Build Thread 1978 Fairmont: The G monster

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
8,831
1,477
214
41
Acworth, GA
My son is already private / instrument rated. He’s now maybe 3/4 way through commercial. Would you say his timing is right?
The timing couldn't be better, the shortage is really severe. There are a lot of factors involved, most notably money. Most people simply can't borrow enough money to keep up with today's training rates. Then there is the 1500 hours of experience required that passed Congress a few years ago. The jobs that one can build that kind of experience with simply don't exist anymore. Every town has a blood lab now, so there is no flying blood around at night; the banks don't fly checks, pipelines are now monitored via Satellite, etc. I know a few jobs that one can get to build experience, but they are hard and dangerous. I do have a lot of connections, so please don't hesitate to ask questions. Probably best to move it to PM though, as to not gum up Mike's build thread.

Kurt
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors(?)


StangNet created a new car social app called knowmoto! Add your Mustang or post a photo in the knowmoto app and enter for a chance at a $100 gift card from LMR. Click the LMR Logo for more about the knowmoto Mega Thread!

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,321
8,764
234
63
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
Look at me.…..Groveling.

I have the new mount plate just about finished. Between working an hour in the morning before going in to sit and do nothing for 8 hours, and coming home for a 1-1/2 hour lunch, I’ve managed to get it close enough to be able to mount it today.
Made out of not one, but three pieces of 1/8” plate, the flimsy firewall will no longer need the brace I made earlier in the week. ( see what I did there @droopie85gt ?..I put one of your suggestions into place)

If it turns out that it still does, I should still be able to use it,…but it’ll have to be “ modified“ to fit now that the firewall mount plate is so thick.

Since I’m extending the pushrod mount leg 1/2” longer than it presently is, ( going from 1-5/8 c to c, to 2-1/8”) that will impact the pushrod intersect angle in a bad way. So, I built some down angle into the firewall mount plate. That should drop the mount point enough to allow for less pushrod angle when it moves through its arc.


I hope to hell this works.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,321
8,764
234
63
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
It didn’t. :nonono:

The target goal for a clutch pedal ratio is 6:1. In theory, if the clutch pedal moves 6”, the pivot arm moves 1”.
To accomplish that, you need to measure from the center of the pivot point, to the center of the pedal pad.
once you have that number (12”), You simply take that number, and since it’s double length on the clutch pedal,…you gotta double the length of the actuator lever.

So,….12 divided by 2 equals 6….1 multiplied by 2 equals 2.

The clutch lever is 12“,..the actuator lever is 2”.

Now keep in mind that the master cylinder piston has to move a minimum of 1” to even have a prayer of working right.

The issue at hand is that my clutch pedal only moves about 5” before it hits the floor…and that lever…….only moves about 3/4” because of it.

The bottom line….The clutch still won’t disengage.

So…

Redo #3.

This time,..I gotta lower the MC..
This time I gotta build the firewall plate out of at least 1/4” plate. ( cause the firewall is a disaster).
This time the actuator lever is gonna be 2-3/4” long c2c, with additional hole drilled at 2-1/2”, and 2-1/4”.

The problem is that I don’t know when I’ll have the next chance to make that time, this time,.:shrug:
 
Last edited:
  • Sad
Reactions: 1 user

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,321
8,764
234
63
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
Hooo boy! You should see my poor firewall….( But you won’t,……because I don’t post OMG photos)
I purchased a new 1-3/8” hole saw at HD this morning, and put it into use at lunch today…I now have a 1.5” wide oblong hole that is about 3-1/2” long running vertically to the left of the PBB…

It is one ghastly looking thing.

I also have a piece of 1/4” plate that will get bolted to the firewall over the top of that hole. with a new, lowered mount hole cut through that plate courtesy of my newly purchased hole saw blade…All done before lunch today…

The question is….will I be able to comfortably push the clutch pedal with a 2-3/4“ long actuator leg, when it supposed to be 2”?
The other question is…
How tired am I of fckin with this?
And the other, other question is,….If it works, and the pedal is a little heavier than It was before,..do I give a rats red bunion hole?
 
  • Like
  • Ah yes, I see.  I see.
Reactions: 5 users

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,321
8,764
234
63
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
Decisions, Decisions.

Tomorrow, I have to make the firewall plate.
I can make it fit inside the factory reinforced area, where that’ll leave a very narrow margin along one edge, or I can extend the plate past that to alleviate that. Doing it the latter way requires that i cut a piece of 1/8 plate to sit inside the margins of the factory reinforcement because there is a raised border along the inside edge that I’d have to get past so that the thicker plate will sit flush against the firewall.
image.jpg

*Pure butchery…what can I say though..Try cutting that hole with everything in place on your car.
image.jpg

More ugly…This is what’s left of the actuator arm, now that i’ve cut it. There is very little remaining of that lever, and it’s only 3/16” bar. The “rod” that goes from the clutch pedal to this lever is only mild steel round 1/2” hot rolled bar like what you get from HD. It rides on two bushings that are on both ends of the larger tube that is welded to that frame.

Two things here..

One, I want to redo the actuator end and just put a new thicker one piece lever cut to the right length and drilled in two locations so as to give me the flexibility to change the length of the mount point..( like one at 2.25”, and at 2.5”, and 2.75” respectively). Problem is, that the bigger tube is full of grease to help lubricate, and support that 1/2” bar that runs through it.
* And welding a new lever onto that shaft that will get stupid hot that is surrounded by grease…..well,..you get the picture.

Two,..while it seems strong enough with regard to twist resistance when I press on the clutch pedal,..the bar is only 1/2”, and it’s not perfectly round like what you’d expect a shaft would be,..( machining tolerances, and the process by which it was formed) and on top of that, it’s not exactly 1/2” diameter. ( hence the decision to pump the outer tube full of grease) There is the slightest amount of slop, albeit not really enough to worry about..But as i use it,..I’d expect that slop will get sloppier..

So…When i went to the Metal Supermarket to get the plate, I Found a cold rolled 5/8” bar shaft..much more round and smooth, and a larger piece of DOM tubing that that shaft slides fairly tightly into. I have that stuff too.
It would never twist, and would be supported along the full length of the outer DOM tubing, not just at the two ends like it is now.

But I’d have to redo that too…which means cutting that apart to re-do as well. I‘d end up spending the day tomorrow just redoing what is already done.
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: 4 users