- Jul 7, 2005
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I know I don't post much on your thread, but watch it closely. All I can say for you is....
Yay!!!!!!!!! Banana dance...
Yay!!!!!!!!! Banana dance...
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Well, let's party. And by party, I mean crank up the boost. Let's see what that little pig can do when you put the spurs to it.
Maybe the Chinese sent that
inside your turbo as a big F U to the Tariffs???
Maybe the Chinese sent that
inside your turbo as a big F U to the Tariffs???
if I got nothing wrong with the engine, I have even less wrong now..
I installed the new filter and restarted the car...oil pressure reading 60 psi at idle. I shut it off, and installed the Camaro vacuum pump..( took all freakin day) I followed the example that was linked earlier in the thread. The way I've wired it, the vacuum pump only comes an when the engine is under boost. I ran a fused circuit directly off the back of the alternator to a 30 amp 4 pin relay. According to the guy who tested this pump, it'll pull a whole whopping 4" of vacuum at 12v, and 7" at 16v. So, at 13.8v I'll probably see 5 or so.
Better than nothing.
The line going to the pump has a tee in it now, and I've ran a 3/8 line with a one way valve installed in the middle. As soon as there is positive pressure in the air box, the valve gets blown closed, and suction reverts to the pump,..when the engine goes back to negative pressure, the pcv valve will allow engine vacuum to pull crankcase vapors through the oil water seperator.
The goofy seperator is working perfectly...wicking this much water out of the crankcase just in the hour or so run time since in
Ive installed it.
Tomorrow night, the wife finds out if she has won the companies annual awarded trip. If she has, I'm kinda obliged to go with her. This year, it's 9 days in Africa. The first week in November.
If she wins, that'll force me to cancel the "cruising the coast" thing in early October...if she doesn't, it's on.
I installed the new filter and restarted the car...oil pressure reading 60 psi at idle. I shut it off, and installed the Camaro vacuum pump..( took all freakin day) I followed the example that was linked earlier in the thread. The way I've wired it, the vacuum pump only comes an when the engine is under boost. I ran a fused circuit directly off the back of the alternator to a 30 amp 4 pin relay. According to the guy who tested this pump, it'll pull a whole whopping 4" of vacuum at 12v, and 7" at 16v. So, at 13.8v I'll probably see 5 or so.
Better than nothing.
The line going to the pump has a tee in it now, and I've ran a 3/8 line with a one way valve installed in the middle. As soon as there is positive pressure in the air box, the valve gets blown closed, and suction reverts to the pump,..when the engine goes back to negative pressure, the pcv valve will allow engine vacuum to pull crankcase vapors through the oil water seperator.
The goofy seperator is working perfectly...wicking this much water out of the crankcase just in the hour or so run time since in
Ive installed it.
Tomorrow night, the wife finds out if she has won the companies annual awarded trip. If she has, I'm kinda obliged to go with her. This year, it's 9 days in Africa. The first week in November.
If she wins, that'll force me to cancel the "cruising the coast" thing in early October...if she doesn't, it's on.
There's a thought...it is a sort of distillery process after all...Maybe I'll send you a batch and you can try it out.
Il call it Old Monster 78.
Today, I'm gonna re-instate the rear radiators that used to be dedicated to cooling the water for the A2W intercooler. Only this time they're gonna add supplemental cooling when I turn on the AC. The hoses are hanging on a hook, all I gotta do is resecure them to the floor, figure a way to tie them into the existing cooling system hoses, and incorporate some sort of dual heater control valve thingy so that water can be turned off to those hoses.
There are cable operated heater control valves out there, but I think that they only restrict water movement, as opposed to completely shutting it off. And I wanna be able to completely shut the water flow off. The reason for that is these hoses run under the car,...if I was to pick up a piece of road debris that cuts the line, I want to be able to control the water loss so I'm not stranded alongside of some deserted stretch of Alabama highway.
I also need to incorporate the fidle valve so that there is an increased idle speed when running that compressor,...the engine is already running slow enough without adding that additional drag...I wonder if I can just splice 12v into the wire running out to the valve without causing any unwanted side effects by adding 12v to the wire that is tied back to my ecu?
