Build Thread 1978 Fairmont: This is why I could never have been a mechanic.

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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Well....I shoulda said that the car you’re having them appraise should be something they want...
Very true. Nobody wants family cars anymore. They all want an SUV that is slower, harder to park, gets worse gas mileage, and has less trunk space.

Looking at your truck options though, you would have :poo: your pants at what I basically just gave away just a few months ago. I sold it to my barber. Maybe he would take $6k for it.

Kurt
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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I bought the 94 F 150.

It’s “average”

It’s gotta rear main seal leak that’s gotta be dealt with. Fixing that saved me another 450.00 in the total price.
I paid 6500. For this truck in the end.

It’ll get the same gas mileage as the Titan it appears..it won’t have the safety features, the tech features, or the convenience features the Titan had,..... but when compared to the Titan
This truck won’t have a payment. It’ll still let me lug sht around, it’ll still pull the monster should I decide to buy a trailer as well.

It ain’t as pretty, and it don’t have four doors.

But it’s mine. Completely.

Oh wait .....:banana:
 
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95BlueStallion

Drop into my dm’s gurrrrrl
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I loved my 1990 F250, but you know how it is here in Iowa. Winter kills all old vehicles. It went to a home where it’s getting built engine, lift kit and repaint. Exactly what I wanted to do with it, but I need a year round driver. Don’t want to fall into that category of “multiple unfinished projects” guy.
 
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Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
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I bought the 94 F 150.

It’s “average”

It’s gotta rear main seal leak that’s gotta be dealt with. Fixing that saved me another 450.00 in the total price.
I paid 6500. For this truck in the end.

It’ll get the same gas mileage as the Titan it appears..it won’t have the safety features, the tech features, or the convenience features the Titan had,..... but when compared to the Titan
This truck won’t have a payment. It’ll still let me lug sht around, it’ll still pull the monster should I decide to buy a trailer as well.

It ain’t as pretty, and it don’t have four doors.

But it’s mine. Completely.

Oh wait .....:banana:
It has a rear main seal leak that has to be dealt with.
It isn't as pretty and it doesn't have four doors.

You better watch out as the grammar police officer is going to......oh wait, nevermind....
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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And now we have the makings for a manually shifted transmission
25C858BC-07DA-4B21-9986-5155008A0B3B.jpeg

D4E26F10-0D49-4D93-B128-2088ADE59B98.jpeg
As I expected, this was a sonofabitch. This isn’t a stock fox pedal assembly. The clutch pedal is homemade, and has a shaft that operates a push lever on the opposite side that moves in the same direction as the pedal ( unlike the stock mustang quadrant/ cable operated system)You are supposed to try to achieve a 6:1 pedal ratio, which means that the master cylinder intersect point is about 2” from the pedal pivot point. Mine is actually closer than that, more like 1.75”.
While that’ll make the clutch disengagement super easy, the issue is it might not travel enough to move enough fluid to disengage the clutch.
(Which if things go like they always go with me, will likely be the case) After which I’ll have a full on conniption fit, because the only way to know that is to start it and run it through the gears. And that requires that I put it back together.......effectively burying all of that crap under the mountain of madness under the dash.
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Why don't you just hook up the slave cylinder on a line without installing it, and see if it moves it full swing?

Kurt
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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Why don't you just hook up the slave cylinder on a line without installing it, and see if it moves it full swing?

Kurt
Well... I could do that. I have the t/o bearing, I have the line..I don’t know if the bearing needs pressure against it from the clutch diaphragm, or if the thing is already “ at rest”. I also don’t know if w/o that pressure it wouldn’t just move the full travel, and once it has to move the clutch it won’t.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Well... I could do that. I have the t/o bearing, I have the line..I don’t know if the bearing needs pressure against it from the clutch diaphragm, or if the thing is already “ at rest”. I also don’t know if w/o that pressure it wouldn’t just move the full travel, and once it has to move the clutch it won’t.

Pretty sure you could set up some sort of test. Get some specs of the pressure it's supposed to put out or something.

Kurt
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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And now we have the makings for a manually shifted transmission
25C858BC-07DA-4B21-9986-5155008A0B3B.jpeg

D4E26F10-0D49-4D93-B128-2088ADE59B98.jpeg
As I expected, this was a sonofabitch. This isn’t a stock fox pedal assembly. The clutch pedal is homemade, and has a shaft that operates a push lever on the opposite side that moves in the same direction as the pedal ( unlike the stock mustang quadrant/ cable operated system)You are supposed to try to achieve a 6:1 pedal ratio, which means that the master cylinder intersect point is about 2” from the pedal pivot point. Mine is actually closer than that, more like 1.75”.
While that’ll make the clutch disengagement super easy, the issue is it might not travel enough to move enough fluid to disengage the clutch.
(Which if things go like they always go with me, will likely be the case) After which I’ll have a full on conniption fit, because the only way to know that is to start it and run it through the gears. And that requires that I put it back together.......effectively burying all of that crap under the mountain of madness under the dash.
Much respect for how you just figure sht out, and make it happen! Definitely enjoy watching this car “evolve”.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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I went down this morning and bent up a recirculating line so I could “bench bleed” the M/C.
That allowed me to measure the movement of the MC pushrod. And that checked out OK. I’m confident that it’ll move enough fluid.
After that, I decided to check the thing under pressure, so I capped the outlet,and pressed down on the pedal.
It was weird to say the least. So I removed the thing and put the lever end in a vise to lock it in place, and pushed the clutch pedal.....

