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I’m officially there. I’m at the stage where rationale starts to spend my money.
Simply put, things gets to a point where you start telling yourself “ Since you’ve gone this far, you may as well just do it”.

That line of thinking is the killer of many a project. That line of thinking turns a winter project into a multiple winter project...One that might have had a modest budget, but now becomes a “ stupid expensive, never ending excuse to keep on spending money on it“ project..

Specifically speaking.....this freaking 2JZGTE.

Today’s lesson: 2Jz’s use TTY fasteners........everywhere. Head bolts, Main bolts, Rod bolts,..all TTY. Once loosened, they become throw away. I knew this about the head bolts,...and there is now a set of head studs laying down there in their place.
If I could’ve left the bottom end intact, and not remove the rotating assembly, those fasteners would’ve been fine for my anticipated power goals......

I‘d have never known this if the intake cam hadn’t spun off of the wrench I had on it while trying to remove the intake cam gear. So I could simply change out the cam seals...

A total of ten dollars to do...

But things didn’t work out that way.

Now, after doing a leak down test ( the results of which are partly suspect) I have to remove the head to take it to a machine shop and have it checked.

The rational part of your brain says: “Since you’ve got the head off, and the head is at a machine shop, you may as well have him touch up the valves.”
And $250.00 blows straight out of your ass.

You need a new head gasket, ...You buy the best, because “Since you intend to lean on the engine more than stock, you may as well buy a Cometic”

And another $150 flies outta there.

You now have a completely fresh head, and a new head gasket....You heard somewhere that the head bolts may be TTY....You do some reading,..sure enough they are,..So you buy new ones. They’re cheap enough, but the “voices from the bleachers“ tell you to not be a chump, and remember why you rationalized the head gasket to yourself...( Oh yeah.....I’m gonna go for a little less than twice the factory power level the engine came with originally.........Dammit!)

So you send the TTY stock stuff back, and spend 3 times more than that to buy head studs...BAM!
Another $150.00.

But finally,...........Here you are..You got a fresh head,....You got new cam seals,...You got a new Cometic head gasket, and now a brand new set of ARP head studs to hold that bitch on.
But There’s pitting around the water holes in the block deck...it looks deep enough in some areas to cause a water leak.....And Cometic head gaskets already have a rep for leaking even when everything is perfect...and this is far from perfect.

A call to Cometic confirms your fear,....they want perfect mating surfaces. That’ll mean that the block will need decking.

And that’ll require I loosen and remove the rod bolts,...which are TTY,...and the main bolts...which are TTY...to remove the rotating assy so they can deck the block.
( See where this is going?)

And if all of this ain’t bad enough....I gotta deal with the 3AMD at night, and the rational “if I’m gonna go that far, I may as well“ part of my brain the rest of the time.

So.... ( you’re almost at the end now)... The rational side says I should buy new standard bearings and rings since the pistons and crank are out...Cha-Ching!....$250.00 more. New main studs,...Boom! Another $150.00. New rod bolts,...Wham! $125.00.
The rational side tells me that rod bolt replacement always warrants a rod resizing afterwards,..so I now have machine work in front of me too..Lets just add $200.00 to that..For block decking, a light hone,...and rod resizing.

All on an engine that was purchased as a running,.....straight drop in....only changing an oil pan to make it fit, and having to adapt some transmission to that to get it all running.

All of which is now tapping on $8500.

Engine- 2800.00
Intake- 550.00
Exhaust - 600.00
Big ass waste gate- 300.00
Fuel system- 350.00
Injectors- 400.00
Ecu upgrades 350.00
Coil packs 250.00
Oil pump 280.00
Water pump 140.00
Transmission fiasco- 600.00.. ( plus months of days off to make it work)
Fasteners 450.00
A2W intercooler - 350.00
Machine work 450.00
Head gasket. 175.00
Rings, bearings, gaskets- 350.00

If Kate only knew......she’d have a freakin’ stroke.
As for me....I thinkimgonnapuke.

I was just considering better heads for my car since I bought a better intake. But then that’ll lead to gaskets, pushrods, more cleaning and painting of accessories I wish I would have done the first time... Nah. Good luck with yours. I’ll be following along as I dick with my house.
 
