CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
11,854
12,801
234
62
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
I bought a JDM complete 2 jz expecting a turn key engine, only needing maybe a new water pump, a new timing belt, a new oil pump, an oil pan fab, and doing whatever was required to adapt my existing 4R70 to the engine.

All of that changed the day the engine arrived.

Building an oil pan was an easy enough modification for me, and in the grand scheme only cost me materials..so, let’s say 50 bucks.

But,...the oil pump...cost 250.00.

Getting the timing belt off was also easy enough, but getting the gears off required a serious impact, and the intake cam spun multiple times by accident...I was concerned that I had jammed the valves, and a leak down test confirmed significant cylinder leakage, so I took the head to a shop to have the valves checked and reground........250 bucks.

While the head was off, I figured I’d upgrade the head gasket...150.00
I figured I’d upgrade the fasteners..150.00

At that time I noticed significant pitting in the deck surface of the block. One guy told me that that was common on these engines, and not to worry about it.

I purchased a new intake, 550.00, a new exhaust, 450.00; New LQ9 coils, new plug wires, and new coil connectors..220.00
I just purchased a bracket so that I could mount those coils...125.00
After doing some reading, I learn that the engine will need significantly bigger injectors and a fuel system to go with it.
So I buy new 1000 cc Bosch injectors, and a new Aeromotive 340 LPH pump and a dash line to feed it..600.00; the new turbo manifold has a 50mm wastegate flange, so I buy a new 50 mm wastegate for 200.00
.

The intake interfered with the old Cobra brake booster, so I converted the thing over to manual...Although there was a firewall adapter available to allow me to mount it, it positioned the thing in the stock location, and now that I had modified the brake pedal for the manual brakes...the stock location was way too low.

So I built a mount block, and cover to locate the master cylinder properly. 75.00 ( including the piece that I bought that was wrong that I ended up using as a jig to hold the one I was building in the right place)

I decided to add back the A2W intercooler that I used to have, only I had sold all of that stuff when I decided to convert the old engine over to slow-assed N/A. Now, I had to buy it all back. It’s now temporarily hanging in place...new I/C = 150; New water reservoir 70 bucks...

I spends hours trying to adapt the transmission over to the engine. I also manage to throw away 200 trying to do that. I end up having to send the converter away to have it modified to fit. It cost 300.00
It still don’t fit. I have to add 3/16-1/4” spacers to the converter feet so that the converter won’t jam against the flexplate bolts...which it’s doing now.

And that brings me back around to the block...I looked more closely at the pitting, and called Cometic for advice. Dude says if I plan to lay into the engine with boost, I need to have a smooth deck to guarantee a good gasket seal...

I have to disassemble a running engine so that I can have the block decked, and have the thing honed so I can put fresh rings on it...

Anybody adding all this sht up?
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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$2695 just adding up in my head (there is not a lot of room in my head) so I could have missed something. And it's still in pieces on the floor. That LJK is looking out the side window wondering if he is next!
 

95BlueStallion

Drop into my dm’s gurrrrrl
10 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
5,475
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Bummer dude. In the end, do you put a price on attaining your goal of a sweet 1 off custom car? I don’t think you do. Sucks while its happening, but time goes by and you don’t miss the money.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Smear some JB weld on it :runaway:


Just joking. That all sucks....but it will be nice and reliable in the end. I hope you don't have to take it to the first guy that did the head.
 

xecute

Active Member
Just a final post as a Ford guy who will always love the great work you do.

I' m not a Toyota in line six guy at all,

even though I have a whole bunch of all wheel drive twin cam variable valve timing 4 and 5 valve per cylinder Tojos and Neesans, and Suzkukis too

but hey, opinions are like belly buttoms and a-holes, and people with d!c|<s......what I know is that your gonna do this and its gonna be epic my man!


Thankfully Toyota saw sense and used the B58 BMW engine.

The bellhousing creation is basically Super T10 Borg Warner, which is what the old FMX Detriot Gear based BW Model 8 derived base the AOD used.

Soo, check out the video, and make your transmission guy do the work to fit it all up. Very good ideas you've got, Mike.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzgzSnYDvz4


119.jpg


151.jpg


212.jpg



Good fortune with this.


From X, aka Deano not ever a Bimmer or Toyo or Nissan guy but Well wisher.


