Wrong! Boost all of the thingsDid it break accidentally, 'accidentally', or with the proper application of force?
You know, a 351 wouldn't leak boost (because it doesn't need it)
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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- Mar 2, 2015
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Are you against plexi glass ? I'm sure there's a thickness that would work for you. Then again....with the heat and pressure might not be a good idea. How about a hinged top that could be opened during shows and locked down before you leave ?
It broke trying to pry the bitch out of the 3m adhesive tape. I used the tape because it solved two problems.Did it break accidentally, 'accidentally', or with the proper application of force?
You know, a 351 wouldn't leak boost (because it doesn't need it
1. It helped hold the glass. All other adhesives let the glass lift.
2. It allowed me to control how it looked. Standard silicones smooged out when the glass was tightened down.
The glass was tempered. It chipped, and left glass " dust" in the adhesive. It isnt worth the hassle.
As for the 351...
I'll take "having to force feed my noisy ass six over any Windsor v8" for 1000 Alex.
Yeah,...I'm against the "see through" .
Think of it like driving around with a dirty windshield.........all the time.
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If you're going to cover it up might as well put that cool a5$ iron lung you built a whole ago. Guess that would take more work...the throttle cable...that sensor thingy...piping...
That would be the more painful road. Someone will enjoy your ramblings about those ITBs hiding under there.
I stood listening to all your rambling while the wife chased the free water bottle truck. 100 degree heat and all. ( we know you don't remember ) Your creations are as amazing in person as they are to read about.
I wish i had a show of all the cool forum builds that go on. Publicity for the forums and the folks that put in a this work.
That would be the more painful road. Someone will enjoy your ramblings about those ITBs hiding under there.
I stood listening to all your rambling while the wife chased the free water bottle truck. 100 degree heat and all. ( we know you don't remember ) Your creations are as amazing in person as they are to read about.
I wish i had a show of all the cool forum builds that go on. Publicity for the forums and the folks that put in a this work.
Ok then,....it's Friday night...and I'm not drinkin...maybe I'll smoke one of them weed stick things......then again,...maybe I won't.
My choices for the lid material comes down to what's available, what I can work with, and what I can make look good.
If I do it in steel, I'll build a 1/8" thick frame that'll lay inside the box channel. 16 ga steel will be perimeter welded to that ( I'll have to control the warping and twisting) once that's squared up it'll get holes drilled in it and I'd rosette weld ribs to match the valve cover from underneath. The existing retaining frame will be used to hold it down.
It'll be heavy. ( relatively speaking) I'll probably have to paint the fins in silver...wait for it to dry, mask off the top of the fins, and paint the thing wrinkle black ( like the valve cover)
If I do it in aluminum, I'll butt weld 2 pieces of 2" wide 1/8" flat bar together. The actual weld will be underneath. Like the steel option, I'll drill holes and rosette weld fins to match the valve cover. I have a spool gun...it works kinda ok....kinda. Putting the fins on top will thicken the thing to 1/4 inch at the sealing flange,...I think it'll actually be the easier of the two things to make.
Once done, I'll mask off the top of the fins, paint the thing wrinkle black and leave the raw aluminum alone.
The third option requires I wait...I have a piece of 1/4" plate cut to size. Drilling that 1/4 aluminum so that I can rosette weld fins on top of that will be difficult, I'll probably drill and tap taper head screws into the plate to hold the fins onto the aluminum. It'll be 3/8" thick compared to the other two options that'll be 1/4" thick arounfpd the sealing surface.
I got some tiny assed silicone vacuum tubing. I plan to use it as a gasket. Like a big o ring kinda. I'll lay the thing inside the channel, and put the plate(s) on top of that vacuum tubing.. Then put the retaining plate on and screw the thing down.
If the tubing works, I'll never have to worry about getting the damn top off the box in the future.
It's a problem in of itself though...there are only 5 anchor points along the sides for the retaining frame. The hold down screws will probably create a series of high and low areas in the frame and the seal will be compromised ( think like what happens to a valve cover)
You may be thinking...why not just do that with the glass?.......I'm done with the glass,..remember, it's a pain to keep clean.
My choices for the lid material comes down to what's available, what I can work with, and what I can make look good.
If I do it in steel, I'll build a 1/8" thick frame that'll lay inside the box channel. 16 ga steel will be perimeter welded to that ( I'll have to control the warping and twisting) once that's squared up it'll get holes drilled in it and I'd rosette weld ribs to match the valve cover from underneath. The existing retaining frame will be used to hold it down.
