I'm assuming that this is a link then, and I cannot ask a question,......but just in case....
If I try to clean the pinhole area what do I clean it with? And,..will adding filler rod ( or mig wire....I got buttloads of that) fix this?
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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If I try to clean the pinhole area what do I clean it with? And,..will adding filler rod ( or mig wire....I got buttloads of that) fix this?
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If you are tig welding you use only ER70S-2 you won't have any problems
that is what I read anyway, that is the type of wire.
not that I am a welder, just what I gathered from reading the posts.
i didn't see any mention of what to clean it with.
that is what I read anyway, that is the type of wire.
not that I am a welder, just what I gathered from reading the posts.
i didn't see any mention of what to clean it with.
I
You're right drew...it said that 14 hours ago.it didn't say 10 minutes ago.
It is a link and what I know is what I read; it does make sense to use the type of rod and method that they prescribe.
It seems that the more common low grade steel may have some impurities in it that are a result of loose manufacturing processes.
Well....(Here,...let me add a little redneck to the update)..
Welp,...the whole external pan is welded, leaving me with the conflicted decision to mig weld every inside corner in this big rectangular 16 ga box I have bolted to the bottom of the engine.
On one hand,..I mig welded the 250 pan...I sectioned a 3.3 pan and cut down a 250 pan, and made a double sump 250 pan..
The only one in the country I'd imagine ...( I mean,..who would do something so stupid anyway?)
I didn't leak.
I mig welded the whole gas tank in the red car.
it didn't leak.
I mig welded the top of the monster's gas tank when I converted it over to an in tank pump..
It doesn't leak.
I should be able to do the same here...my only concern is that the freakin pan fits now. In other words, it's not all twisted and warped like it'll surely be if I decide to mig weld the inside of the pan...but I have to make sure I stop the leaks..and right now I'll bet I got a bunch.
In other news,.....Amazon turbo manifold dude lost to me. He paid the extra 56 buck to shut me up. I left him alone with no crushing bad review. The new turbo manifold arrived today.. It, and the turbo fit. But the thing itself looks like they scrounged the tubing from wherever they could get it...with all kinds of weird mars on the tubes..and the common plenum looks like I did it.
( read,...not professional looking)
I don't care though,..as long as I can get the bitch bolted on, and a 68 mm turbo fits...it does the job. And, it'll be coated before it ever sees one degree of exhaust heat.
Welp,...the whole external pan is welded, leaving me with the conflicted decision to mig weld every inside corner in this big rectangular 16 ga box I have bolted to the bottom of the engine.
On one hand,..I mig welded the 250 pan...I sectioned a 3.3 pan and cut down a 250 pan, and made a double sump 250 pan..
The only one in the country I'd imagine ...( I mean,..who would do something so stupid anyway?)
I didn't leak.
I mig welded the whole gas tank in the red car.
it didn't leak.
I mig welded the top of the monster's gas tank when I converted it over to an in tank pump..
It doesn't leak.
I should be able to do the same here...my only concern is that the freakin pan fits now. In other words, it's not all twisted and warped like it'll surely be if I decide to mig weld the inside of the pan...but I have to make sure I stop the leaks..and right now I'll bet I got a bunch.
In other news,.....Amazon turbo manifold dude lost to me. He paid the extra 56 buck to shut me up. I left him alone with no crushing bad review. The new turbo manifold arrived today.. It, and the turbo fit. But the thing itself looks like they scrounged the tubing from wherever they could get it...with all kinds of weird mars on the tubes..and the common plenum looks like I did it.
( read,...not professional looking)
I don't care though,..as long as I can get the bitch bolted on, and a 68 mm turbo fits...it does the job. And, it'll be coated before it ever sees one degree of exhaust heat.
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- Jul 7, 2005
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Redneck = Taking a tube of Gasket Maker and caulk those seams shut... DONE
Climbing rope to fill in the big gaps before the Gasket Maker
Climbing rope to fill in the big gaps before the Gasket Maker
I guess " welp" is normal in northern Florida, my bad.
I thought welp was what you get on your hands from not wearing gloves while welding.
Oh wait, that's welt and sunburn.
Oh wait, that's welt and sunburn.
On a whim last night in between bitching about one thing or another, I decided to go downstairs and see if there was anyway to trace how all of the water had gotten into the monsters block. On another website, I'm trying to sell all of that stuff, and I wanted to be sure that it was truly a HG issue that allowed all of the antifreeze into the pan.
I had ported the head two years ago when I converted it over to N/a, I wanted to be sure that a port in the head hadn't broken through. And who knows about any of the rest..the block has been over bored to the moon twice to install the sleeves ( once .180 over, this last time, .250 over.) People that follow this would know that the original sleeve had a .090 thick wall when installed, and after final boring, left me with like a .070" cylinder wall.
But you'll also remember that those sleeves were improperly machined, and I ended up with a taper in the cylinder bore that was much more narrow at the bottom, than at the top. And the #5 cylinder had bad machining marks where the boring bar cut huge gouges into the wall.
And After discovering that when I disassembled it after running for awhile, I made them fix it.
The second time around, and who knows why, they installed a much thicker sleeve. This time, even after boring to the final bore dimensions, the cylinder wall thickness looked to be at least .100". That means, they probably hogged those old sleeves out and damaged the remaining block to the point that they had to install those bigger sleeves..and who knows how big they had to cut the holes to get them bitches in.......Like maybe .260 over?... in other words..they bored my block over 1/4" to install those sleeves.
when I got the block back I took a pic of the deck, cause you could plainly see the wall thickness...I was happy that I had such a thick cylinder. In January of 2018.