The fcking thing is flexing like mad. I guess my decision to use 3/8” threaded rod as an inner shaft, that was forced through a piece of 1/2 steel tubing as a “ sleeve” for the bushings to ride on is a fail.

V2.0 will be a piece of 1/2” solid bar stock that I’ll replace the 3/8” threaded rod with the 1/2” steel tubing sleeve “ dumb-assed idea” with.
The good thing that has come out of this is that I know my pedal will properly actuate the master cylinder, and I was able to tell that the pedal was flexing before going any further. The 1/2” bar that I’ll put in next has to work, or I’ll be faced with a total redo, as the bushings that are in the outer tubing won’t go any bigger.
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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Awesome to hear you were able to find the weak spots before putting it back together. Measure 10 times and cut once I guess. As for the bleeding, I highly recommend spending the money on a motive brake bleeder. You can skip the bench bleed. Clutch are a bitch, and you usually have to at least bottle bleed them. You won't regret buying this tool.


Kurt
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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The 1/2” shaft was way better. No discern able twist given the same amount of force as before. The only thing now is that the solid bar isn’t quite .0500”, and there is a little slop there now. I think i’m going to weld a fitting that will let me put a grease zerk there, and pump that thing full of grease so that the shaft will ride on that film for whatever difference that’ll make.

I have one hell of a hectic day off tomorrow.

At 9am, i gotta have the Titan at the Carvana drop off location downtown. They are supposed to electronically send the 5500.00 to my checking account, and that is supposed to be instant. After they take the truck, they’re supposed to bring me back home.

Lets just assume it works that way.

The 94 F150 is sitting on a lot 49 miles from my house. The owner said that he would consider picking me up, and taking me out there to exchange monies, title, and possession of the new/old truck.

If...that works like im describing, my best hope is that I’ll be back home sometime around 1.

In the new/old truck.

This Saturday, is the day i’m supposed to have my rear end to the mechanic that will swap out the gears for me at BMW..and that means, when I get home, i’ll have to drain, and drop the rear out of the car, cause i won’t have time to do it after that, and if i don’t get it to him this weekend, it’ll have to wait a couple more weeks for him to have a free Saturday to work on it.

I think that’ll kill the rest of the day.

The clutch has been finished, paid for, and ready to pick up at Spec for over a week now, but Spec is about 30 miles from my house, and since i still have the For a Lady installed currently, it seems like having that part in my possession isn’t such a big deal right now. I was thinking that maybe I’d have time after dropping the rear to go pick that up,...but in reality, that isn’t even gonna be viable.

All of that is predicated on certain pieces falling into the right place, at the right time.

In the back of my head, i’m thinking that the money transfer isn’t gonna be as instant as they are saying, and my bank is gonna slow that down. That’ll leave me with no car to get to my credit union to take out a short term sig loan, and require that I call up Enterprise to rent a car to get there. If THAT is the scenario, it’ll be after noon, before i even get to a point where i can think about picking the truck up...and 50 miles one way is an hour, and 50 miles back home is another..

The whole day could be shot to hell just trying to get that truck squared away.

And I still gotta get the rear end dropped.
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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I bought the 94 F 150.

It’s “average”

It’s gotta rear main seal leak that’s gotta be dealt with. Fixing that saved me another 450.00 in the total price.
I paid 6500. For this truck in the end.

It’ll get the same gas mileage as the Titan it appears..it won’t have the safety features, the tech features, or the convenience features the Titan had,..... but when compared to the Titan
This truck won’t have a payment. It’ll still let me lug sht around, it’ll still pull the monster should I decide to buy a trailer as well.

It ain’t as pretty, and it don’t have four doors.

But it’s mine. Completely.

Oh wait .....:banana:
I beg to differ on this one. That truck is far prettier than anything on the market right now. Trucks these days are far too ostentatious.
 
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bird_dog0347

still married haven't seen testicles in years
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Don't you have Uber or Lyft out there? They're convenient when you just have to get from one place to another. No rental to return, just a one way trip.
Very likely he does, but it could be a scenario where you put in for a pickup and the nearest driver who can get you will take 30 minutes to get to you. Happens all the time where I live in the suburbs, but if I drive 20 miles south I'll have no problem getting an Uber at all.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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mid day....