Nail it dude!
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
11,854
12,801
234
62
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
Just a final post as a Ford guy who will always love the great work you do.

I' m not a Toyota in line six guy at all,

even though I have a whole bunch of all wheel drive twin cam variable valve timing 4 and 5 valve per cylinder Tojos and Neesans, and Suzkukis too

but hey, opinions are like belly buttoms and a-holes, and people with d!c|<s......what I know is that your gonna do this and its gonna be epic my man!


Thankfully Toyota saw sense and used the B58 BMW engine.

The bellhousing creation is basically Super T10 Borg Warner, which is what the old FMX Detriot Gear based BW Model 8 derived base the AOD used.

Soo, check out the video, and make your transmission guy do the work to fit it all up. Very good ideas you've got, Mike.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzgzSnYDvz4


119.jpg


151.jpg


212.jpg



Good fortune with this.


From X, aka Deano not ever a Bimmer or Toyo or Nissan guy but Well wisher.


Nail it dude!
Well,.on my birthday and all, I get a visit from the Easter Island Bunny.
( I got no clue where the Easter Islands actually are,..but I figure they gotta be somewhere in the Southern Hemisphere)

I have successfully adapted a 4r70 to the tail of my 2j, I just gotta finish it up before I post pics of the goofy assed lookin thing.

I’ll just say this about that:

As I do with all of my creations, every atrocity that I make gets a nick name..this thing will be no different. Until it’s done however, it’ll stay out of sight,..but I’m thinking, I’m gonna call the thing the Iron Maiden...and the torque converter is the tortured soul trapped inside.

Maybe I’ll be able to post pics of the thing on Sunday,..depends on whether or not this freakin place makes me work on Saturday.
 

CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
11,854
12,801
234
62
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
The new bell housing, ( aka the Iron Maiden) is basically a bird cage that bolts between the back of the 2j, and the newly cut up 4R70w. Albeit that this “ bird cage” is made to hold a thermo-nuclear bird, ( crisscrossed 3/16” bar).
But....It’s still an open cage. Personally, I see no reason to close it in, but I understand the potential risk should something come apart at some stupid rpm. At the same time,......Like what?

I have never seen a failure of a flexplate or torque converter that resulted in anything trying to blow up and at the same time, blow some part of my foot off..But that's just me.

Has anybody else?

It seems to me if I leave it open, I'll have air movement around the converter, and that would be better than sealing it up in that regard...but itll also allow any fluid that may leak from a seal to paint the underside of the trans tunnel as well. So it all comes down to a few pro/cons..and that would be the topic of discussion for the motley crew.
 

trebor3170

mine usually gets hard with the car on
May 31, 2019
77
21
18
61
Salisbury, MD
How easy would it be for things to fall into the open areas and get stuck in the flex plate or starter. Like a bolt or socket etc?
Or rocks and stuff from underneath? I'd close it in, to keep stuff in, and to keep stuff out. Back in the 70's I had a Ford 2L ohc 4cyl, (you know what car it was in:ack:, hey, I was a broke ass college student) that I tried to run without the timing belt cover, after replacing the belt twice in something like 6 months, I put the cover back, there is a reason the OEMs close everything up.
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
Dec 26, 2016
983
699
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Cordova, TN
If nothing else, not having seen pictures, just wrap the Maiden with some light gauge sheet metal to keep debris and fluids (you know something is going to leak) contained somewhat. Probably not going to stop high speed exit debris, but you're not running a transbrake, so like you said, likelihood of failure is minimal. And you can always add bionic feet.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
4,674
3,927
183
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It's not a race car. I doubt you'll spin it above 8k. Making a light weight shield for keeping debris out of that area and keeping any leaks contained seems like the best idea. I've never seen a torque converter or flex plate grenade. I've seen flex plates cracked.... also seen converters cracked. Cracks can lead to dissaster depending on where they are. The great interweb has pics of blown out converters and damaged bellhousings. Mostly Mopar stuff with a few chevys mixed in. Bunch of chevy transmission failures taking chunks out the trans tunnel.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
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I bought a JDM complete 2 jz expecting a turn key engine, only needing maybe a new water pump, a new timing belt, a new oil pump, an oil pan fab, and doing whatever was required to adapt my existing 4R70 to the engine.