But now, after running the thing since then...I think the folly of the whole thing has finally shown itself for what it truly is/was...
A time bomb.
* Look at the crack between the cylinders..there is one between everyone of them. And now that the block isn't all clean and shiny, you can see those thick assed sleeves for real.
So....obviously it took it awhile..I drove this thing to the Gulf coast last year, and It ran perfectly..probably as a result of me bouncing the thing off the rev limiter a couple of times,..maybe just a matter of time...I don't know. But one things for sure,...the old Monster is dead.
Long live the New Monster.
I had ported the head two years ago when I converted it over to N/a, I wanted to be sure that a port in the head hadn't broken through. And who knows about any of the rest..the block has been over bored to the moon twice to install the sleeves ( once .180 over, this last time, .250 over.) People that follow this would know that the original sleeve had a .090 thick wall when installed, and after final boring, left me with like a .070" cylinder wall.
But you'll also remember that those sleeves were improperly machined, and I ended up with a taper in the cylinder bore that was much more narrow at the bottom, than at the top. And the #5 cylinder had bad machining marks where the boring bar cut huge gouges into the wall.
And After discovering that when I disassembled it after running for awhile, I made them fix it.
The second time around, and who knows why, they installed a much thicker sleeve. This time, even after boring to the final bore dimensions, the cylinder wall thickness looked to be at least .100". That means, they probably hogged those old sleeves out and damaged the remaining block to the point that they had to install those bigger sleeves..and who knows how big they had to cut the holes to get them bitches in.......Like maybe .260 over?... in other words..they bored my block over 1/4" to install those sleeves.
when I got the block back I took a pic of the deck, cause you could plainly see the wall thickness...I was happy that I had such a thick cylinder. In January of 2018.
But now, after running the thing since then...I think the folly of the whole thing has finally shown itself for what it truly is/was...
A time bomb.
* Look at the crack between the cylinders..there is one between everyone of them. And now that the block isn't all clean and shiny, you can see those thick assed sleeves for real.
So....obviously it took it awhile..I drove this thing to the Gulf coast last year, and It ran perfectly..probably as a result of me bouncing the thing off the rev limiter a couple of times,..maybe just a matter of time...I don't know. But one things for sure,...the old Monster is dead.
Long live the New Monster.
On a whim last night in between bitching about one thing or another, I decided to go downstairs and see if there was anyway to trace how all of the water had gotten into the monsters block. On another website, I'm trying to sell all of that stuff, and I wanted to be sure that it was truly a HG issue that allowed all of the antifreeze into the pan.
I had ported the head two years ago when I converted it over to N/a, I wanted to be sure that a port in the head hadn't broken through. And who knows about any of the rest..the block has been over bored to the moon twice to install the sleeves ( once .180 over, this last time, .250 over.) People that follow this would know that the original sleeve had a .090 thick wall when installed, and after final boring, left me with like a .070" cylinder wall.
But you'll also remember that those sleeves were improperly machined, and I ended up with a taper in the cylinder bore that was much more narrow at the bottom, than at the top. And the #5 cylinder had bad machining marks where the boring bar cut huge gouges into the wall.
And After discovering that when I disassembled it after running for awhile, I made them fix it.
The second time around, and who knows why, they installed a much thicker sleeve. This time, even after boring to the final bore dimensions, the cylinder wall thickness looked to be at least .100". That means, they probably hogged those old sleeves out and damaged the remaining block to the point that they had to install those bigger sleeves..and who knows how big they had to cut the holes to get them bitches in.......Like maybe .260 over?... in other words..they bored my block over 1/4" to install those sleeves.
when I got the block back I took a pic of the deck, cause you could plainly see the wall thickness...I was happy that I had such a thick cylinder. In January of 2018.
But now, after running the thing since then...I think the folly of the whole thing has finally shown itself for what it truly is/was...
A time bomb.
* Look at the crack between the cylinders..there is one between everyone of them. And now that the block isn't all clean and shiny, you can see those thick assed sleeves for real.
So....obviously it took it awhile..I drove this thing to the Gulf coast last year, and It ran perfectly..probably as a result of me bouncing the thing off the rev limiter a couple of times,..maybe just a matter of time...I don't know. But one things for sure,...the old Monster is dead.
Long live the New Monster.
...and there it is.
I don't have a funny comment for this one but I'm not surprised either. This is the first post in this long thread of posts that I could feel in the pit of my stomach as I read it.
I know the final 'thing' isn't what you're always after but it completely sucks that all that time and effort you put in came to this. It did [look] good.
Is this new motor going to take you down the same road for other reasons?
All that time and money only to be a victim of machinists that don't care. I'd want to drop that block on someone's nice shiny hood!
Who knows what caused it. It could be that I'm simply pushing an engine was never intended to do what I'm doing with it.
I'm curious to see how deep those cracks go.... You thinking the cracks compromised the HG seal and caused your issues (I would expect the seal to be between the liner and head gasket)? Have you straight edged the block and heads yet to see what the distortion is? I'd check to see if the liners have moved/protruded/dropped which caused your diagnoses HG issues.
Excuse any ignorance I have on this motor, I don't know this platform very well.
Excuse any ignorance I have on this motor, I don't know this platform very well.
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