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Found it:nice:
A bit ashamed to admit-I hadn’t noticed the ‘Spoiler’ decal on the front bumper before :(
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The only input I really have about the 2JZ swap is- if it was easy, would you even want to do it?
 
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Ah hell Mike........don’t bring the towel boy back from retirement!

You’ve tolerated sooooo much:poo:in this build, make it he 2jz work. It’s such a bitchin’ japanese engine.

It’ll keep the little japanese kid in nationality company.
 
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So,....I wa gonna try and make this a tech related guessing game, but the right answer is just so damn easy to guess, only the newest of noobs may have a hard time. I have been turning a blind eye to the truth for at least a couple of months since its been running hoping that it wasn't the obvious, but "the obvious" just became obvious tonight.

So...shall we begin?...( You can stop me at anytime.........hands on buzzers)

Scenario #1. *not necessarily related to the final answer......( could be there to throw you off)
The engine has a massive amount of blowby,....ever since you've had it running it's been a problem. You blame it on poor quality machine work, you blame it on poor ring seal, you blame it on inadequate crankcase ventilation. Over the years you struggle to control the blowby by continually coming up with this thing or that thing, hooked up this way or that way. Once or twice you think you have the problem solved, but that solution proves to be short lived,..and after awhile you're back to square one. The one constant is that You notice a disproportionate amount of condensation in your vent lines...( usually noticed if you ever have to unhook them when you decide that this sht ain't working) that's when a whole bunch of clear water usually pours out.

Scenario #2. You use a water meth system to add intake charge cooling, and octane boost to control detonation. You deduce that Because you are injecting a fairly large amount of water into the chamber, maybe some of that is getting past the rings and settling in the crankcase. ( but you don't know that for sure)

Scenario #3. Since you never know how full " full" is with regard to your oil level,...( Since you made the freakin pan, and have no real idea how much oil it holds ) you are always wondering if there is a certain amount of crank windage causing the oil to foam. ( there always seems to be a foamy residue on the dipstick). Always has.

Scenario #4. The recent contraption you made to control blowby works ( finally). All of the oil leaks cease. The bottom of the engine remains dry after repeated test drives, and a recent 100 mile round trip. But, ( spoiler alert! First clue) you have to remove an old contraption, because you're always making new contraptions and you have to unhook one of the vent lines...(You unhook the one that is directly attached to the pan rail.) You let the one end dangle....this Fungoo spooges out.
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* you tell yourself that that is a byproduct of the first three scenarios........you put that bitch back together.

Scenario #5. ( We're getting close to giving it away now) You notice that pressure remains in the cooling system regardless of how long it's been since the car was last ran. Each time you run it, pressure will be evident after the engine gets cool enough to open the radiator cap.

Scenario #6. For the first time since you've driven the car, oil pressure is now inconsistent. What once was a constant 60-100 psi at RPM, is now slowly dropping while cruising at 75 MPH. You pull over and check for oil leaks, you have none. MOF, you have no leaks of any kind. ( on the outside)

Final scenario. You check your water level..it appears the same.

Any guesses? * Stay tuned for the surprise ending after a word from our sponsor.
 
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Ok, let's look at a couple things here.
the splouge on the floor looks to be coolant/oil froth mix, maybe some meth mixed in :shrug:
It's in the dohicky blowby thingy hose (I think that is what you unhooked)
Oil pressure is now funky (maybe unrelated :chin)
Possible issues: too much oil, crankshaft throw is whipping oil violently around the oil pan, mixing with blowby with the water/meth mixed in causing the frothy splooge :shrug:
 
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Added fodder 1.0
Because you're a constant thinker, you're never content to leave well enough alone. Although the 7 scenarios exist, you are not thinking about any of them because you haven't discovered the aww pphuck! yet.
Added fodder 2.0
On your way home from work, and because you're concerned about the inconsistent oil pressure, you decide to cut the oil filter open, that requires a replacement oil filter and a qt of oil. You stop any buy one of each
Added fodder 3.0
You remove the filter. Chocolate milk pours out. You decide to drain all of the oil. You have three drain plugs, because you have a three sectioned oil pan. You remove one plug on the driver side sump,...oil pours out. It ain't pretty, but it's oil. Still kinda choclaty lookin, but oil nonetheless.
Added fodder 4.0
Because you've had a Meth fueled race car before, and engine oil looked like ass after only one night at the track, you tell yourself that maybe the whole water meth injection thing is doing the same here..you clean up, go to Oreillys and buy 7 Qts of crude 10/30 ( because you may have to resign yourself to more frequent oil changes for the same reason, no sense wasting money on full syn oil) when you get home, you still have two drain plugs to remove. You crawl under the car and crack the passenger side plug. And watch....and count..1,2,3,4,5 as anti-freeze pours out.