The Nissan is gone, the ford is home. They instantly transferred 5500.00 into my account, and I turned right around and paypal‘d The Ford guy 6000.00. Added to the 500.00 I gave him on Sunday as a deposit, I’m into the new/old truck for 6500.00.

But, if you consider that my payoff on the Nissan was at the point it was after only 3 payments of 550.00...This Ford really only cost me about 2650.00 so far. The rest of it came purely as profit from the nissan truck.

Its gonna need some work, as there are a few things wrong, ( The primary being the rear main seal leak).

It has dual tanks, and the front fuel level sender don’t work.
The horn don’t work.
Trim pieces are broke, the rear view mirror is cloudy, the driver side mirror is cracked, and something is loose enough on the passenger side of the dash to allow it to jiggle and vibrate at 70.
Where there is a noticeable out of balance/ worn suspension/ bad shock situation going on.
The paint on the hood and roof is shot,...I think I’ll have those surfaces wrapped satin black though.

Other than that, it’s about what you’d expect for a 100k mile 27 year old truck.

I was also able to pick up the clutch, I’ve added the grease zerk, to the clutch shaft, and i’m getting ready to go down there and start back on getting stuff going.

I’ll see where I end up.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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well i’ve decided, that there is really too much stuff in front of me to worry about trying to jam it into a couple of weeks.
The clutch pedal seems much better, and now that i’ve pumped the outer shaft full of grease, the little bit of slop i was feeling is gone. The outlet on the MC is still capped,and I have a dead firm pedal.

So,....yea me. That part is done.

Because I’m trying to sell the 4L80, and the 2jz/GM trans adapter, I decided that that stuff needed to come out.
And so it is.
35B52F68-14FF-4A8E-A559-2F5DD3C5A9DE.jpeg

Behold, the Mammoth pig...With converter and shifter. This thing is full of fluid, I have gotten so good at removing the thing I was able to remove it w/o spilling a drop of fluid.
The Adapter was a bitch to get off the back of the engine..It fits so tight when you bolt it on the first time It almost becomes fused to the engine...But after some judicious smacking with a rubber mallet, and screw driver prying action, the thing finally came off.
F7C7A103-0B24-4AC6-A9EB-80C45BBBE1CE.jpeg

I’ll put it on Ebay tonight, and see if I can sell it for 650.00, which is 200.00 less than I paid for it.

Without a trans in place, there is no better time to finish putting the EPS back in, and get the steering shaft all sorted out,...Theres literally a big giant hole up in front of the car now.
BBFF4AD5-E0EF-40CA-8907-7710A8130389.jpeg

At the same time, I think I’ve found the rear oil leak that has been here since day one....Those bolt holes in the back of the crank are exposed to wet oil inside the engine...Every bolt I removed from the crank were soaked in oil...I think it’s getting past the threads, and leaking there over time.

Not anymore though..I’m gonna put thread sealant on those bolts next time around.

I’m thinking that since the 2jz bellhousing is so much smaller, I might go ahead and weld the removable piece of the forward tunnel back in place,....but I gotta admit, being able to zip out the transmission bolts from inside the car is way better than groping around with a 3’ extension, and a wobbly socket adapter..

Then again,.....Maybe I won’t.

But..the Many years, and many different configurations have taken their toll on the Monsters interior...he needs some reinforcements.
693BFE19-2AF5-4C7F-92BC-94BA5E027987.jpeg

At the very least, that rectangular cut in the top of the tunnel where the shifter sat recessed in will get a patch welded in.

Which brings me around to why it’s not important that I get the rear end to dude Saturday. I am making good progress, but there’s just too many things left to do before it can all go back together.

Ive got to get the six speed in there, and get the hole properly located. I gotta figure out how high it’ll stick through, and come up with some sort of rubber heat grommet thingy like a stock fox uses ( maybe i’ll use it too).
Ive gotta figure out where the shifter handle will protrude through the console mesh, and come up with a boot for that that don’t look like some BS bandaid to cover a “too big“ hole that typical of most aftermarket shifter boots.

Ill also have to redo the mesh on the console....no saving the old one.

The dash needs to be cut at the drop so that I can put the column in, and the dash can be installed around it without me taking the column apart in two pieces....Im pretty sure that It’s not exactly NHTSA standard right now the way it is.

The dash, and the console need to be sanded and repainted, or maybe even powder coated.

I need a new driveshaft..Among other things...

And now, there’s a truck out there that needs work too.
 
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droopie85gt

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I hope I have your energy when I get your age. Which is why I am doing what I am doing now, 15 years in your review mirror. I want to have this thing sorted by the time I am 60. But alas, I may not be finished with rust repair by then! I don't think I'll need knee replacements, but I am started to be concerned about the constant pain in my left hip, that I will need a hip replacement. I can remember the snow storm and the collision with the curb while being towed behind a 3 wheeler wide open in 3rd gear, that will lead to such replacement.