Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.

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#11,141
I've had a cheapo heat gun from HF for at least 12 years. Still works great. I bought a dremel and it started making a crazy noise and would stop working intermittently. I had to take it apart and rotate the brushes in it for it to start working almost properly. Bought the dremel style tool from HF first ( 10yrs ago ) figured I'd spend the 80 bucks on the real thing. The actual Dremel has been working for the last 2yrs....but I have no real faith in it.
 

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#11,142
Well I got the new shims installed,....most came into line. One’s too tight, two are too loose. $27.00 to fix it.

Trying to decide how best to prime the engine...I’m thinking that I’m gonna do it on the stand. Since this thing has a crank driven oil pump, the only way to prime the engine is to spin it......with the starter. Since it makes sense to me that it needs to spin fast, I’ll probably do it with the plugs out. It’s one of my conversations with the 3AMD,...his concern that the thing will be hard to prime...and me telling him to go sit in the corner and shut the phck up while I do this.

Obviously, I’ll have to have the front of the engine back on to do that,..and that will have to wait till I get the last three shims from the clueless Lexus parts counter person...Tuesday will be the best case scenario for getting those....Soooo....Maybe Thursday?

I so wanted to be putting this freakin’ engine in the car this Thursday... :nonono:

It doesn’t matter really...There are weeks of days off left to do the rest of the junk that needs to be done before I can hope to do the restart..Talk about biting off more than you can chew...
 
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#11,143
CarMichael Angelo said:
Well I got the new shims installed,....most came into line. One’s too tight, two are too loose. $27.00 to fix it.

Trying to decide how best to prime the engine...I’m thinking that I’m gonna do it on the stand. Since this thing has a crank driven oil pump, the only way to prime the engine is to spin it......with the starter. Since it makes sense to me that it needs to spin fast, I’ll probably do it with the plugs out. It’s one of my conversations with the 3AMD,...his concern that the thing will be hard to prime...and me telling him to go sit in the corner and shut the phck up while I do this.

Obviously, I’ll have to have the front of the engine back on to do that,..and that will have to wait till I get the last three shims from the clueless Lexus parts counter person...Tuesday will be the best case scenario for getting those....Soooo....Maybe Thursday?

I so wanted to be putting this freakin’ engine in the car this Thursday... :nonono:

It doesn’t matter really...There are weeks of days off left to do the rest of the junk that needs to be done before I can hope to do the restart..Talk about biting off more than you can chew...
Click to expand...
If you want to prime it, you need to push pressurized oil in through a sending unit port or oil cooler outlet.

https://goodson.com/products/engine-pre-lube-tank that is one way.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-t40 (a cheaper, smaller, option)

https://www.fordracingparts.com/part/M-6600-T6492 the cheapest store-bought method is something like this, and as smart as you are, I bet you're already thinking about going to Walmart, buying their $6 garden sprayer, and modifying it. Which is what I use too, I've also got one modified to fill modern transmissions.
 
#11,145
Yeah,..after that last update I looked at engine prelubers. It’s basically a empty Freon or propane tank ( or in my case,) an unused air pressure tank. I’ll simply cut a hole in one end that I can weld a gasketed filler cap on top, an drill a hole and weld a-10 fitting on the bottom with a ball type shut off valve before that. It is already threaded so that I can put a female air fitting on.
then,....fill that bitch with a gallon of 5/30, hook the hose to the inlet of my oil fitting and give it hell.
 
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#11,146
As a footnote to the HF Bauer drill failure, turns out that the battery doesn't drain and die like I'm used too on my old Nicad style drills. Usually, ill take a battery to full dead the first usage so that the battery won't take on a short charge cycle for the future.
Evidently, a Bauer drill with its Li-ion battery just sort of strokes out and intermittently stops when the battery is near dead.
Once recharged however, it appears to work normally.
Ill have to change my thinking about battery life with this drill.
 
