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If it isn't puming or smoking it probably isn't anything wrong. I think you're looking for a reason to put pistons and rods in the thing. If that's your intention then just do it already. If it was my car I wouldn't be tearing it apart for nothing to install some hp proof anything. But....that ain't my car.

My car is happy just sitting in the garage the last 5yrs.....no....not really...he's pretty sad. He's been out for maybe 30 miles total.
 
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If it isn't puming or smoking it probably isn't anything wrong. I think you're looking for a reason to put pistons and rods in the thing. If that's your intention then just do it already. If it was my car I wouldn't be tearing it apart for nothing to install some hp proof anything. But....that ain't my car.

My car is happy just sitting in the garage the last 5yrs.....no....not really...he's pretty sad. He's been out for maybe 30 miles total.
Scott..Your advice was to drive the car even though there was a vibration present.
Tearing it apart revealed that I had done something wrong, that the flexplate was bent, and that there was zero converter hub support into the crank.
" Just driving" the thing as you've suggested would've resulted in some fcked up sht. Whether that be the engine or the trans, I'm not one to ignore something right in front of my face.

In the minutes since this car has been running, nothing about it is impressive. I've said it as soon as I started putting my foot in it. Again, I can ignore that, and hope itll come around, or I can deal with it while it's in front of me before it fcks me.
I do not want to keep spending money on the car, but I will not throw it all away by ignoring a problem hoping itll go away.

I have no immediate plans to add rods and pistons to the engine unless I'm forced to do so, and I'm certainly NOT trying to justify upgrading any of it now to anybody here.

And letting it sit after spending all of this time and money to drive it 30 miles in 5 years isnt an option either....
A car that I cant afford to fix, or justify spending time or money on is best served in somebody else's garage.
 
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I just want to hear and see it driving around.
I don't even care about burn out videos anymore.
Ok, maybe just one.

I'd be sick if there was something wrong with the rotating assy. itd be less so if it was related to the valve job, and there are leaking valves, but at the same time I'd be pissed because that guy just plain fckd me.
Maybe the HF compression tester is a flaming piece of sht that is way off. Maybe somehow I've done something wrong with the cam timing, and have the belt on " one tooth off".
Maybe I've damaged the cylinder seal from too much fuel and washed the rings.
I dont know.
Obviously, I can answer these questions with time spent doing a leak down test.
I guess I'll just have to stop raising the bad when I'm on a good path..

I'll tell you one thing though..anybody that has an engine out of a car that discovers 20-40% leakage and puts it back together hoping that itll go away with driving..needs to send the money they're throwing away to me.
 
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Maybe I missed this part but what was engine temp when you pulled compression last time?
Yeah,...there’s that. And there is the fact that it only has maybe 60 minutes of actual run time on it. And that there was a ton of cranking with out the benefit of explosions in the chamber to burn off all of the gas going into the cylinder, and that once actually running, the engine would choke and gag on itself when you tried to put your foot in it, dumping even more raw fuel into the chamber. And once running and driving, was so stupid fat under full throttle that the plugs just said “ fck it, I ain’t even tryin to burn all of that“..
If I was the oil in my engine,...I’d smell like fuel/ combustion too, and be as black as the stuff was that i drained out of the engine too.

Maybe i’ve got some part of the combo just wrong..I.e the intake runners/plenum are too big or too long for a stock engine, or Maybe i shoulda had a twin scroll turbo, and exhaust, or maybe there isn’t enough converter,.... These things I can fix if they’re broken...I am just wandering my way along on the path to mod town and a 600 hp 2jz after all.


Do all of the pro things still outweigh the con things?
 
Yeah,...there’s that. And there is the fact that it only has maybe 60 minutes of actual run time on it. And that there was a ton of cranking with out the benefit of explosions in the chamber to burn off all of the gas going into the cylinder, and that once actually running, the engine would choke and gag on itself when you tried to put your foot in it, dumping even more raw fuel into the chamber. And once running and driving, was so stupid fat under full throttle that the plugs just said “ fck it, I ain’t even tryin to burn all of that“..
If I was the oil in my engine,...I’d smell like fuel/ combustion too, and be as black as the stuff was that i drained out of the engine too.

