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Yup. Those blasted internet search engines.

And I thought a Bonnet was a hard rocker from the UK who used to get drunk, abusive and let it all hang out on stage. Another T, and he could have been the late Neil Bonnetts brother...

Or was that Iggy Pop...

Anyway. The rear facility needs to be separate. Otherwise Cliff Richard lyrics will have no real meaning....

I'm gonna lock her up in a trunk so no big hunk
Can steal her away from me...



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGOU0o9K89g


And that, my friends is why Neil the Hippie said,

Well, I feel sorry for the Elephant...


It had a trunk. Just like a Mercury Cyclone.

s-l225.jpg



Geronimoooooo!!!!!
 
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GaDamn!!!

Those 6x9's are just what the car needed to turn a good audio system into a great audio system.

The 6×9's are on one channel of the LJK's amp now, and the sub is on the other channel wired in mono. The 6.5 component door speakers are now hooked up directly to the head unit. Whether the fidelity is better, or adding an extra set of speakers that add mid bass and fill in is making this difference, but man I wish there was a way to let you guys hear it.

I tightened up everything best I could back there...the rattle is just an unfortunate by-product of metal resonance in the factory quarter panel reinforcement. Now that there is wood bracing bolted directly to that, hitting the wood with a hard bump from your fist telegraphs that vibration to the metal.

And you hear it.

The fix is to probably Googe some spray foam in between the quarter and the bracing, but I'm not doing that. I guess there is probably some kind of fiberfill that I can jam in there, but again, I'm not doing that either. If this was a brand new car, with a dead quiet ride where I could appreciate the sound quality I hear when the car is off, that might be a different story. I'd be better able to hear that resonance....
But this is the Monster....the single handedly noisiest assed 6 cylinder on the planet.

If I can even hear the damn car stereo over that racket, I'll count myself fortunate.
 
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I started off today planning on getting the dirty work done. The exhaust, the drive shaft, and tighten any loose bolts that I have " temped", so I can be done with that crap.

That plan went to sht just as soon as I tried to stick the driveshaft yoke into the transmission.
It wouldn't fit. And it wasn't going to. Something in the tail shaft was restricting it.

That required that I remove the tail shaft housing, and see. I knew that it was gonna be the bushing. It was. The thing was so tight, I'd have never got the freakin thing to work. I beat out the bushing and measured it. It was exactly the same size as the yoke. And it wouldn't slide over the yoke,...it had been crushed too tightly.

Now I gotta find a new one. That was easy. It still cost me an hour. I get home and check the fit, slides over the yoke with ease.
I install the bushing, and try to slide the yoke into the tail shaft housing...won't fit.

I end up having to hone the damn thing with a brake hone before it'll fit,.....but finally I manage.

Whether or not I have fcked it up by doing that is another wait and see....I replaced the old bushing because the tail shaft leaked, and the worn out bushing may have allowed the drive shaft yoke to wallow around. After I get it going will be the tell tale.

After getting the driveshaft installed, I move on to the trans mount. The bolt holes are 3/8" off to one side. I can manhandle the tail shaft over enough to get the bolts in, but something is wrong, and I gotta fix it. The culprit has to be the engine mounts, I have to have them backwards. So I put a jack under the front of the engine, unbolt the mounts ( no easy job with that damn header in place)
I attempt to swap them,....no way in hell. I put them back.

I get back under the car, check the bolt alignment of the trans mount,...it's still off.

Again I remove the mounts...I think maybe I'll pull the tail shaft mount into line with the bolt holes, and maybe the mounts will swap.
Again,.....no way in hell. I put them back,......again.:nonono:

This time around, I pull the tail shaft into line, bolt it up, tighten the engine mounts, and let the engine settle into place.
I ain't messing with it anymore.

I bolt the driver seat in. It's in for good.

I have to cut 1/4" off the end of the studs to get the wheel to bolt up. I do that, I round them off so the lugs will start correctly, and I bolt the wheels on.....Again with a blind eye turned directly at the new wheel. It takes twice as much weight to balance the new wheel as the one I have that I was able to keep. I'm also done fcking with that.. If this wheel is bad I'm quite sure I'll blow a gasket to the point of heart failure.

The shifter is gonna need adjusting,....there isn't a positive " click" in every gear...I hope that I haven't made the shifter boot too tight that it restricts the full movement of the shifter...id hate to have to hack that thing up.

No reason for pics,...it's everything that you've seen before. The cars still in the air, I'm still not done, and if I keep having to redo sht, it'll take for freaking ever to get that way:nonono:
 
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Your saying it takes a lot of weight to balance the wheel/tire? Some new tires have a color dot near the bead, we line one dot up to the valve stem (can't remember what colors, I think it's red or maybe yellow) , if it takes a large amount of weight to balance we spin the tire on the rim so the dot is opposite the valve stem, usually that takes care of the problem.
not that your going to do this now but for future reference.
 