It'll be heavy. ( relatively speaking) I'll probably have to paint the fins in silver...wait for it to dry, mask off the top of the fins, and paint the thing wrinkle black ( like the valve cover)
If I do it in aluminum, I'll butt weld 2 pieces of 2" wide 1/8" flat bar together. The actual weld will be underneath. Like the steel option, I'll drill holes and rosette weld fins to match the valve cover. I have a spool gun...it works kinda ok....kinda. Putting the fins on top will thicken the thing to 1/4 inch at the sealing flange,...I think it'll actually be the easier of the two things to make.
Once done, I'll mask off the top of the fins, paint the thing wrinkle black and leave the raw aluminum alone.
The third option requires I wait...I have a piece of 1/4" plate cut to size. Drilling that 1/4 aluminum so that I can rosette weld fins on top of that will be difficult, I'll probably drill and tap taper head screws into the plate to hold the fins onto the aluminum. It'll be 3/8" thick compared to the other two options that'll be 1/4" thick arounfpd the sealing surface.
I got some tiny assed silicone vacuum tubing. I plan to use it as a gasket. Like a big o ring kinda. I'll lay the thing inside the channel, and put the plate(s) on top of that vacuum tubing.. Then put the retaining plate on and screw the thing down.
If the tubing works, I'll never have to worry about getting the damn top off the box in the future.
It's a problem in of itself though...there are only 5 anchor points along the sides for the retaining frame. The hold down screws will probably create a series of high and low areas in the frame and the seal will be compromised ( think like what happens to a valve cover)
You may be thinking...why not just do that with the glass?.......I'm done with the glass,..remember, it's a pain to keep clean.
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dr. Dan W.
Active Member
Stupid question: Are you going to tighten it enough to flex 3/8" aluminum?
Stupid thought: Could you make something like this? Keep it tucked away on the lower side of the plenum between cleanings, swipe as needed.
Hope you miss the worst of the weather.
It's a magnetic glass cleaner for a fish tank 
The magnetism would disrupt the positive ion airflow in boost producing a lean condition on the dark side causing the death of most if not all of the Jedi oxygen molecules guarding the fuel molecules.
The magnetism would disrupt the positive ion airflow in boost producing a lean condition on the dark side causing the death of most if not all of the Jedi oxygen molecules guarding the fuel molecules.
Dean? Is that you Dean?It's a magnetic glass cleaner for a fish tank
The magnetism would disrupt the positive ion airflow in boost producing a lean condition on the dark side causing the death of most if not all of the Jedi oxygen molecules guarding the fuel molecules.
I tried.....I really tried.
I made two separate attempts to get the glass top to work out......both times ending in a hissy fit...( both for me, and the air escaping past the gasket)
It's just a matter of fact.......
The ledge that the glass sits on isnt flat...there are dips and whoopties that cause the gasket to be ineffective. The only thing that's gonna seal this top is the same 3m tape that I've used before, or something black and gooey.
Either way..I'm not glueing the glass top down again.
I made an aluminum ribbed top. I'm happy with it. I'm gonna bed it in rtv...and call this thing done.
Its presently going through its paint process, tomorrow I'll stick it.
As for when I'll ever get to drive it again..that'll be quite a few days from now. Firstly, I'm gonna make sure that goop is completely dry before I pressure test it, ( and at the rate this sht drys that'll be days.
And...
Theres a hurricane hitting NOLA right now...itll be heading my way with days of rain..
So,...itll just have to wait.
I made two separate attempts to get the glass top to work out......both times ending in a hissy fit...( both for me, and the air escaping past the gasket)
It's just a matter of fact.......
The ledge that the glass sits on isnt flat...there are dips and whoopties that cause the gasket to be ineffective. The only thing that's gonna seal this top is the same 3m tape that I've used before, or something black and gooey.
Either way..I'm not glueing the glass top down again.
I made an aluminum ribbed top. I'm happy with it. I'm gonna bed it in rtv...and call this thing done.
Its presently going through its paint process, tomorrow I'll stick it.
As for when I'll ever get to drive it again..that'll be quite a few days from now. Firstly, I'm gonna make sure that goop is completely dry before I pressure test it, ( and at the rate this sht drys that'll be days.
And...
Theres a hurricane hitting NOLA right now...itll be heading my way with days of rain..
So,...itll just have to wait.