Maybe i’ve got some part of the combo just wrong..I.e the intake runners/plenum are too big or too long for a stock engine, or Maybe i shoulda had a twin scroll turbo, and exhaust, or maybe there isn’t enough converter,.... These things I can fix if they’re broken...I am just wandering my way along on the path to mod town and a 600 hp 2jz after all.


Do all of the pro things still outweigh the con things?


Are the suspected cons the same as cons?
 
Are the suspected cons the same as cons?
The fact that the cold cranking compression was 120 could be construed as a con... (It could also be CarMunchausens.)
The fuel/ combustion smelling black oil could be construed as a con..( it could also be CarMunchausens)

The fact that an Octogenarian riding in the car would tell me to “speed up sonny” when making a power pull is a fact.
 
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The fact that the cold cranking compression was 120 could be construed as a con... (It could also be CarMunchausens.)
The fuel/ combustion smelling black oil could be construed as a con..( it could also be CarMunchausens)

The fact that an Octogenarian riding in the car would tell me to “speed up sonny” when making a power pull is a fact.


Hmmm.... :chin


Not enough data. I guess you're just going to have to run it and see. :)
 
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Well you should always change the oil after the initial tune, remember you had a cable loose in the MS3 causing issues.
I have nothing for the compression numbers, put a small amount of oil in the cylinder and do the test again this will at least verify if the cylinder rings are less than optimal.
You had some serious self induced boost leaks... and never got to drive the car after fixing them....
 
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Flexplate came today...( finally)
and these.
B6E7551D-390E-4A03-9209-7E3AD6332889.jpeg

According to BC, these things are stock base circle cams I do not need to reshim the cams..MOF, they are straight stock replacements.. ( probably a chicken dick HP gain too)

Nonetheless,...Sunday will be a productive day.
 
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How much does a pair of custom cams cost for a Toog? Not that it matters now, but I am one where once I get over $5-700 threshold, I just go for the one and done cost to get me where I want to be.

Case in point my 347. I started out buying the heads off the engine to use with my TFS1 cam. But then I knew my stock bottom end was used and abused, and I was already over $1k invested. So I bought the rest of the 1 year old long block that was built by a reputable source and fully documented... Slapped the heads back on with new gaskets and hardware, yada yada.

I know you are Mikey two (or three) times, but buying $700 cams knowing they are merely mediocre and will maybe (most likely) be replaced later seems silly. If they were $200-300, maybe, but $700 is not what I would just throw away in a year.
 
How much does a pair of custom cams cost for a Toog? Not that it matters now, but I am one where once I get over $5-700 threshold, I just go for the one and done cost to get me where I want to be.

Case in point my 347. I started out buying the heads off the engine to use with my TFS1 cam. But then I knew my stock bottom end was used and abused, and I was already over $1k invested. So I bought the rest of the 1 year old long block that was built by a reputable source and fully documented... Slapped the heads back on with new gaskets and hardware, yada yada.

I know you are Mikey two (or three) times, but buying $700 cams knowing they are merely mediocre and will maybe (most likely) be replaced later seems silly. If they were $200-300, maybe, but $700 is not what I would just throw away in a year.
Well...it’s like this...
All of the cam mfg’s make the equivalent “ stage one“ cam ( 264) that can be used with stock springs. whether it’s BC, Kelford, GSC or who ever....700.00 is what you’re gonna pay minimum to get these things...Purely because the engine is a VVTi version.

Had it been a standard GTE or GE non VVTi 2jz, then you’d save about 200 bucks for the same pair.

(Here it is,...almost 20 years since the last 2jzgte vvti engine ceased production , and there’s still a premium charge for the vvti cammed combo..) Whoda thunk it.


Any other cam profile north of that (272) would’ve forced a spring upgrade, and forced the power band up higher beyond the recommended rpm band for a stock recip assembly to 8000 rpm. Forcing a different converter, even worse low rpm performance, or requiring a really loose converter to make up for that.
So,...

