Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

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#8,141
I cant wait to see that video Mike, I will say that after being 'in the passenger seat' watching the rpm fly by in the gears that it still has to pull well. Even uphill it didnt seem to have any issue, the fuel curve tells me it didnt loose much in the torque department down low either.
 

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#8,142
IMG_20180624_062230.jpg


How did you know? It IS the day we burn this MFer! Dinner's on about 6. You've got time to get here in your Orange John Deer.
 
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#8,144
Two things learned tonight from my drive by video....

#1. Sumitomo HTZ II tires do not like getting hot.
#2. The video accurately represents the car's power level..now that I've stood on it, I'm thinking its making what I've been saying all along...somewhere significantly south of 300.

It sounds good now ( except for that freakin squeak thing)

View: https://youtu.be/Vb37v0Zb6lA

It's spinning the tires by the time it comes past the camera...and that's because I got them hot ( see point #1.) it's fun, but it's not fast, but then again, maybe ive just become callus after having boost.
When it gets past the camera, you can see it's finally pulling its weight instead of just making noise. Compared to the " before" when I had ghost Steve riding in the front & I had the loud assed muffler, and the cold air intake tube wasn't attached, I believe that it might have been faster from the lack of restriction...but that is purely speculation.
 
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#8,151
a91what said:
Mike take that thing to a dyno and slap it on the rollers. Let's see what it really makes at the tire, last time I went the guy charged me $20 a pull.
Click to expand...
There’s a real good chance that that’ll happen this week end depending on when they can start. Several of the techs in the back are taking their cars to a local chassis dyno guy a few miles north of here. If they’ll do it around 8am start time, I may be able to get on the rollers first and be back at work by the time they open....
 
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#8,154
Nice CMA.

Its got the polyspheric headed in line six twang. Same as all those hot 265 Hemis and the methonol 250 X flo you heard in the burnout vids.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1jRMjaHtO4&list=LLTJhkAdJgosvq4T87ken2ew&index=53


It's nothing to see a 27 rwhp increase with proper dyno tuning. 275---.302 RWHP....That 26 to 33% manual gearbox loss is very common. Its possible that some early 265 Hemis might have made 370 hp in race trim. Unless you dyno tune, you never know what the fuel pump and ancillaries are taking off the peak rpm.

If the dyno is calibrated, there might be 380 flywheel horsepower in the well worked example above. Its probably J-U-S-T possible with the stock 40mm venturis in DCOE 45's and modern cam and head porting.
 
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#8,155
For the record,....just as soon as two BMW twins free up from a warranty engine, the Monster goes back to forced induction.
It may be a month, it may be a year....all I know for sure is that it will happen.

The twins on our 4.4L v8 are V band attached, and internally waste-gated. The "free" aspect, and the notion of getting a pair of water cooled, ball bearing turbos rated for an engine my size is the attraction, and the reason for the decision.

I won't change the ITB part of the equation though, I like that, and I wont change the glass top either...I'll keep the glass top on with some kind of strap system.
It also wont be a "this year" project despite my acquisition of the goods......The reconfig will probably be several months knowing me. The fact that BMW wastegates are vacuum actuated instead of the normal boost pressure actuated method, and the plumbing into the water system, and reinstalling my rear mounted cooling system will be the reason(s) for the time.

In the mean time,...this will be the summer of N/A.

It just seems that the engine runs restricted,...and like the new title says, I now have over 12" of throttle plate opening that has to breathe through a 3" hole.... That has an 18" long tube attached ,.....that has 3 90 degree bends,....that is capped by a conical filter.
I lay in bed wondering...........how can all those wide open throttle holes breathe independently when forced to get it all out of one 3" opening.
Now I know that all engines typically breathe through a 3" hole or less, and work just fine,....but when it comes to optimizing an ITB setup,..........are you negating that benefit by forcing them to breathe through a common opening?
( obviously, the simple answer to that would be to remove the airbox at the dyno,....but the dyno session was cancelled due to the operators vacation)
And my seat of the pants dyno will lie to me.
I've got some "free" money that will let me re-purchase a water meth system. It will be how I plan to cool and control detonation when its re-boosted, and I'm not afraid to integrate it into the N/a engine right now, for the sake of the potential weanie assed power gain I'll get from the meth. So,..I'll be buying that dude in the next day or so....wherever the price is best.

I have a BOV still, all I'll need will be a reconfig of a short cold side, and of course......figure out how to mount those turbos on the headers...(that I made turn up,....in anticipation of having to do exactly what I'm contemplating)

So,...Call me a flip flop if you want....Tell me I told ya so if you need to.....I'm glad I converted over nonetheless. I'll still have 1 of 1.
 
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#8,157
I thought I was in tanner's thread for just a moment...
Glad you are making this decision. Do you foresee any issues with the box holding boost pressure?
Joe
 
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#8,159
RangerJoe said:
I thought I was in tanner's thread for just a moment...
Glad you are making this decision. Do you foresee any issues with the box holding boost pressure?
Joe
Click to expand...
I don't know, the glass is tempered and is bedded in windshield ribbon. ( that super sticky black junk that you can't get off your fingers when removing your glass) I figure it'll hold by itself up to a certain boost pressure before I have to consider adding straps, but I'd do that before that would even be an issue. I'd hate to loose the work put into the see through box.

Upon reflection, there's potential boost leakage that'll occur around the base of each of the air horns of the air box where the thing sits on top of the ITBs .....but they sit so tightly, I have to almost jam the box on in the first place, so it won't be a huge deal I think.

It's all to be expected I guess,...the difference between me and Tanner is, my car actually get's driven before I change it, that's how you'll know.;)
 
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#8,160
CarMichael Angelo said:
I don't know, the glass is tempered and is bedded in windshield ribbon. ( that super sticky black junk that you can't get off your fingers when removing your glass) I figure it'll hold by itself up to a certain boost pressure before I have to consider adding straps, but I'd do that before that would even be an issue. I'd hate to loose the work put into the see through box.

Upon reflection, there's potential boost leakage that'll occur around the base of each of the air horns of the air box where the thing sits on top of the ITBs .....but they sit so tightly, I have to almost jam the box on in the first place, so it won't be a huge deal I think.
Click to expand...

I think the clear box is bad a$$! But, I've been following since the red car. So the last sentence made me laugh since I know how this works now. You'll get everything plumbed up and figured out with the twins. You'll get it on and running and post a video and we will all go DAMN that's awesome @CarMichael Angelo.

Then a few days go by with no posts. Then you post a picture of the intake all apart redoing it, because of the little leaks around the ITB's.

:nice:
 
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  • Agree
  • Haha
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