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What do I know. Professionals said the Titanic was unsinkable. It wasn't. They made unannounced mods to her sister ships, which evidently weren't enough to keep them from sinking. Moral of the story, don't drive the monster into a body of water.
Titanic had two sister ships. The Olympic didn't sink, she was scrapped in 1936. The Britannic hit a mine, she never stood a chance.
 
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Exactly two months ago today, I was toying with the two different plans of attack to adapt the 4r70 to the Tooge.
I got some time on Thursday, and again on Sunday to try and get this thing finished, but I'm here to say it is not.

Two freakin months working every spare minute I have to try and get this fckin issue solved..... :suicide: ....Every other part of my personality paints me as a " High D" . Controlling, easily bored, impatient, perfectionist, who will not accept the status quo...

But here I am....Day 60...still working on the same.......freakin.......thing......
 
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I have been not following to closely but this adapter concerns me.
Dont worry about that pitting on the deck just put it together. That thing will be torn apart before long when you take out the rear main from transmission missalignment. You will be able to deck it and line bore at the same time:nice:. Please prove me wrong Mike!
Scott
 
well Scott, I guess the only way to prove you wrong, would be to try it and see.

I can see how you'd be concerned after I cut the side of a 250 open, adapted a different head, made a SBF timing chain and harmonic fit, and then ran the engine to 6250rpm.
If it wasn't for the fact that the machine shop,...using their " precision machining processes" gouged the cylinder on the first set of sleeves, and finished the cylinders with taper, and then overbored the engine to death to accomodate the second set of "too big" sleeves trying to fix their first fck up.....all of my less than precision practices would still be running today,.... I'm thinking.

I'm letting the converter pilot center the transmission into the crank. I realize that even a small mismatch will put pressure on the combo one way, or the other...but since they don't make 2j to 4r adapters...i guess I'll have to be the one to try.
 
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Mike I’ll bet if you never had the head off you’d have never had an issue . BUT like you I would’ve fixed it too . Either way . These things are potent and if the converter is on the car will be a rocket even at the little 500 you want to make which is no sweat
 
Mike I’ll bet if you never had the head off you’d have never had an issue . BUT like you I would’ve fixed it too . Either way . These things are potent and if the converter is on the car will be a rocket even at the little 500 you want to make which is no sweat
I wasn't planning on pulling the head until the Intake cam spun while I was trying to loosen the cam gear. I thought I had bent valves cause I couldn't get a good cylinder seal...Nonetheless, now that the head is off I'm decking the block honing the cylinders putting new rings on and possibly new bearings..

I'll send the Cometic gasket back, and get a thicker one to offset the head milling, and block decking...500 hp may be small HP goals for this engine, but doing what I'm doing will guarantee me a reliable 500 hp,...and that's the main thing with me.

I'm not gonna miss another Crusin the Coast next October.
 
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I wasn't planning on pulling the head until the Intake cam spun while I was trying to loosen the cam gear. I thought I had bent valves cause I couldn't get a good cylinder seal...Nonetheless, now that the head is off I'm decking the block honing the cylinders putting new rings on and possibly new bearings..

I'll send the Cometic gasket back, and get a thicker one to offset the head milling, and block decking...500 hp may be small HP goals for this engine, but doing what I'm doing will guarantee me a reliable 500 hp,...and that's the main thing with me.

I'm not gonna miss another Crusin the Coast next October.
I’ve been dying to make it to oc as well just hasn’t panned out yet . I’m going to try for next year too
 
well Scott, I guess the only way to prove you wrong, would be to try it and see.

From now on, I will be calling you DH.

D85E8302-86C5-4C84-87AC-7E6E79BC9A52.jpeg
 
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Well....:bang:

The Iron Maiden is on the shelf,..We’ll call that attempt #3.
The new path will use a plate bolted to the removeable Toyota Bell, and a plate bolted to the front pump, with whatever remains of the gap between the two filled in with whatever thickness steel, and then welded together.
The Iron Maiden might still work, but even though I built the block plate one hole at a time, welding each segment that was bolted to the block, by the time the whole thing was welded, there was enough movement to cause bolt hole misalignment.
Bolt hole misalignment means that the bellhousing is no longer centered. An off-center bellhousing will lead to some premature part failure........blah,....blah......blah.

So,..by attempting to use the A 340 Toyota bell, all of the bellhousing bolts are done. The bell fits the dowels, the bolts fit the holes. The back of the bell is drilled to bolt to the a340,....all I gotta do is make a plate to fit that pattern.
Then,....I make the “L” brackets that will bolt to the front pump, and.........weld those to that plate that is bolted on the back of the bellhousing....

Seems simple enough.......

Right?:shrug:
 
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Yeah Mike I'm glad your abandoning the weldment bell housing, my concern not only maintaining center during fabrication, but also what kind of flex during full torque flogs.
Did something like this but I used a hemi clutch can to a Waukesha in a Oliver tractor. I had the back of the block bolt holes and clutch can CMM'd. Then put it in CAD and made my adapter, I also had to reclock the starter not only rotating the bolt holes but also moved it to align better with the bell housing. Good planning in CAD made for successful installation. I did plot on paper to make certain I was on the right track before cutting metal.

Cant you use the Toyota bell and make a adapter to fit your transmission even if its thick aluminum plate welded on in the back? It almost seems like if you cut both bells in half and welded them together, obviously jig welded to hold centers.
 
Well....:bang:

The Iron Maiden is on the shelf,..We’ll call that attempt #3.
The new path will use a plate bolted to the removeable Toyota Bell, and a plate bolted to the front pump, with whatever remains of the gap between the two filled in with whatever thickness steel, and then welded together.
The Iron Maiden might still work, but even though I built the block plate one hole at a time, welding each segment that was bolted to the block, by the time the whole thing was welded, there was enough movement to cause bolt hole misalignment.
Bolt hole misalignment means that the bellhousing is no longer centered. An off-center bellhousing will lead to some premature part failure........blah,....blah......blah.

So,..by attempting to use the A 340 Toyota bell, all of the bellhousing bolts are done. The bell fits the dowels, the bolts fit the holes. The back of the bell is drilled to bolt to the a340,....all I gotta do is make a plate to fit that pattern.
Then,....I make the “L” brackets that will bolt to the front pump, and.........weld those to that plate that is bolted on the back of the bellhousing....

Seems simple enough.......

Right?:shrug:

And just like that...

CE7EAAA8-BEDC-4D01-9EC0-41B5A54A215C.jpeg
 
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