That circuit closes after the engine hits 140 degrees, and it's not like I'll be running the AC on this thing as soon as I cold start it.
There are cable operated heater control valves out there, but I think that they only restrict water movement, as opposed to completely shutting it off. And I wanna be able to completely shut the water flow off. The reason for that is these hoses run under the car,...if I was to pick up a piece of road debris that cuts the line, I want to be able to control the water loss so I'm not stranded alongside of some deserted stretch of Alabama highway.
I also need to incorporate the fidle valve so that there is an increased idle speed when running that compressor,...the engine is already running slow enough without adding that additional drag...I wonder if I can just splice 12v into the wire running out to the valve without causing any unwanted side effects by adding 12v to the wire that is tied back to my ecu?
That circuit closes after the engine hits 140 degrees, and it's not like I'll be running the AC on this thing as soon as I cold start it.
Mike, I've had one question that's been bothering me since the sale ad came about...
Assuming the thing sold, what would you do with yourself? Your personality wouldn't allow for idleness and an empty garage.
Assuming the thing sold, what would you do with yourself? Your personality wouldn't allow for idleness and an empty garage.
You could, that would be the easiest way to make it happen. Unless you want to do it in the software but that will require another input added to the MS.... you should buy the MS3 card and plug it in it's a direct upgrade and it will open up huge possibilities.... including sequential injection. Not sure how you have it wired but I assume this would cause another re-wire on your end. Then we have all kinds ofToday, I'm gonna re-instate the rear radiators that used to be dedicated to cooling the water for the A2W intercooler. Only this time they're gonna add supplemental cooling when I turn on the AC. The hoses are hanging on a hook, all I gotta do is resecure them to the floor, figure a way to tie them into the existing cooling system hoses, and incorporate some sort of dual heater control valve thingy so that water can be turned off to those hoses.
There are cable operated heater control valves out there, but I think that they only restrict water movement, as opposed to completely shutting it off. And I wanna be able to completely shut the water flow off. The reason for that is these hoses run under the car,...if I was to pick up a piece of road debris that cuts the line, I want to be able to control the water loss so I'm not stranded alongside of some deserted stretch of Alabama highway.
I also need to incorporate the fidle valve so that there is an increased idle speed when running that compressor,...the engine is already running slow enough without adding that additional drag...I wonder if I can just splice 12v into the wire running out to the valve without causing any unwanted side effects by adding 12v to the wire that is tied back to my ecu?
to work with; boost by gear, fan control, AC control, wmeth pwm outputs..... The MS2 has alot of this stuff but on the MS3 the settings and functions are more refined and they simply work better....
I'm gonna look into the upgrade today, I just need to study what it's gonna take, if it'll work with the Relay board, and how much of a program change it involves.You could, that would be the easiest way to make it happen. Unless you want to do it in the software but that will require another input added to the MS.... you should buy the MS3 card and plug it in it's a direct upgrade and it will open up huge possibilities.... including sequential injection. Not sure how you have it wired but I assume this would cause another re-wire on your end. Then we have all kinds of
The MS2 has alot of this stuff but on the MS3 the settings and functions are more refined and they simply work better....
There's always gonna be something in the garage,...whether I'm changing oil on a old BMW, or the monster, ill find something to do.
my 66 t-bird has a vacuum operated heater hose valve that shuts off completely and i believe the earlier 65/64/63 had a cable operated valve.Today, I'm gonna re-instate the rear radiators that used to be dedicated to cooling the water for the A2W intercooler. Only this time they're gonna add supplemental cooling when I turn on the AC. The hoses are hanging on a hook, all I gotta do is resecure them to the floor, figure a way to tie them into the existing cooling system hoses, and incorporate some sort of dual heater control valve thingy so that water can be turned off to those hoses.
There are cable operated heater control valves out there, but I think that they only restrict water movement, as opposed to completely shutting it off. And I wanna be able to completely shut the water flow off. The reason for that is these hoses run under the car,...if I was to pick up a piece of road debris that cuts the line, I want to be able to control the water loss so I'm not stranded alongside of some deserted stretch of Alabama highway.