Moisture in the air catalyzes silicone gasket maker and makes it set quicker... Hope you enjoy the reduction in cure time....I tried.....I really tried.
I made two separate attempts to get the glass top to work out......both times ending in a hissy fit...( both for me, and the air escaping past the gasket)
It's just a matter of fact.......
The ledge that the glass sits on isnt flat...there are dips and whoopties that cause the gasket to be ineffective. The only thing that's gonna seal this top is the same 3m tape that I've used before, or something black and gooey.
Either way..I'm not glueing the glass top down again.
I made an aluminum ribbed top. I'm happy with it. I'm gonna bed it in rtv...and call this thing done.
Its presently going through its paint process, tomorrow I'll stick it.
As for when I'll ever get to drive it again..that'll be quite a few days from now. Firstly, I'm gonna make sure that goop is completely dry before I pressure test it, ( and at the rate this sht drys that'll be days.
And...
Theres a hurricane hitting NOLA right now...itll be heading my way with days of rain..
So,...itll just have to wait.
See https://www.google.com/search?sourc...j1j1......0....2j1..gws-wiz.....0.RsahajIBBio
I deal with the Miss Understood.
Today's class is Density. Vibration and the Thornbirds.
Density refers to how much one cubic foot of foam weighs; it is expressed in pounds per cubic foot (PCF). To calculate density, divide the mass or weight of an object by the total number of volume units
The lighter the material in terms of specific gravity, the more it vibrates. Think eaRthquake verses aluvial fill, then verses rock. The lighter the material, the more it amplfies vibration.
Crown class is 1.5 times the density of water (94 PCF). Same as cement grout.
Aluminum (a silica based material) is 2.70 times the density of water (167 PCF) .
Good old Birmingham City Steel is 7.87 times the density of water (488 PCF).
Steel or alloy will hold faster than glass.
As a final note. The picture was fine, but the peep show is now over.
I fixed you peep show glass portrait.
"As a footnote, I talked to our resident Kiwi a little while ago....he sounds just like the guy from the outback commercial.
( only...from way farther south)"
And the accent, yeah, its the Aussie Outback guy.
This one...
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dt_UZ0ZsuJ0
Drogheda, the fictional sheep station near the fictional Australian town of Gillanbone. As fictional as the blue racer lightning bolt that incinerated that incinerated Padraic Cleary and his five sheep dogs.
Today's class is Density. Vibration and the Thornbirds.
Density refers to how much one cubic foot of foam weighs; it is expressed in pounds per cubic foot (PCF). To calculate density, divide the mass or weight of an object by the total number of volume units
The lighter the material in terms of specific gravity, the more it vibrates. Think eaRthquake verses aluvial fill, then verses rock. The lighter the material, the more it amplfies vibration.
Crown class is 1.5 times the density of water (94 PCF). Same as cement grout.
Aluminum (a silica based material) is 2.70 times the density of water (167 PCF) .
Good old Birmingham City Steel is 7.87 times the density of water (488 PCF).
Steel or alloy will hold faster than glass.
As a final note. The picture was fine, but the peep show is now over.
I fixed you peep show glass portrait.
"As a footnote, I talked to our resident Kiwi a little while ago....he sounds just like the guy from the outback commercial.
( only...from way farther south)"
And the accent, yeah, its the Aussie Outback guy.
This one...
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dt_UZ0ZsuJ0
Drogheda, the fictional sheep station near the fictional Australian town of Gillanbone. As fictional as the blue racer lightning bolt that incinerated that incinerated Padraic Cleary and his five sheep dogs.
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It's the hardest thing for me.......waiting.
Lack of patience has ruined many an outcome with me before, but this time I got no choice but to wait...
For this sht to dry..
The goop has to set enough so that by the time I start cranking down on the retainer screws, it just doesn't blob out, and drip off into the throttle bodies..
So all I can do, it to set the new lid on top..
Set the frame on top of that...
And wait.....
Lack of patience has ruined many an outcome with me before, but this time I got no choice but to wait...
For this sht to dry..
The goop has to set enough so that by the time I start cranking down on the retainer screws, it just doesn't blob out, and drip off into the throttle bodies..
So all I can do, it to set the new lid on top..
Set the frame on top of that...
And wait.....
As I’m looking this (and it looks real nice) I’m thinking...... is there anyone out there that will make custom gaskets? Give them the measurements, they give you some gaskets...... no more goop! Just kind of thinking out loud here.
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