All of that changed the day the engine arrived.

Building an oil pan was an easy enough modification for me, and in the grand scheme only cost me materials..so, let’s say 50 bucks.

But,...the oil pump...cost 250.00.

Getting the timing belt off was also easy enough, but getting the gears off required a serious impact, and the intake cam spun multiple times by accident...I was concerned that I had jammed the valves, and a leak down test confirmed significant cylinder leakage, so I took the head to a shop to have the valves checked and reground........250 bucks.

While the head was off, I figured I’d upgrade the head gasket...150.00
I figured I’d upgrade the fasteners..150.00

At that time I noticed significant pitting in the deck surface of the block. One guy told me that that was common on these engines, and not to worry about it.

I purchased a new intake, 550.00, a new exhaust, 450.00; New LQ9 coils, new plug wires, and new coil connectors..220.00
I just purchased a bracket so that I could mount those coils...125.00
After doing some reading, I learn that the engine will need significantly bigger injectors and a fuel system to go with it.
So I buy new 1000 cc Bosch injectors, and a new Aeromotive 340 LPH pump and a dash line to feed it..600.00; the new turbo manifold has a 50mm wastegate flange, so I buy a new 50 mm wastegate for 200.00
.

The intake interfered with the old Cobra brake booster, so I converted the thing over to manual...Although there was a firewall adapter available to allow me to mount it, it positioned the thing in the stock location, and now that I had modified the brake pedal for the manual brakes...the stock location was way too low.

So I built a mount block, and cover to locate the master cylinder properly. 75.00 ( including the piece that I bought that was wrong that I ended up using as a jig to hold the one I was building in the right place)

I decided to add back the A2W intercooler that I used to have, only I had sold all of that stuff when I decided to convert the old engine over to slow-assed N/A. Now, I had to buy it all back. It’s now temporarily hanging in place...new I/C = 150; New water reservoir 70 bucks...

I spends hours trying to adapt the transmission over to the engine. I also manage to throw away 200 trying to do that. I end up having to send the converter away to have it modified to fit. It cost 300.00
It still don’t fit. I have to add 3/16-1/4” spacers to the converter feet so that the converter won’t jam against the flexplate bolts...which it’s doing now.

And that brings me back around to the block...I looked more closely at the pitting, and called Cometic for advice. Dude says if I plan to lay into the engine with boost, I need to have a smooth deck to guarantee a good gasket seal...

I have to disassemble a running engine so that I can have the block decked, and have the thing honed so I can put fresh rings on it...

Anybody adding all this sht up?

The alternative is having you out on the streets looking for things to do to occupy your days. :oops:
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
11,854
12,801
234
62
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
The alternative is having you out on the streets looking for things to do to occupy your days. :oops:
No chance of that. If there wasn't a car to work on, It'd be the house...when there's no car in a garage, I do stuff to the house. Once all the stuff is done to the house that needs doing, I buy a project car, and then neglect the house....
It's a vicious circle.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
SN Certified Technician
Nov 29, 1999
11,854
12,801
234
62
Birmingham, al
m.imdb.com
I ordered a replacement flex plate last week. For those paying attention, the converter guy built the converter to fit the non-turbo version of this engine, and that meant that the bolt circle was about 1" smaller in diameter than the turbo version. There are used flex plates for a non turbo 2jz all over the place for about 50 bucks,...so that's what I ordered.
I get a box yesterday, and I look at it. From the outside, it's way too small to have a flex plate inside it. I have to think if I ordered anything else that could possibly be in a box that small,....nothing comes to mind. I check the shipping label, ....it's from the place I ordered the flex plate from all right...something ain't right.

Since I don't know anything about this engine, I start worrying the maybe the flex plate for a non turbo 2jz is way smaller..I open the box, and there's a flex plate inside allright, but it's tiny...about the size of a dinner plate.

I'm pissed...I have to have the correct flex plate so that the converter will bolt up properly..I've had to hog the holes open on my existing flex plate, and as many times as I've cut and welded on it, I'm just not wanting to even consider using that thing...I stomp down the stairs with my dinner-flex-plate, wanting to see just how much smaller this damn thing is compared to the correct one..

I size the thing up....the converter's gonna fit...I put it against my flex plate.......it's the exact same size... :rolleyes: