fully read the update, and thinks I am actually wondering about my exhaust options?
B. Did read it all, and is making a joke w/o the benefit of a smiley face to indicate sarcasm?
C. I participated in the side-exit exhaust thread that you also posted in.
 
I bought a Harbor Freight bushing install tool. Basically a stick that you can beat on that has a metal disc screwed on one end to allow a more consistent contact patch with the bearing, ( or bushing) that you are trying to drive in.
I also bought two $5.00 front pump bushings.
Im gonna try on Thursday to beat in another bushing using this tool..If that fails, ill take the thing to some shop that can press the other bushing in place instead.
 
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C. I participated in the side-exit exhaust thread that you also posted in.

Im sure I said something about side exit exhaust being “ weak” then?

A Sloppy mechanic drag race exhaust isn’t even on the table...it’s not even on the upcoming agenda for the future conversations with the 3amd..it’s so far away........it’s like infinity creation.
 
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Don't feel too bad. I have to change the brake hoses on my F150 today......and tomorrow. I hate this :leghump:ing :taco: piece of :poo:. Everything on that truck has to be a pain in the dick.

Kurt
:poo: Kurt, I can tell there’s something there bugging you, tell us how you REALLY feel about that truck.:D

Sorry about the useless post Mike. Are you mad at me? I still like you.

Friend good........
 
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The trans is back together..but as it has been with everything since the old monster engine died,..there was still drama. ai got the bushing installed without any incident. The bushing I bought today was markedly better than the last one. this appears to be a one piece unit, the one that gave me grief actually had a seam where it was sectioned together. When I went to check end clearance I put the pump into the trans without the o ring perimeter seal, and without the gasket. while tightening the thing in, I could tell I was jamming the pump into the case...After checking the clearance, ( which was fine) i spent the next hour trying to get the pump back out. It was now wedged into the trans case.

I got it out, but in doing so, I damaged the case, and broke a chunk out of the new front pump. I fixed what I could, but I’m at a point where I don’t care anymore. If it works, it works, if it don’t,..... :nonono:

Tomorrow, i’ll put it back in..I’ll go as far as I can get, and Sunday, I’ll restart.
 
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I think my sleep pattern is evolving..Now if I go to bed with something not right on the car, the 3amd doesn’t wake me,....I wake him.

I don’t know if I‘ve had any sleep really...I laid in bed thinking “ I wonder what’s different in the pump that it’s so tight?“
I know that there are at least 2 different 4l80e’s.....an early, and a late model, and I’m sure that those two pumps don’t interchange, but it’s only a matter of where the holes are in the pump, i can’t believe that they actually made the hole that the pump sits in any different. When it became sane to consider getting up, and possibly making noise in the lower garage, that is right below the master bedroom,....(where Kate was busy not worrying about my car,...snoring away)...I got up got a cup of coffee, and googled “What’s the difference between 4l80e front pumps”..

Turns out there are 3 different ones. 91-96, 97-03, and 04 and up. You can’t put the early pump in any of the later year models, and you can put the mid year pump in the later model trans, by plugging a hole, and you can’t put the late model pump in any thing else...I wonder what I’ve got.
I research my ebay purchases....I’ve got an 07 trans.......and I bought a 97-03 pump.....and...I didn’t plug the hole,..And it is now bolted down tight.
Last night, the pump was only snugged, and had no oring installed. It took all I could do to get that thing out, and I damaged the case trying...Now,..the oring is installed, and the thing has been torqued down all night long. I’m thinking that this will probably be the death nail for the trans.
I research how a trans shop gets that thing out, and most of the time they just pop it out with a screwdriver like i had been able to do with the old pump,..but for stubborn pumps, there is a tool..that costs 400.
I decided to make one..and at 6:30 am, that’s what I’m doing. By 8 i have the contraption fabbed up, and put it to the test..

No worky.

After another hour of tapping, prying, and tightening that damn puller tool, the front pump finally pops up.I lift the thing out, and sure enough, there’s the additional hole I’ll have to plug..The case managed to escape any further damage, but just to be safe, i figure i’ll tip it nose down so that any chunk of sht that may have gotten down inside it might fall out.
20200910_101543.jpg


The front drum assembly dumps out instead. I pick it up, and the input shaft pulls out of the drum.. Not supposed to happen.
I put the thing on the bench, and inspect it..there is a relief cut in the input shaft for a lock ring that holds the whole assembly together so that when you grab the input shaft, the whole front assembly lifts out as a unit.
Now the input shaft pulls right through it. And how that thing even got this way is beyond me..It’s missing a little wire lock ring.
But...there it is..right on the bench..( I was wondering what that thing went to)..The strange part is that I had no occasion to remove it. I never took that assembly apart.

By now,..I’m looking at the original pump..The one with the too big of a hole drilled in it, and the spacer impressions in the pump passages...This freaking thing literally drops into the transmission, and lifts right back out. I decide that aim gonna make this thing work.
I tap the too big hole, and screw in a red loctited 4-40 screw. Then I drill the tiny hole right next to it. I take the other bushing I bought yesterday, and install it. I put the new gears that I had put in the tight pump into the original...now all that was left to do was decide how to deal with the impressions the spacers had left in the pump passages..

Why...JB Weld of course...All i wanted was a very thin smear so that it would fill the low parts where the spacers had left the impressions,..so I mixed up a small amount...painted the three areas where the spacers had left an imprint, and bolted that bitch back together..Hopefully it does the trick.

I put the pump back in, it goes together perfectly,..and I get the trans moved from the stand to my jack. By now, I have a plate and strap assembly to make installation of that enormous pig a fairly easy task. The pan, and plate have “ witness marks” so I know exactly where the balance point on the jack is..Within 15 minutes, that thing is back in place.
Only this time there ain’t no cheese bag t nut barely holding the trans in.
20200910_142240.jpg

This time there‘s a 7/16” nut back behind every hole, held there by a little metal strap.
Once tight, I moved to the tail shaft mount...
20200910_142308.jpg

And now you know What the hell that thing is. Through bolted from the top using the floor reinforcement for structure, I prefer this type of method to a traditional trans mount that gets in the way of the exhaust.
20200910_142330.jpg

the metal is pretty thin,..I added the 16ga plate as additional reinforcement. 5 bolts hold the thing in place.
The last thing I did today was put the driveshaft in place,..and spun it....by hand.
20200910_143429.jpg

20200910_143541.jpg

These are the pig tails that go up and down with the trans. once that tunnel piece gets in there, it’ll be right against the front fitting,..no way i’m fighting that damn thing. You can also see the little nut plates that the tunnel bolts back to,welded to the floor.

So,..I should be on track to start it on Sunday..Ordinarily at 4 PM on my day off I’d still be working on it, but by the time I had the driveshaft installed, I was done dicking with it.
 

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