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That sucks. The converter fits...but the flex plate doesn't bolt up. Is there a way you can cut the center out of the turbo version and bolt it to the non turbo flex plate ?
 
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So,..I gotta make do. I have a converter that fits a non-turbo flex plate, a non turbo flex plate that the converter will bolt up to, but won't fit the engine,..and a poor butchered up, and patched together flex plate that fits both.
I have no choice but to make it work.

I had to work on Saturday so nothing happened on that day. Today I managed to eek out a few hours before being married took precedence.

I feel. like I'll never get this done.

But, this is where I am nonetheless:
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The iron maiden...still needing an additional 1/4" plate welded to the front of it where it bolts to the block. I'll have to duplicate the flange that is currently welded in front and weld that to the existing frame. Then, to add the necessary 1/8" of travel for the converter, I'll add seven pieces of strap to the back of the IM to space the trans back,..then,..I'll add 16 ga. Plate between the triangles that make up the cage, and call this thing done.

I had to make my own firewall block to raise the master cylinder. It's an ugly little bastard..
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He needed to be covered up
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And when you bolt it on the firewall, it all goes together like peas and carrots.
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It stands to reason that I wouldn't have done that if I didnt have to, but after modifying the brake pedal as much as I did, It was necessary.
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If you look closely, you'll notice a lug nut...not being used to hold a wheel on.

And finally,....when considering the big picture.
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So much of this junk has been done for weeks now, but I can't get past the damn transmission. I think I'm close to getting it figured out...
All I know is I'm getting tired of getting nowhere.

Once I'm done with the transmission, I'll put the engine back on a stand, and take the thing apart. So it can be decked,..so I can get rid of this pitting.
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And that's all the news that's fit to tell.
 
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The work you are going through is nothing compared to all the work that went into the previous engine. I don't think you'll have one problem out of that 100lb bell housing. Lakewood could've made you one for 2k. I think you've saved yourself some money there.

Soon you'll be doing smoking tire drive bys again. This time without the fear of breaking an irreplaceable part.

Wish I had the skills I see in here. I still don't even have tanks for my welder.
 
The work you are going through is nothing compared to all the work that went into the previous engine. I don't think you'll have one problem out of that 100lb bell housing. Lakewood could've made you one for 2k. I think you've saved yourself some money there.

Soon you'll be doing smoking tire drive bys again. This time without the fear of breaking an irreplaceable part.

Wish I had the skills I see in here. I still don't even have tanks for my welder.
Believe it or not, the bellhousing is really light. Right now, I'm gonna guess under ten pounds.
 
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That looks good, but I wonder how much torque it will handle. It seems kind of light consider steel cans are 1/4" steel and the factory cast aluminum bell housing on a turbo 400 is at least 3/16".
It's about the angles. By the time this is finished, the plate that bolts to the block will be 3/8" thick. The tabs that bolt to the front pump are 1/4", and the angles are made with 3/16" bar that will be plated with 16 ga. Steel.

I'm not the least bit concerned about its strength,..it's always the little things like...
"How far off in degrees it is from true center" i.e. Is it shifted/tweaked/misaligned, or twisted in anyway that will cause something to fail as a result?
 
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What do I know. Professionals said the Titanic was unsinkable. It wasn't. They made unannounced mods to her sister ships, which evidently weren't enough to keep them from sinking. Moral of the story, don't drive the monster into a body of water.
 
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I think it will be plenty strong. The 100bl bell housing thing was an exaggeration. That is my favorite part of this whole 2j swap so far. It's a masterpiece that only the few here will ever see. When its plated it'll look like part of a military stealth vehicle. If Tesla had a designer like you working on that concept truck it would actually be a hit.
 
As if these past few pages haven't been an eye opener to the pitfalls of one of these engines, just try joining one of the engine specific forums to ask questions of the "experts".

Every forum I looked at this morning is a Ghost town..The last time a 2jz GTE VVTI engine was last in a Supra was in 1998.
But...go to You tube, and you've got dozens of guys doing this or that to this engine.....there's still nobody to ask a question though.

Go to eBay....there are so freakin many used 2jz GTE VVTI engines for sale, you'd have to think the cars are as common as 6 cylinder new edge mustangs...there are dozens of them being offered for sale. You'd never think that this glut of 2jzgte is from a car that hasn't been produced in 30 years.
How are there so many 50-60k mile Toyota Aristo's that were last produced in 2011 to pull these engines from?

I wish I had better video equipment, and some idea of how I'd format the video( and I wasn't camera shy in front of the stupid thing) ..Id do a weekly series revolving around this swap into a domestic vehicle ( i.e. My ford). The problem is, I've moved along already, and a lot of the hurdles have been dealt with. Not solved by any stretch, but there is a course of action.

I just need a freakin Chilton manual, but those things are unobtanium. I have to make do with the free uploaded tech manuals you can get onlie, or pay 180.00 for an original Toyota service manual. The longer it takes me to get this thing back together, the greater the likelihood that I'll put it back together wrong.
3 or 4 times.
 
Buy the Toyota manual for sure . The whole 50-60k was a law in Japan where I believe they wanted the engine over hauled with proof at that Milage . Don’t quote me on that but that’s why they all seem to be advertised at that .
 
Buy the Toyota manual for sure . The whole 50-60k was a law in Japan where I believe they wanted the engine over hauled with proof at that Milage . Don’t quote me on that but that’s why they all seem to be advertised at that .

Waaaah??? Shelby County TN (Memphis) did away with even BASIC vehicle inspections a few years ago because of the cost and if they kept doing it, they would be required to add emissions checks and couldn't pay for all that. So half the cars on the road have only 1 working brake light, IF Lucky. I could imagine the big collective F U these folks would say to MANDATORY engine overhauls!

:suicide:
 
I had to look this up as I'd never heard this before - it seems it has to do with their inspections, which can run 2-3K every few years, which doesn't seem like THAT much when you consider what we pay for vehicle property taxes in SC, and also what it costs to buy a new car what with depreciation.

Anyway, for your reading pleasure: https://japaneseusedengines.net/Pages/Why-Import-from-Japan
This seems more likely - they drive not many miles, so a 50K engine might be 10 years old: https://forums.mwerks.com/showthrea...vers-have-to-retire-their-car-after-50K-miles
 
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