I also need to incorporate the fidle valve so that there is an increased idle speed when running that compressor,...the engine is already running slow enough without adding that additional drag...I wonder if I can just splice 12v into the wire running out to the valve without causing any unwanted side effects by adding 12v to the wire that is tied back to my ecu?
stangboy
Founding Member
The Dukes of Hazard Moonshine Haul, yeehooo.
He'd buy a hundred ounces of JB Weld and some Futura hose
And distill it in a Jar under the State Troppers nose.....
Deda deda deda ddaaa....
He'd buy a hundred ounces of JB Weld and some Futura hose
And distill it in a Jar under the State Troppers nose.....
Deda deda deda ddaaa....
The tally board for today's battle:
Monster 1.
Me 0.
I decided that I would make my life even more complicated by running coolant under the floor via two -12 hoses, and into the two linked radiators that are installed behind the little Japanese Kid. I was able to find a fitting that I could unscrew a hose off of, and dedicate that fitting as a supply source for the rear radiators, the hose that used to go to that fitting only needs a union so that I could couple the return hose back to it.
That was the easy part.
I cussed for about an hour while I resecured the hoses to the 10-24 screws that were still hanging out of the bottom of the floor.
How I did that the first time w/o blowing a blood vessel in my brain is beyond me, but this time I got real close to doing that. The stupid screws spun while I tried to tighten the nut down. 4 of them eventually tightened, the 5th one required that I remove the carpet, cut a small hole in the dyna mat that was on top of the screw so I could get a screw driver on it, and finally tighten that btch down.
Once I finally get every thing buttoned up...I fill the car back up with anti-freeze, and run the pump in TS to suck the water through the lines..
I check for leaks......none.
I start the car and let it come up to temp,..it's now apparent to me that I need an additional fidle valve to let more air into the engine to sufficiently allow it to run fast enough to support the additional drag the AC compressor adds.
( I know this because I pulled the line off of my BOV,..and the increase in RPM is just right)
But not yet....I got a plan for that.
The engine slowly creeps up to temp,...I'm waiting for it to get to 190 so the t stat will open, and water will move through the whole system...No sooner does it do that however, and the now 190+ degree water moves to the rear radiators.
And..
The 8 pound radiator caps opened like check valves, and just started pissing green pee straight out of their respective overflow tubes.
And both radiators are sealed inside an aluminum shroud...
How much more perfect could this get?
Now I gotta do the impossible...I gotta find two tiny high pressure caps for radiators that don't belong to any particular car brand from .................Auto Zone.
I don't even try...I go straight to O'Reilly's ....at least they'll try to source it based on size instead of application. Amazingly she finds several,...an 11, a 16, and a 20 psi rated unit...but she only has one of any of them. I take the one, Google the part number, see that AZ has it under their Duralast brand, and head that way...but stop off at the Advance AP store in between.
A waste of time.
I have to go to a different store to get the other unit, but I get it.
But by the time I get back, its 5 pm,...and I'm done. I got no desire to play in the wet anti-freeze that's now everywhere,..so I throw a bunch of rags on the floor, take a couple of pics,...put my dinner in the oven to cook,...and sit down here and write this.
I had to drill out about a dozen rivets, and remove the center section to be able to get to both radiator caps.
I got what I need now,...I have both caps, and access to them...what I don't have anymore is a dedicated circuit to turn the fans on...I used to have two wires back there to run the old intercooler pump, and the fans, but now I got a water meth system back there that needed both wires, and had to have a third wire ran for the warning light.
So,.i gotta pull another through there and hook it back up to one of the switches currently in the dash.
But like I said before,...not just yet...I gotta plan for that too.
This all started early this morning, with me driving to Harbor Freight to finally purchase a new vise. I have been using the drill press vise for everything since I got here to this house,..and today I decided to change that.
I believe this'll do pig,...this'll do.
So,...what's the plan?
Firstly, I'm not going to Africa. ( yea). She didn't win. Besides, Not on my bucket list, and too many days gone..
That brings me back around then to Cruisin the coast in October. And I gotta get ready.
I'm buying the Ms3/ms3x stuff to upgrade my ecu. It should give me everything I'll need to be able to seperate, and control the vacuum pump, turn on the cooling fans behind the LJK, change out the fidle valve and swap in an actual IAC valve, consider buying a different valve body for my transmission so I can convert it back to full electronic control, and have the ecu do that.