You wanna get in the sand box and play in 2jz town? “ Spend about 15 grand, and this will decimate all that it comes up against...You may even have to overnight parts from japan if need be”
 
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I've been dealing with you here for many years. Even though I rarely get a notice from the bear that runs this thread. I've learned that if I say something stupid and against your nature....you'll do the opposite and point out my fault. Atleast ya know I'm here. A vibration could be many things. I knew the 3amd wouldn't let you continue without tearing it apart. Too many factors that could've led to complete destruction.
 
I've been dealing with you here for many years. Even though I rarely get a notice from the bear that runs this thread. I've learned that if I say something stupid and against your nature....you'll do the opposite and point out my fault. Atleast ya know I'm here. A vibration could be many things. I knew the 3amd wouldn't let you continue without tearing it apart. Too many factors that could've led to complete destruction.
Sometimes I miss answering a comment from you guys when there are multiple comments to deal with. A question, or a comment that’s presented like a question almost always gets replied to.
At the same time, as to not appear condescending ( at least not all the time) :rolleyes:, ill not comment to a lot of one off pokes, jabs or opinions. Your first “ quit worrying and run it“ was one of those.

You work on cars for a living for at least.. the last..what 25 years? I’ve worked on them as a hobby for the last 45 years.

I just can’t imagine you telling a guy that came to you with a concern asking you to help him fix it, And after you’ve had a chance to actually road test his car and FEEL the vibration he’s complaining about to “quit worrying and just drive it”.

The second time when you posted a similar message telling me that there would be no way you’d tear open a brand new engine to install better, “ HP proof” anything, and would prefer to let it sit instead, tipped me off the “Do I say something or not scale“.
I welcome everybody‘s comments. I want people to comment. At the same time, know that I may not agree with the opinion(s) offered ( I cant see how anybody would expect otherwise).

I say sht here all the time that goes completely the opposite way a lot of people might have expected. I expect them to reply to what I say regardless. Sometimes people tell me to shut the fck up. Sometimes I do, sometimes I dont.
 
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June is the month that my vehicle registrations all come around.. This time, I have decided to put a personal plate on the Monster.
When people come on here asking for recommendations for paint color, wheel choice, or personal plate opinions, I always think..
” You dumb fck, what’s the point of you doing something “personal” if you have to ask what other people would do first”.

So, that said know this...I ain’t asking for an opinion.

When I come up behind a car that has a personal plate, I always try to figure out what the guy is trying to say. Most of the time, it’s a fun little mind game. Conversely, If it’s completely obscure, and you can’t figure it out, I give that guy a dumb mthfckr star.
One one hand I get it..it is a “ personalized” license plate...maybe he don’t give a rats red bunion hole If nobody other than him can figure it out.
On the other hand I think...” Why do it then?”
And then I think..Maybe the family or group of people in his circle knows what it means, and that’s all it’s intended for.

So, then along that last train of thought, my homies of this inner circle,........Only you privileged few will know what the hell the plate on the back of my car is trying to say.

NINJMON
 
I get what you’re saying about the cams now, and enjoyed the Jesse reference, lol.

As far as the plate, I’m guessing the general public will assume it’s a Pokémon thing and you’re a bit of a weirdo.

HAHAHAHA...I spit out my coffee. My 16 yr old stepson, was evidently a Pokémon master before I met my wife. Let me see if in his bazillion card collection there's a NINJMON card.

One question about your comp test. Where is the cam timing (stock at idle)? I mean does the phaser run straight as installed at idle or does it advance/retard the timing at idle. That would make a big diff in comp test.

From your descriptions of the first attempts to start it, I would expect gas in the oil. I think now that you've got the tune in the general neighborhood, you can feel more comfortable running it and working on the tune. I would think the cam timing would be a big factor in how it runs and even your compression test results.

I get the trepidation. You've spent a ton of money. At this point, you expected to be driving it and post burnout videos (comeonalready) and hitting a cruise in or two....just so you can answer the whatthehellisthat questions from a bubba or three.
 
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