I'm trying to rationalize the meaning...
is the Monster the belly button, and the Coyote the "8 carat diamond"?

One day your lovely wife will realize that instead of this path to 2JayZee greatness, you could have bought an 8 carat diamond for her for an equal cost to all of this and we will no longer hear from you.

Hide the receipts. Shred them, don't keep pictures of them. GooGle knows everything and loves to blab.
 
Did I solve my problem???

I think I did.

But not without the commensurate “ hanging chad”.

Anyway, today is my day off. Last night Im sitting on the couch, and I jump up, tell Kate “ I’m soldering”, and go downstairs and bring up the DIY Jim Stim kit, and the Jim Stim X kit. I think it was about 8:30.
I sat in one place with my knees bent and body hunched over the counter for 2 hours......solderin’...
Till rigor set in.
I had to be pried off the chair.The other one would have to wait till tomorrow...which was today.

Again it goes without a hitch,..done in an hour...Except.....

I put the DB 37 connector on the wrong side of the board. How was I s’posed to know it went on the bottom of the damn board?

And as a direct result,...spent the next 2 hours trying to unsolder 37 tiny assed pins all right next to each other. If it isn’t fcked up as a rats ass, I’ll be amazed.

That meant that I had shot the entire morning squarely in the ass. I was in the garage immediately after that.

What was the plan then?..I’ve been saying that I’m at the precipice with the trans for a couple of weeks...Despite that, each time I’d go down there I’d add more reinforcement to the the individual sections of the brackets that make up the adapter.

I think I’m finally done with that sht now.
IMAG0338.jpg

Part A.
IMAG0339.jpg

Part B.
Simple math after that...Add part A to Part B to get part C....
IMAG0340.jpg

So,...where’s the hanging chad?......

When I put the front pump back in the trans ( after removing it this afternoon to be sure that it wasn’t full of metal junk), I replaced the front pump bushing, the front pump seal, and the front pump lip seal.

The front pump seal sheared off a little bit of the lip sealwhen I tightened it up....A sure fire leak. That left me no choice but to reuse the old one..the one that has been exposed to welding heat.
It sheared off too.

Then to add insult to the injury,...one of the pump bolts did that thing that bolts do when you know it stripped....it tightned till it was tight,..then it loosened.

So I got that going for me....

which leaves me nothing but to resort to the basics...
IMAG0341.jpg
 
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Some say it could sub in for an iron maiden, others just want to hear the go fast noises it'll facilitate once it's all put together.

I'm saying it looks good and I bet it works just fine. Congrats on progress.
 
Ok....

Im measurin’
From the mating surface of my adapter plate to the back of the 2j block is 5-3/8”.
When I lay the bell housing on the floor and measure from the floor to the back of the bell housing.....5-1/2”

1/8” diff. The converter will hang 1/8” out of the front pump of the transmission.

I call the converter company. I ask “ How much travel should I allow for the converter in/out of the front pump”?

“1/8”.

I'm there.

The front pump O ring costs 4 bucks..I could buy 10 for safe measure, but I don’t want to keep bolting and un-bolting the front pump. The front pump already has a compromised bolt..I gotta do something about the one bolt.that is starting to strip.

( I’m so tired of fckin with this transmission)

The bolt isn’t completely fck’d...I didn’t keep tightening it just to make sure it was spinning, and...those bolts are short when taking into account that they have to go through 1/4” of extra thickness.

Maybe I’ve just pulled a couple of threads.

Maybe a longer bolt will bite into good stuff.

The rod bolts are here now,...I have every single thing to put the bottom together minus machine work, including a custom sized 86mm piston ring compressor. All I need to create a completely rebuilt 2jz bottom end is machine work.
 
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I pulled all of the front bracketry off of the transmission. The bolt that was suspect came out with out any junk attached to the threads. When I went to thread it back in, it went in although it was a little harder to thread in than the other non-damaged holes. ( clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole)
nonetheless, I threaded the bolt in by itself, and went the extra 1/4” that this tab is holding the bolt off. It threaded in all the way,..it feels like it’s gonna go tight when in put some torque on it.
I just need a longer bolt.

hopefully.
 
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