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#11,148
CarMichael Angelo said:
Yeah,..after that last update I looked at engine prelubers. It’s basically a empty Freon or propane tank ( or in my case,) an unused air pressure tank. I’ll simply cut a hole in one end that I can weld a gasketed filler cap on top, an drill a hole and weld a-10 fitting on the bottom with a ball type shut off valve before that. It is already threaded so that I can put a female air fitting on.
then,....fill that bitch with a gallon of 5/30, hook the hose to the inlet of my oil fitting and give it hell.
Click to expand...

No you pressurize the oil system, drop the engine in, hook everything up, add lots of boost, THEN GIVE IT HELL.

And record it on video!
:cheers:
 
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#11,149
One more thing that keeps me up at night...

Anybody ever just put an air hose nozzle up against the oil filter outlet ( engine inlet) and pull the trigger to see if the oil pressure gauge will record air pressure?

I did.

It won’t. You can hear air escaping past the rear main seal....

I’m hoping that all of that changes when it gets oil in it and the differences in the clearance between air and oil changes in what will, and won’t blow by when I pressurize the oil system.:shrug:
 
#11,150
I would think the air would find the easiest path out. The valve cover isn't on so I'd think it would just blow out the top of the engine. It's got to go past the main bearings first so that may be the path of least resistance. I've never put pressurized air in the oil system. Could be completely normal. Your 3amD has some very interesting questions.
 
#11,151
CarMichael Angelo said:
Yeah,..after that last update I looked at engine prelubers. It’s basically a empty Freon or propane tank ( or in my case,) an unused air pressure tank. I’ll simply cut a hole in one end that I can weld a gasketed filler cap on top, an drill a hole and weld a-10 fitting on the bottom with a ball type shut off valve before that. It is already threaded so that I can put a female air fitting on.
then,....fill that bitch with a gallon of 5/30, hook the hose to the inlet of my oil fitting and give it hell.
Click to expand...

Maybe a fluid level sight gauge:
1581437170464.png
 
#11,152
Well,...that goofy assed looking thing is made. I gotta rinse the thing out with thinner to make sure that there will be no small crap floating around in the oil that I’m going to force into the engine.
I’ve been dicking around with the intake cam for three days now. I put what shims I had in, torqued the cam down and measured the clearance. Removed the cam, removed the shims, measured the shims and subtracted or added to that to get the target clearance of .006”
Then I went and ordered the shims that should’ve been the answer to this math problem...they come in thicknesses that are approximately .002” larger or smaller depending on which way you need to go.

I did that last Wednesday. Thursday I order them, they’re in Friday.....I install the shims, bolt down the cam, measure the clearance......sht still ain’t right.
On Monday,...I order 4 more shims. They come in today. I go home for lunch, remove the cam, swap out the shims, bolt the cam back down, and measure the clearance....still.......sht ain’t right.
Now it’s down to one valve...it measures at .009 with the shim that measures .116” thick. Simple math should conclude that if I want .007 valve clearance, I need a shim that’s .118” thick...

So that’s what I ordered......... again. One shim that measures .300 millimeters.....or,....in America.... .118”
That thing will be here tomorrow, and I’ll go about the process again. If it brings the clearance into line like it should, every intake valve will be w/I .001” of each other.
Despite the fact that that piece of sht machinist ground the valves off by as far as .009-.010..
That woulda been one noisy, ticking sonofabitch.
 
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#11,157
I can’t stand it. Tomorrow by end of day, I could potentially be looking at the tooge inside the monster instead of outside of it.
ive decided that I’m gonna fill the crankcase with a gallon of oil, and mark the dipstick at that level as “ low” then force the 5th qt in under pressure. I’ll fill the filter with qt 6 and screw that thing on temporarily, then wire the starter up and crank that engine.

IF I get oil pressure with no leaks,......it’s on to building mount plates, bolting the trans onto the back of the tooge, and swinging that dude into place. IF,...it fits w/o having to cut any of the existing kmember away, I’ll make the solid mounts and permanently marry the big monster to the little monster.

Heres to hoping.... :cheers:
 
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