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Just to see what they did if nothing else:


Possible Manual Option:
(The dude in the first video listed is baked as eff. Prolly why so many edits :rlaugh: )


Possible Auto Option:
 
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Called Crower today for insight into the cams,...they got em, they’re here in the US, and the pair is less than the one that currently lives in the Monster. ( imagine that? No $27.00 10 minute phone call to Australia to get a cam made)

Additionally, I’ll need none of the following:
No $200.00 set of pushrods. MOF, I don’t need no stinking pushrods..
No 600.00 set of roller lifters. MOF, I don’t need no stinking lifters
No 600.00 set of 1.75 ratio stainless steel roller rockers MOF.....( am I repeating myself again?)
No home made guide plates.
No one off length timing chain..
No modified SBF timing gear...

Damn....could it be that (excepting the transmission, the oil pan mod, and the engine mounts).....I’ll actually be able to buy and BOLT stuff on an engine that it was intended to go on?

Say it ain’t so!!!
 
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It wasn't until I started working on Toyotas that I understood their old slogans "oh what a feeling!" and "I love what you do for me Toyota!"

Even as they cram more technology into them, the things that are meant to be serviced remain easy.

Then there's the parts availabilty, holy hell. If Toyota made it, you can get it. Then there's the performance side I never expected. I mean, there's a TRD supercharger kit for the 4.7 in my 4Runner...
 

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Called Crower today for insight into the cams,...they got em, they’re here in the US, and the pair is less than the one that currently lives in the Monster. ( imagine that? No $27.00 10 minute phone call to Australia to get a cam made)

Additionally, I’ll need none of the following:
No $200.00 set of pushrods. MOF, I don’t need no stinking pushrods..
No 600.00 set of roller lifters. MOF, I don’t need no stinking lifters
No 600.00 set of 1.75 ratio stainless steel roller rockers MOF.....( am I repeating myself again?)
No home made guide plates.
No one off length timing chain..
No modified SBF timing gear...

Damn....could it be that (excepting the transmission, the oil pan mod, and the engine mounts).....I’ll actually be able to buy and BOLT stuff on an engine that it was intended to go on?

Say it ain’t so!!!
GSC for cams if it were me . But you aren’t looking to squeeze every bit out of it . Shimless buckets for the head instead of push rods obviously . Then springs and ready to rock . Head studs as well . Stock gasket is MLS . Oem toyota belt is what most use or a gates blue belt . Hks makes a purple belt as well .
 
Just to see what they did if nothing else:


Possible Manual Option:
(The dude in the first video listed is baked as eff. Prolly why so many edits :rlaugh: )


Possible Auto Option:
I noted the a340 toyota trans has been in the 9s

I have driven a 800 Rwhp with a cd009 with the Collins adapter and a shifter and all that and the trans was vague and felt like dog :poo: . T56 is the way to go if you were going manual .
 
I noted the a340 toyota trans has been in the 9s

I have driven a 800 Rwhp with a cd009 with the Collins adapter and a shifter and all that and the trans was vague and felt like dog :poo: . T56 is the way to go if you were going manual .


...and of course, the possibility exists that yours didn't turn out well that time. I couldn't say, but there certainly are a metric :poo: ton of folks going to that specific setup.

Hell, if it were me an my goal was 400/400 or a little higher, I'd use a built T5 if I could! :rlaugh:
 
...and of course, the possibility exists that yours didn't turn out well that time. I couldn't say, but there certainly are a metric :poo: ton of folks going to that specific setup.

Hell, if it were me an my goal was 400/400 or a little higher, I'd use a built T5 if I could! :rlaugh:
2-3 cars swapped here . Lexus sc300 and a Scion FR-S . Trans shifts the same . But to each his own

They are going there because v160 toyota 6 speeds sell for 6-10k

Most guys don’t want to spend the conversion money even though people are seeing the light and starting to . The cd009 started cuz it was super cheap 2-3 years ago
 
I’m done.

Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not “ done” done.....I’m freakin done with this stupid assed square tube hard water line.
I simply cannot get rid of the porosity in the welds that is causing me to lose my freakin mind. I have literally been chasing holes that turn into more holes. You weld up the hole.....there’s another hole. Air gets past invisible seams that have long since been ground smooth...you weld that area,...it ends up looking like ass-burger.
You cannot stand to leave ass burger looking work unfinished,...even though it’ll potentially be hidden behind other things.
So you grind down the ass burger. Test,...leaks,...weld,..grind,....test, leaks some where else, weld, grind,...
Throw the phcker out of the garage...

I’m done.

There will be no version.......( Hell,.........I’ve lost count.......5, 6?)

I kill myself...sometimes sht’s right in front of my face...if you have a hose that you are worried about getting hot...whadya gonna do about it?

You insulate it.
tay-2519_w.jpg

So then...I put this sleeve over my -12 hose,...I re-route the hose further away from the point of contact and I put the damn thing back together...
I’m such an idiot.
 
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The 2 j is a winter project. I'm in no particular rush.
I have to get through the one big event that I plan to be at in October. ( Cruisin the Coast) Once that's behind me, the slow, dim bulb, ground crawling Gila monster becomes...