Then Tie my speed sensor into the ecu so that speed and gear changes can be part of the datalog
That will store on a sd card.
I'm hoping that I'm not opening up a monster can of worms with that, but the ecu upgrade is winter time stuff,...I'm just buying it tonight.
Monster 1.
Me 0.
I decided that I would make my life even more complicated by running coolant under the floor via two -12 hoses, and into the two linked radiators that are installed behind the little Japanese Kid. I was able to find a fitting that I could unscrew a hose off of, and dedicate that fitting as a supply source for the rear radiators, the hose that used to go to that fitting only needs a union so that I could couple the return hose back to it.
That was the easy part.
I cussed for about an hour while I resecured the hoses to the 10-24 screws that were still hanging out of the bottom of the floor.
How I did that the first time w/o blowing a blood vessel in my brain is beyond me, but this time I got real close to doing that. The stupid screws spun while I tried to tighten the nut down. 4 of them eventually tightened, the 5th one required that I remove the carpet, cut a small hole in the dyna mat that was on top of the screw so I could get a screw driver on it, and finally tighten that btch down.
Once I finally get every thing buttoned up...I fill the car back up with anti-freeze, and run the pump in TS to suck the water through the lines..
I check for leaks......none.
I start the car and let it come up to temp,..it's now apparent to me that I need an additional fidle valve to let more air into the engine to sufficiently allow it to run fast enough to support the additional drag the AC compressor adds.
( I know this because I pulled the line off of my BOV,..and the increase in RPM is just right)
But not yet....I got a plan for that.
The engine slowly creeps up to temp,...I'm waiting for it to get to 190 so the t stat will open, and water will move through the whole system...No sooner does it do that however, and the now 190+ degree water moves to the rear radiators.
And..
The 8 pound radiator caps opened like check valves, and just started pissing green pee straight out of their respective overflow tubes.
And both radiators are sealed inside an aluminum shroud...
How much more perfect could this get?
Now I gotta do the impossible...I gotta find two tiny high pressure caps for radiators that don't belong to any particular car brand from .................Auto Zone.
I don't even try...I go straight to O'Reilly's ....at least they'll try to source it based on size instead of application. Amazingly she finds several,...an 11, a 16, and a 20 psi rated unit...but she only has one of any of them. I take the one, Google the part number, see that AZ has it under their Duralast brand, and head that way...but stop off at the Advance AP store in between.
A waste of time.
I have to go to a different store to get the other unit, but I get it.
But by the time I get back, its 5 pm,...and I'm done. I got no desire to play in the wet anti-freeze that's now everywhere,..so I throw a bunch of rags on the floor, take a couple of pics,...put my dinner in the oven to cook,...and sit down here and write this.
I had to drill out about a dozen rivets, and remove the center section to be able to get to both radiator caps.
I got what I need now,...I have both caps, and access to them...what I don't have anymore is a dedicated circuit to turn the fans on...I used to have two wires back there to run the old intercooler pump, and the fans, but now I got a water meth system back there that needed both wires, and had to have a third wire ran for the warning light.
So,.i gotta pull another through there and hook it back up to one of the switches currently in the dash.
But like I said before,...not just yet...I gotta plan for that too.
This all started early this morning, with me driving to Harbor Freight to finally purchase a new vise. I have been using the drill press vise for everything since I got here to this house,..and today I decided to change that.
I believe this'll do pig,...this'll do.
So,...what's the plan?
Firstly, I'm not going to Africa. ( yea). She didn't win. Besides, Not on my bucket list, and too many days gone..
That brings me back around then to Cruisin the coast in October. And I gotta get ready.
I'm buying the Ms3/ms3x stuff to upgrade my ecu. It should give me everything I'll need to be able to seperate, and control the vacuum pump, turn on the cooling fans behind the LJK, change out the fidle valve and swap in an actual IAC valve, consider buying a different valve body for my transmission so I can convert it back to full electronic control, and have the ecu do that.
Then Tie my speed sensor into the ecu so that speed and gear changes can be part of the datalog
That will store on a sd card.
I'm hoping that I'm not opening up a monster can of worms with that, but the ecu upgrade is winter time stuff,...I'm just buying it tonight.
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