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It is likely in a much different area of the fuel map. read--- pulling less vacuum

you will transfer over into alpha-n at around 5% tps at idle and at about 20% above 2500 rpm. basically above these percentages the map sensor will see WOT this is why the ITB tune uses a blended table, map at idle/ cruise and switches to alpha-n under acceleration.

do me a favor and send me a log of the car running even if it is only for 30 seconds
I’ll do that when I get home at 530
 
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Ahhh this is wonderful.... let me do a bit of adjusting to even things out for you.

also we will need to lower that idle rpm
Look at how dead steady the VE table was at that RPM....It never Idled like that before. I realize that this isn't exactly "idle speed" per se', but that is pretty sweet.
The FIDLE valve is open during WUE,...IDK how much RPM it's adding this time, but I'll disconnect the controlled vacuum leak next test to see how much lower it's gonna idle after the FIDLE valve closes.
And as a foot note,....It never started on the first revolution before. I waited till the O2 sensor heated up first, then turned the key. It fired immediately.
 
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Now that I have a significant head start on the gauge purchase, It opened up my options w/ regard to what I could justify financially.
It seemed that every cheaper set from every vendor from Cal Custom, (the set I pictured this morning) Autometer, and Stewart Warner had all been "done before".
I had set a budget max of 550.00, and didn't even want to spend that..
Then this morning I made the call to Summit, and 400.00 dropped in my lap. Then I got a call from a co-worker who wanted to meet me to settle up on a spiff that we had to split on one of my earlier car sales. (another 200.00 I didn't expect)
That means that I now have 600.00 to play with before I actually contribute any out of my checking account...
I believe these are just the ticket:
1526515290584.png

I freakin LOVE these!! Every one of them completely configurable. The speedo, the tach, and the fuel level gauge have dip switches that allow me to change things w/o having to adapt anything on the gauges (i.e. converting from 6 cylinder to 8, or from one ignition system, to another) They have a 5 year warranty on parts and labor...(which is perfect for me) Led lighting....all 270 degree sweeps.....perfection salad.

It will mean that I'll have to pony up, and pay 79.95,.....but I think they're worth it.
 
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Well, they're ordered. Won't be here till mid week next week. That'll leave me some time to focus on getting it running, or conversely, it'll leave me time to fab up the modification to Winkin to allow for the new gauges. In reality, as long as TS works. And I have a mechanical oil pressure ga. hooked up ( I do), I don't need the gauges to get it running.
 
This is all so cool Mike, after all the crap of almost bringing out the towel guy concerning your throttle bodies. I'm happy for you that you got it running so "easily"?

I like the gauges too. I really prefer traditional appearing gauges myself. I'm kind of interested in seeing how you fit them in.
 
IIRC didn't you do a gauge swap on the Red car too shortly after the build? Glad it runs! Be interesting to see how the tunning ends up.
Good memory. I had a similar gauge assortment made by a company called Nordskog. And it was exactly the same deal. I bought the gauges for the Studebaker street rod that I was building (that I bought in like 2008-2009) I sold the Studebaker and bought the red car in 2010, and the red car didn't see life until 2012. When the red car came to life, it was similar inaccuracies, but it was the tach that read way wrong. Nordskog gauges had a 3 year warranty, but the company had went out of business by the time I started complaining about them to Summit. They gave me the exact same full refund price against the purchase of something different. (Couldn't buy Nordskog after all) That's when I bought the Stupid expensive Autometer set (IIRC, the total came to 1200.00)

When building the Monster, I told Summit about the Nordskog debacle when I bought the current set, and told them that I hoped that they had solved their issues, because to me, the gauges looked exactly the same.
They assured me that they had sourced an American manufacturer for these gauges, and up to the time of my purchase had no complaints.......

(Evidently, nobody cared about the tach reading about 100 RPM off, the water temp being 10 degrees different from the ECU, the fuel level gauge being completely unreadable, and an oil pressure gauge that would just arbitrarily decide to show you 0 psi )

Despite Iowa Nick's disdain for these gauges I like them. I wish the fuel level was reliable, and that the oil press hadn't decided to take a sht. They solved my integration problem nicely.
The analog gauges will be a challenge to make work using the old gauge pod, but I'll have to make due. I have an Idea on what I want to do,..I just need to be able to do it w/o ruining the beautifully covered housing. They are 1/2 as expensive as the Autometer pieces, and have a 5 year warranty. (hopefully they'll stay in business.)
 
Mike sorry it took so long, here is the tune so you can datalog for me again. I removed fuel globally by reducing the req fuel. I will need feedback on how it starts
Thanks, I don't get off till late tonight, so I doubt that I'll be able to do anything with it till Sunday. How much fuel did you remove anyway? Was the req fuel based on 44 lb hr injectors originally? And isn't that computation based on projected horsepower? (That would come way down now that it's N/A obviously)
 
Thanks, I don't get off till late tonight, so I doubt that I'll be able to do anything with it till Sunday. How much fuel did you remove anyway? Was the req fuel based on 44 lb hr injectors originally? And isn't that computation based on projected horsepower? (That would come way down now that it's N/A obviously)
I removed what should be 30%.
The req fuel is based on injector size but in reality it is just a base fuel multiplier in the code. For instance if you are getting really low ve numbers you can halve the req fuel number and double the VE table values.
 
Nice progress! I am late to the shindig or I would have said check out Speedhut gauges. They are electronic, daisy chain their power together, completely configurable as far as color, pointer, lighting, even print a logo on them and very shallow making it easy to mount them. I recently bought a Holley Digital Dash, but I think I am going to add some Speedhut Electronic gauges in case this expensive boondoggle ever wants to take a :poo: when I am driving it. (maybe I'll get done some year)
 
Nice progress! I am late to the shindig or I would have said check out Speedhut gauges. They are electronic, daisy chain their power together, completely configurable as far as color, pointer, lighting, even print a logo on them and very shallow making it easy to mount them. I recently bought a Holley Digital Dash, but I think I am going to add some Speedhut Electronic gauges in case this expensive boondoggle ever wants to take a :poo: when I am driving it. (maybe I'll get done some year)

Had to be available at Summit. No reason to look elsewhere. I'll like these sure enough...I just hope I can make them work in the space I have allocated.
 
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