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That would be [awesome] but I would have been very surprised if there was one cuz...

Oh hey; How's your FEP thread? :O_o:
Heh heh...I'm sure they'd block me from even making the statement that I intend to put a Japanese engine in the car..

I think it's locked..when I came on here trying to solicit votes for ride of the month there, the one Nazi mod found out, and remove my car from consideration. I more or less told him to kiss a dick.
 
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Back on track here..I'm thinking I'm making my own bellhousing adapter...

It requires precise measurements,..precise layout,....precise execution,....it will have to be done right the first time, else wise I'll have some future, or premature driveline failure.

it'll be the hub that pilots the converter into the 2j crank that'll be the biggest problem to get made..I can't do it. And how thick it has to be will be the tip point on how thick everything else has to be.

( anybody here a machinist?)
 
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Back on track here..I'm thinking I'm making my own bellhousing adapter...

It requires precise measurements,..precise layout,....precise execution,....it will have to be done right the first time, else wise I'll have some future, or premature driveline failure.

it'll be the hub that pilots the converter into the 2j crank that'll be the biggest problem to get made..I can't do it. And how thick it has to be will be the tip point on how thick everything else has to be.

( anybody here a machinist?)

Paging @Mustang5L5 who just put some machining pics in his ATS brake thread...
 
Eh, I dunno if I can add much to this. If it was me I’d design it up in CAD, make a DWG and send it off for quote.

Too much precision needed to freehand that unless you have YEARS of experience in machining and fabrication
 
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Maybe this dude knows something:

 
I have the startings of a oil pan..
20190914_190133_zps10qf8ifi.jpg


I'm pretty proud of myself here..see the front " hump"? It's 3/16" thick and it fits like it was molded.. But it wasn't.

It was bent by me..in a vise. One little tweek at a time..

Needless to say, doing things this way takes for freakin ever...and I spent the whole day to get the engine separated, the stock pan off,..the engine mounted on a stand,..the pieces parts bought from lowes,..and get to this point.

The good thing is this engine looks perfect..no sludge of any kind. The oil screen was clean, save for a tiny bit of sucked up silicone from something in its past....
20190914_191107_zpsksscdiia.jpg


20190914_191114_zps5almpqv9.jpg



The bad thing is that I hate having to build a pan using an assembled engine. Despite my best efforts to try and keep weld spatter out of the engine,..I still worry that some little ball,of hot molten steel might get past me.

I'm confident that I'll be able to build a pan for this thing. It'll be epic.

Then transmission adapter is getting closer to being solved..after getting the factory stuff separated, and putting the engine on a stand I'm thinkin.........." Why couldn't I do the same thing I'm doing to adapt this engine stand to the 2j? If I buy like 1/2" bar stock, drill one end to fit the 2j block,.and wherever the 4r70w bell pattern ends up I cut, drill and tap that leg . So,..I make 5or 6 legs.. I bolt them to the back of the block..I bolt my 4r70 to the legs. Once I get everything adjusted,...I remove the 4 r 70, and make interconnects that tie each leg together. They get welded to each other. In essence, I build an erector set that looks like a spider web of sorts.
All I gotta do is measure some sht...I don't need no stinkin cnc...And I'll do this for less than a couple of hundred bucks.
I do need a machinist with a lathe though.
The spacer that hubs off of the 2j crank, and steps up to my converter hub OD is beyond me.. But putting a 4r70 behind a 2j isn't.
 
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I have the startings of a oil pan..
20190914_190133_zps10qf8ifi.jpg


I'm pretty proud of myself here..see the front " hump"? It's 3/16" thick and it fits like it was molded.. But it wasn't.

It was bent by me..in a vise. One little tweek at a time..

Needless to say, doing things this way takes for freakin ever...and I spent the whole day to get the engine separated, the stock pan off,..the engine mounted on a stand,..the pieces parts bought from lowes,..and get to this point.

The good thing is this engine looks perfect..no sludge of any kind. The oil screen was clean, save for a tiny bit of sucked up silicone from something in its past....
20190914_191107_zpsksscdiia.jpg


20190914_191114_zps5almpqv9.jpg



The bad thing is that I hate having to build a pan using an assembled engine. Despite my best efforts to try and keep weld spatter out of the engine,..I still worry that some little ball,of hot molten steel might get past me.

I'm confident that I'll be able to build a pan for this thing. It'll be epic.

Then transmission adapter is getting closer to being solved..after getting the factory stuff separated, and putting the engine on a stand I'm thinkin.........." Why couldn't I do the same thing I'm doing to adapt this engine stand to the 2j? If I buy like 1/2" bar stock, drill one end to fit the 2j block,.and wherever the 4r70w bell pattern ends up I cut, drill and tap that leg . So,..I make 5or 6 legs.. I bolt them to the back of the block..I bolt my 4r70 to the legs. Once I get everything adjusted,...I remove the 4 r 70, and make interconnects that tie each leg together. They get welded to each other. In essence, I build an erector set that looks like a spider web of sorts.
All I gotta do is measure some sht...I don't need no stinkin cnc...And I'll do this for less than a couple of hundred bucks.
I do need a machinist with a lathe though.
The spacer that hubs off of the 2j crank, and steps up to my converter hub OD is beyond me.. But putting a 4r70 behind a 2j isn't.
That looks like a good start there Mike, I dont know if he can help but @KZGUNS has a lathe if i am not mistaken....
 
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Wow, this is the third time today I've re-written this. As I'm writing, I'm opening another tab, and checking on things as I'm writing them here. Any other day, it's not uncommon for me to have several other pages open, and then come back to this one after I've checked on something...

Today, each time I did that this reply was gone.

So I've checked on everything now..I have my plan. I've bought my stuff.

When you look at the above pan rail pic, you'll see my dilemma. 2jz's have a big assed oil supply inlet. Almost 1". Twice the size of a standard SBF. I needed to fabricate a rear sump pickup tube. There is no stock tube I could use. The factory rear sump pan is actually more " mid sump" and was just as short as the front sump one was.
The factory makes it possible to get to the converter bolts through a rubber grommet that fills up that rectangular hole.
My pan will block that hole.
jzsump.jpg


Not so much a problem for me considering that I will have access to the converter bolts either through the factory starter hole, or the open side where the ford starter would go. ( I think I'll be able to use either one if my transmission adapter turns out like it is in my head)

So..you have to find a way to tie that hole to the rear..( which I've done..for 75 bucks)

Like I did with the monster engine, I'm gonna make a hole in the pan, and create a flange to bolt the existing stock pickup to that flange. On the outside of the pan, I'm welding a -16 bung. I'm also welding a -16 bung where that hole is in the pan rail. And then coupling those two bungs with a short piece of -16 hose.
 
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Its just not the same unless we are part of the shenanigans... I mean how am I supposed to feel belittled for my mistakes if its not in real time?
I don't know.....looking at a picture of something thats all FUBAR'd is just as wrong after the fact. It seems to me that you have to make the mistake first before anybody can berate you after.

(That's why most of the phcked up sht I do never makes it to prime time here)
 
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