I woulda spun the wheel with no tire to check the runout and the imbalance. Of course, *I* woulda had my POS back together and driving 2 years ago. I actually said, I have 2 weeks off at Christmas. I should go get the tag renewed. I aint done :poo: to it since around Thanksgiving and with my tax return situation, I probably won't get back around to it until NEXT Christmas.
 
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I woulda spun the wheel with no tire to check the runout and the imbalance. Of course, *I* woulda had my POS back together and driving 2 years ago. I actually said, I have 2 weeks off at Christmas. I should go get the tag renewed. I aint done :poo: to it since around Thanksgiving and with my tax return situation, I probably won't get back around to it until NEXT Christmas.
I guess I just figured that it would be right after this many times. I took the wheel down the street to a tire store. I figured that they'd have a machine like ours,....guess I was wrong.
It's kinda like knowing you have something wrong with you but not going to the doctor to find out.......I don't want to hear it.
 
I would definitely run it on the balancer without the tire. Would be :poo:ty if your tire has been the culprit this whole time.
It's not the tire...the wheels were checked for run out. The one I sent back needed 255 grams of weight on the inside, and 95 grams of weight on the outside.
This was checked without a tire mounted..
That much weight in grams converts to 3/4 of a pound....The equivalent of a can of soup glued to the inside of the wheel.
The new wheel needed 4.5 oz. Iirc,...and that is supposed to be bad I'm thinking.
 
So,.....Steve is considering buying two complete 351s....one runs normally, and the other spins backwards...maybe I'll buy the reverse rotation one from him, and rig it to drive a reverse rotation prop from an airboat, and install it in the trunk now that all of that rear radiator junk is gone.
Then I'll have to rig up a big, giant fan under the car using belts and pullies geared to spin at 3 times engine speed with the sole objective being lift. I'm not looking for full fledge "flight" per se'......I just wanna be able to kinda.. "hop" over other cars in my way.

I'll be ragin' up on some slow assed Kia, and I'll push the hop button...the 351 comes on, spools that fan up to full speed, and the whole freakin' Monster just leaps over that sht....

I can see this happening...as long as the damn hairless cat stays out from underneath the thing during testing...that could be a bad thing.
 
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A couple pages back you mentioned a power inverter. I had one in my convertible. One my way back from Alabama to Maryland my stock quadrant stripped right over the line in South Carolina. I only had 60 bucks on me so I dashed in a Home Depot and bought screws and a corded drill.

I sat out in the parking lot and screwed a bunch of screws to hold the pawl on the quadrant and duct taped that crap. When I went back in the store to return the drill they asked if I had used it. I said, " How ? I drive that convertible mustang and never left the parking lot ". The look on the guys face was priceless. They gave me my money back and I was back on the road for about 30 minutes. The crap broke and I drove back with no clutch...11hrs to Baltimore.

MORALS OF THE STORY​

Things come in handy when you least expect it. Carry more than 60 bucks on a multistate trip. Screws and duct tape don't fix everything. Sometimes ya gotta say " ef it " and drive it like ya stole it.
 
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Well...went down for a few minutes to stare at the car.
I decided to try and adjust the shifter. As I feared, the newly made shifter cover was restricting the full rearward movement of the shifter. Everything depends on the shifter being able to go fully into low gear.

I had to hack up my beautiful cover.

I needed to cut a 1/4" chunk out of the rear to get the shifter back all the way, and leave room to spare. It would've went w/o incident, except the required cut got too close to the screw hole, and it broke. It left an uneven cut at the back of the shifter cover.
If you didn't know it, you wouldn't even see it.

But I know it.

I don't care, I'm not that concerned. The important part is that the shifter now runs smoothly through all gears. Nice solid clicks, and when checking the selector lever on the trans,......each gear that clicks on the shifter is dead on on the trans.

I'm done with that.
 
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You could get a chuck of 4x4 wood post and cut/sand it to shape so that you have a solid piece...

I shaped my sons General Lee pinewood derby car with my mitre saw and orbital sander last year. Mail me your basic shape and I’ll Make it for ya. Never valued my fingers much anyway.
 
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You could get a chuck of 4x4 wood post and cut/sand it to shape so that you have a solid piece...

I shaped my sons General Lee pinewood derby car with my mitre saw and orbital sander last year. Mail me your basic shape and I’ll Make it for ya. Never valued my fingers much anyway.
Nope, can't be a solid piece. Has to be able to get past the gigantic shifter handle, and still be as small as possible at the handle base.
 
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