The Monster has a bad head gasket.
Anti freeze was diluting the oil.
Crankcase pressure is getting into the cooling system.
This is after a quart of antifreeze poured out of the engine.
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Weirdly enough there is plastic debris everywhere...I have no clue what in this engine is made out of plastic that managed to get into the oil system, but it was pretty thick in the filter.
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The engine is in a "What now" category..if I don't fix it, it's a giant piece of worthless sht. If I go through the hassle of replacing the head gasket while there is still this contamination floating around in the oil system,..it may be one hassle followed by another.

One things for sure, if I don't try and replace the gasket, I'm not going to the one damn show I've been waiting all year to go to, and,...if I do, and the other thing strands me 300 miles from home.....ooooooohhh.
:mad:
 
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Replace gasket so you don’t have a paper weight.
Yeah,....if it costs me the show on the coast, there's no reason to put it back together. ( it's almost like some sort of weird intervention) The 2j will be here tomorrow, or Thursday. I'll be focused on that. When you try to learn about that engine, there's a whole bunch of YouTube goobs out there claiming that they have the deal,...but when it comes to the differences between the supra engine and my aristo one...........crickets.
 
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Yeah,....if it costs me the show on the coast, there's no reason to put it back together. ( it's almost like some sort of weird intervention) The 2j will be here tomorrow, or Thursday. I'll be focused on that. When you try to learn about that engine, there's a whole bunch of YouTube goobs out there claiming that they have the deal,...but when it comes to the differences between the supra engine and my aristo one...........crickets.
On a brighter note there’s a 2j swapped 4Runner doing wheel stands and 10s at drag week. Look up drag week pics. 3’ wheel stands!
 
On a brighter note there’s a 2j swapped 4Runner doing wheel stands and 10s at drag week. Look up drag week pics. 3’ wheel stands!

After seeing that 4runner, I say go OT on getting the JayZee in that bitch. Jayzee can't be that hard to figure out, some moron in Memphis has one listed on FB Marketplace for like $1000. Sure it's a scam. It's called Tennessee JDM. Their map location is the hood.
 
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My vote is cut your losses on the Frankenstein I6. Either start diving into the 2J, or get something that mates to your 4R70W and get the car running for Cruising the Coast. Hell, you may enjoy talking about the body and interior mods for a change.
 
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A friend of mine has the Aristo in his 240z drift car. He knows them pretty well. Might be able to get him to jump in and give a little advise.
 
Well as luck would have it...
I come across this article last night:
Look at this car...kinda reminds me of another we all know and love ;)

2jzgte mated to the a340 trans using the stock intake, and a single, 67mm turbo..uses MS3pro to control, and a micro squirt through the can bus to control the trans.
( just like the one I'll have tomorrow)

I just had to talk to this guy..

Found out where he worked, he offered to share his knowledge and any tune files that he has built... ( could I possibly get the 2j swapped in place of the monster in time to go to the Coast?)
Naaaahhh that's crazy talk.
I did just get off the phone with him..he tells me he's got my back..

So,.....I got that going for me........which is nice.
 
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Wait... Does this mean that we will not know the answers to the Mystery of the Monster's Polyethylene Parasite? :O_o:
I'm afraid so...we do know that #5 had a whole bunch of gooky green water in the cylinder...
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For a fleeting moment I thought " Maybe I'll just buy another head gasket, and put it together for the rest of the year"...
Then I pulled the head.
A couple of the cylinders look like they are scored pretty bad..for an engine that has less than a thousand miles on it since it was last machined, the cylinders look like ass.

It's time to be done with the whole thing..

The Plymouth guy that I talked to wants me to put a 4l80 in the car because there are adapters to mate the 4l80 to the 2jz.
He has tune files that are torque based, and actually reduce torque between shift points so that it is easier on the trans.
At this point, I just don't know what I'm gonna use.
Using the attached A 340 is partially a problem, because the transmission has no accomodation for a drive shaft slip yoke. I'd have to fabricate something to allow for driveshaft travel/movement. One way or another,mive got a fair amount of work in front of me.

If I use My 4r70, it will require adapting to mate it to the engine,
 
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