1978 Fairmont Build. The rear end upgrade.

When Mike tries to cut the Aerocatch fasteners into the original hood, will I:

  • Do it up

    Votes: 5 41.7%
  • Screw it up

    Votes: 7 58.3%

  • Total voters
    12
  • Poll closed .
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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or we can NOT use that archaic device and do it all in the software
1605829325988.png
 

rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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Not sure where the heck this is going......but have popcorn and time.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Ive been reading this morning. As usual, trying to find a simple fcking wiring diagram FROM THE MANUFACTURER of the ECU has proved to be less than easy. Every google search brings up some Miata or RX 7 goobers clutch switch wiring video, and all of these guys are enabling launch/flat shift in the setup.

I dont need no stinking flat shift in my setup.

From what i’ve been able to come up with is that the ECU wants a ground to enable the circuit. Based on that, i’m not gonna make this any harder than it has to be.

I was gonna tie in the signal from the brake light switch as a redundancy so that i could set up a couple of parameters to act as “ checks and balances”, i.e. When the brake is on, AND the TPS is over say 30% pushing the button enables the launch control circuit,......but in the software, launch control is either on/off, and tied to just one input. So.....I don’t need to try and convert the 12v coming from the brake light switch to gnd using a relay anymore.

If all the ECU needs then is a single gnd, then the momentary button by itself will do that. All i have to do is gnd one end of the switch, and wire the other end to the ecu. Pushing the button closes the circuit..the ECU gets its gnd.

The other “Lack of MFG supplied info” issue is How to setup the fcking thing in the software. Again you have to rely on some Youtube video to tell you where to set it. It’s not rocket science by no stretch, but it’d sure be nice if they would just go the freakin extra mile, and supply some additional documentation that doesn’t come from a third party when wiring some of the accessories.

What I know:
Im gonna set mine to “Launch“.
Im gonna set the launch RPM at 3k..( I don’t think the converter will let the engine slip beyond that, and i won’t be able to hold it with the brakes beyond that if it starts making power)

What I don’t know:
How much RPM before that
How much timing to cut
Whether i want just spark, or spark and fuel cut ( one bangs and pops a lot more, and a lot louder)

The Rotors are here. I can put them on, and put the thing back on the ground. ( which is a good thing in more ways than one) The problem with setting the two step in the garage is the likelihood that it’ll make waaay too much noise.
Kate will kill me.

Ill have to take it somewhere.
 
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a91what

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Ive been reading this morning. As usual, trying to find a simple fcking wiring diagram FROM THE MANUFACTURER of the ECU has proved to be less than easy. Every google search brings up some Miata or RX 7 goobers clutch switch wiring video, and all of these guys are enabling launch/flat shift in the setup.

I dont need no stinking flat shift in my setup.

From what i’ve been able to come up with is that the ECU wants a ground to enable the circuit. Based on that, i’m not gonna make this any harder than it has to be.

I was gonna tie in the signal from the brake light switch as a redundancy so that i could set up a couple of parameters to act as “ checks and balances”, i.e. When the brake is on, AND the TPS is over say 30% pushing the button enables the launch control circuit,......but in the software, launch control is either on/off, and tied to just one input. So.....I don’t need to try and convert the 12v coming from the brake light switch to gnd using a relay anymore.

If all the ECU needs then is a single gnd, then the momentary button by itself will do that. All i have to do is gnd one end of the switch, and wire the other end to the ecu. Pushing the button closes the circuit..the ECU gets its gnd.

The other “Lack of MFG supplied info” issue is How to setup the fcking thing in the software. Again you have to rely on some Youtube video to tell you where to set it. It’s not rocket science by no stretch, but it’d sure be nice if they would just go the freakin extra mile, and supply some additional documentation that doesn’t come from a third party when wiring some of the accessories.

What I know:
Im gonna set mine to “Launch“.
Im gonna set the launch RPM at 3k..( I don’t think the converter will let the engine slip beyond that, and i won’t be able to hold it with the brakes beyond that if it starts making power)

What I don’t know:
How much RPM before that
How much timing to cut
Whether i want just spark, or spark and fuel cut ( one bangs and pops a lot more, and a lot louder)

The Rotors are here. I can put them on, and put the thing back on the ground. ( which is a good thing in more ways than one) The problem with setting the two step in the garage is the likelihood that it’ll make waaay too much noise.
Kate will kill me.

Ill have to take it somewhere.
They sorta do...
section 15.11.1

cut spark only
soft limit 50-100 rpm

while on the rev limiter ignore the WB input, if it bogs on the hit then pull a few mS of fuel right there in the launch settings if it pops [intake pop] then add a few mS of fuel on the hit..

poofff your a rocket surgeon

I agree with the button.. now the only issue with not also using the brake switch as a second safety is that you may inadvertently trigger the input while driving, I know its unlikely but :poo: happens.. my suggestion [remember my main job has me building everything with safety redundancy] is to also place a rocker switch [next to or inconspicuously mounted] to interrupt the circuit while not in use... This is moot if the car has a VSS that can be used.. then we just ignore the input while driving [over say 10mph] as a safety. I know you dont have one so my looney suggestion stands
 

CarMichael Angelo

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You have got to see the Datalog on this one. 23 psi.

I’m at work right now, and I can’t get to it till later, but suffice it to say:

I will not have an issue with 60’ times.
I did not need to create the 2 step circuit.
I have to find a way to keep the car from pushing while foot braking.