The king of all monsters.
 
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The 2 j is a winter project. I'm in no particular rush.
I have to get through the one big event that I plan to be at in October. ( Cruisin the Coast) Once that's behind me, the slow, dim bulb, ground crawling Gila monster becomes...

The king of all monsters.


Once it hatches, I'm adding it to my collection:

1566409623312.png
 
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I'd show you a picture,...But it's not real yet.

I placed an offer on a 2jz-gte with trans. 2999.00 to my door.. It'll probably be Monday before I know if they accepted it.( about 150 less)
I placed an offer for the intake/90mmTB/fuel rail. 499.00 to my door. ( about 40.00 less)

I figure waiting will end up costing me more money now that the big giant orange head is still fcking with China. So,..before the latest economy crippling trade sanctions take effect, I guess I'll go ahead and buy my Asian built parts.
 
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I was too tired last night for a full update, but it's a new day.

You lose.

I've spent my last Saturday working last weekend. The true test will come next weekend, it's the last Saturday of the month, and they usually require full participation. I guess I'll have to wait and see how the week goes next week to know if I'm truly in a new job, or whether or not it's just a facade.

All that aside, today at least I'm off. Ive long since abandoned the fabricated steel dog-leg water line. At the same time, abandoned the insulated-12 hose alternative.

It just don't make no sense.

The one water fitting at the rear of the engine barely touches the header. Any rubber hose, regardless of the fact that I insulated the outside is still gonna have all of the header heat transferred into the inside of the hose through the hose end that actually would touch the header ( the fitting don't touch, the hose end does) While not too much of a problem while water is moving through the hose, ( cause water will wick the heat away from the fitting) but once I shut the engine off, and everything gets hotter immediately after is when that fitting would be vulnerable to leakage.

Another plan 9 from outer space.

That leaves only one solution. It runs along the same line of thought I had when I decided to fabricate that piece of sht steel hard line. I would've done this the first time had I had the -10 tube nuts, and commensurate tube sleeves, but I di-ent. I used what I had. I improvised,......I overcame,....I adapted. I threw it away.

So then.....-10 aluminum line is finicky sht. I have a -12 in to -10 out y block ( a real pricy fcking thing I might add), and I have the tube nuts, the line, and the sleeves...I should be able to fix this. Proble is -10 hard line don't like being bent too tightly, and when working with short lengths becomes even more frustrating to get right.
But I'm that guy...I love to punish myself. And I have the whole day to do it.

If I'm successful, I can put the rest of the car back where it was three weeks ago (running), and go about the business of torchering the twin Sumitomos that are on the back of the car.

More news from our little friends from the land of rice-n-sushi.

The one guy came back with a counteroffer on the intake..basically telling me that he'll sell me the intake for 510.00 shipped.
I'll buy it for that. Where else are you gonna buy an 1/8" thick tigged, black powder coated aluminum intake, fuel rail, 90 mm throttle body, and throttle cable for 510 bucks shipped?
image.jpeg

What's the intake remind you of?

Ill pay cash for this thing. I was just awarded a 250.00 spiff at work that is currently on a gift card. In my mind, free money. That means I'm in this thing for 260 bucks.
I'd have to be stupid not to buy it.

( Although it is pretty stupid buying this thing when you think about it, considering I don't even have the engine that it fits)

But that's only a matter of time.

Which brings me around to my final topic:

Whaddam I gonna do with the monster engine?

Do you have any idea how much money is in this thing? I shudder to think about it. At least 6k, probably closer to 8 k when you add up the stuff that's bolted onto it.

What would I be able to sell it for,...half? 1/3rd?. The freakin external oil pump is 700.00 alone. The problem will be the complexity. You guys know that it has a timing chain gear that has been modified to fit the only camshaft on the planet that fits this engine...what happens when I tell future dude that he buys the thing under the pretense that " it goes till it blows"?

I'll bet it's un sellable.
 
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That intake looks very nice. If you can't sell the Monster Crossbreed 6, build a run stand and sell tickets to come watch the Frankenstein engine run. Might make enough to pay off your house! Or get listed as a domestic terrorist. It's a win either way, really.

I can't remember why, but there must be some reason why you come out of the rear water port with a 90, go to the 11 o'clock and 180. I'm guessing there is interference or something that kept you from turning the 90 down to 4 or 6 o'clock and doing another 90 over to the middle port?
 
Oh yeah,..I also have a running car.

As I expected, trying to use -10 hard line was a gigantor pain in my ass. You can't get that junk to bend tightly w/o kinking.
( and yes, I'm using a bender)
20190824_133720_zpsqzejuend.jpg

You can see that kinked up piece of sht under the header..good thing too it's too hideous to have on display
Speaking of which, ck out the color of the headers versus the color of the down pipe...something is going south here.
Thinking my spooly boi has a leaky bearing...

20190824_133642_zpsgekaqerh.jpg

When I said that the rear header tube touched that fitting, I wasn't exaggerating.

It's in there though, and everything is tight. It's raining now, so no road test. One thing though, it's kinda running weird,..slight miss at idle..I'm sure that that is a tuning issue.
 
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