All things considered it’s gonna be fast. How fast is ytd.
 
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MustangIIMatt

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You have got to see the Datalog on this one. 23 psi.

I’m at work right now, and I can’t get to it till later, but suffice it to say:

I will not have an issue with 60’ times.
I did not need to create the 2 step circuit.
I have to find a way to keep the car from pushing while foot braking.

All things considered it’s gonna be fast. How fast is ytd.
Nd9GcQ5zLaXocZV7p9mCp1gRpD7sgtLZT3wXdN_Hw&usqp=CAU.jpg
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Ok...I'm home.

A close up look at the datalog tells me that the Turbo is too small. (At least the turbine housing is too small) The engine makes its power at 5500 rpm Revving the engine to 7k RPM loses 3 psi.

I'm still learning with this thing....I was afraid to stand on the brake and put my foot on the floor, because it didn't seem to do anything when I half-assed tried to power brake the thing...

It just takes a different attitude.

"Don't make me beat your ass...cause I will..."
And when you get insolence....You just beat that ass.....

It makes boost while foot braking...It really doesn't like to go above 2500 RPM,..MOF I really gotta force the thing to go to 3,000 RPM.. BUt when I do....
20201119_171348.jpg

CYA!
 

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revhead347

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Are you sure that you're not then one turning 63 in two days?...
I'm just checking..
My disdain for things that are unneccesarily impossibly complicated turned 63 ten years ago. I am trying to get 3 bundles of really expensive, marked up, roofing shingles ordered right now, and no one will take my money.

Kurt
 

a91what

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Ok...I'm home.

A close up look at the datalog tells me that the Turbo is too small. (At least the turbine housing is too small) The engine makes its power at 5500 rpm Revving the engine to 7k RPM loses 3 psi.

I'm still learning with this thing....I was afraid to stand on the brake and put my foot on the floor, because it didn't seem to do anything when I half-assed tried to power brake the thing...

It just takes a different attitude.

"Don't make me beat your ass...cause I will..."
And when you get insolence....You just beat that ass.....

It makes boost while foot braking...It really doesn't like to go above 2500 RPM,..MOF I really gotta force the thing to go to 3,000 RPM.. BUt when I do....
20201119_171348.jpg

CYA!
yes... however you dont want to size the turbo too large and have boost lag issues either.. the 3psi loss is not a big deal... we simply tell the ecu to correct for the loss, it will increase the boost duty to the valve and done.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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yes... however you dont want to size the turbo too large and have boost lag issues either.. the 3psi loss is not a big deal... we simply tell the ecu to correct for the loss, it will increase the boost duty to the valve and done.
The turbo supplier thought that a .68 AR turbine housing might be just a tad too small. He said that he wanted me to get the screeching boost leak fixed, and see if it loses anything and where it happens across the RPM band. Suggesting that they may wanna swap the housing for a .81 AR instead.
I realize I give up one thing for another, and as a street car I gotta keep my eye on the prize. In truth It’s about as good as it’s gonna get before I start trading that away for more power,..but I may be able to trade away a little of that bottom end for the extra 1500 rpm, ( and the power that may be hiding there)
But where it is right now......pretty good though right?
 

a91what

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The turbo supplier thought that a .68 AR turbine housing might be just a tad too small. He said that he wanted me to get the screeching boost leak fixed, and see if it loses anything and where it happens across the RPM band. Suggesting that they may wanna swap the housing for a .81 AR instead.
I realize I give up one thing for another, and as a street car I gotta keep my eye on the prize. In truth It’s about as good as it’s gonna get before I start trading that away for more power,..but I may be able to trade away a little of that bottom end for the extra 1500 rpm, ( and the power that may be hiding there)
But where it is right now......pretty good though right?
I have to say it looks really good right now, boost starts to fall off right at 6k. The question is do you want to make a change? the turbo will "act" smaller and smaller the more we turn the boost up... I think by 25psi the boost will begin to drop at 5500rpm or sooner.. I can increase the boost duty after this RPM to compensate but you will hit a wall eventually as you chase power.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I have to say it looks really good right now, boost starts to fall off right at 6k. The question is do you want to make a change? the turbo will "act" smaller and smaller the more we turn the boost up... I think by 25psi the boost will begin to drop at 5500rpm or sooner.. I can increase the boost duty after this RPM to compensate but you will hit a wall eventually as you chase power.
And that’s what Work turbo told me as well. It gets harder and harder to jam more air into the engine with little gain in the big picture at my present build. ( Small cams, stock ports,...and wherever the fuel system will max out at) I spent 10k on the car last year between the engine and the trans...Lets see how fast it is on Sunday.

And let’s see if I know when to say when.
 

a91what

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well.... to help you with that.. here is a new tune. I setup closed loop boost control on this one, now it may need some tweaking as far as the sensitivity goes but should work as expected.. one more datalog please so I can tune the controller.
 

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revhead347

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yes... however you dont want to size the turbo too large and have boost lag issues either.. the 3psi loss is not a big deal... we simply tell the ecu to correct for the loss, it will increase the boost duty to the valve and done.
Speaking of out dated technology. Mike needs to commit to spending the money on a twin scroll turbocharger. A Borg-Warner 48x is going to fix the problem no matter how oversized it is. A tuning adjustment is not going to make up for a mechanical deficiency.

Kurt