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you can hang up the tire smoke thing....Burnouts are for the drag strip, or as a direct result of one too many Bud Lights. The only tire smoke i’m interested in making is the kind that comes off the tires from a 30 mph roll.
:cheers:

If the tires are spinning faster than forward motion generating beautiful white (or blue, pink, green, red, if you got the $$$ for fancy tires) I don't care if you slow roll from 30, 60, 90, or 150 as long as the GoPro (Or ebay imitation) has plenty of juice and a clean memory stick! Maybe picture in picture with the inside shot over your shoulder looking at the tach sitting at oh, say 7500 or more. All sounding like the best sewing machine the Rising Sun has to offer.
 
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I’m watching 2jz vids this morning..trying to get a realistic idea of where i’m gonna be power-wise with what i’ve got for bolt-on s...
From what I’m seeing, it looks like 20 psi is gonna be 600-650 whp..At those numbers, I should be well within the parameters of the things that will be a choke point that prevents the engine from anything beyond that. ( not that 650 whp, which i’m gonna guess is probably 200 more than old monster was making, isn’t gonna just blow me away)

Namely, the fuel pump, the camshafts, the cast pistons, and the 2 bar MAP sensor.

There are plenty of 2jz vids out there, Wayyy too many bang-bang-pop-pop-pop vids, with just as many others featuring manual trans guys having to lift to change gears...( that sht just don’t make no damn sense to me)

This guy blows this engine up in some other video, but in this one...he’s just driving around in a stock appearing IS 300 Lexus with the stock A 340 auto trans.

Supposedly making 660 whp at 20 psi.


Im having to smack myself to make sure this is real life.

In reality, the two “R’s” are gonna be the actual choke point here for me. Reliable and responsible. I’m not going for street hero status just to say I make xyz power on a totally stock bottom end if the cast pistons are gonna fail, and doom the whole thing to permanent jack-stand status.
So, that said, If the engine will tolerate 20 psi, And 20 psi equates to 600 whp, then.......yea for me. If 20 psi is a pipe dream, and risky business, then it’ll stay on the gate at 15 psi. Cams, and pistons are what i’ll need i’m thinking...but i’ll just have to wait and see. And as long as the car has been up in the air,....it ain’t coming back out for those upgrades anytime soon.

Famous last words......
 
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Well,
No tire smoke
No black marks on the road
No getting sideways
No fun, sounds like all he is doing is making a bunch of noise.
No I didn't watch past the 3 minute mark though, got bored.
Did I miss anything? Should I have watched the hole video?
Just say'n. :shrug:
 
Look!


I found Mothra (anti-Ghila Monster?) :jester:


1590069703893.png
 
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Well,
No tire smoke
No black marks on the road
No getting sideways
No fun, sounds like all he is doing is making a bunch of noise.
No I didn't watch past the 3 minute mark though, got bored.
Did I miss anything? Should I have watched the hole video?
Just say'n. :shrug:
Admittedly, not the most exciting of all 2jz vids out there, but he claims that power, and he has an auto trans. All of the insane power vids out there have guys getting into heathen power, then having to lift to shift..
Or other guys standing on the brake just enough to boil the tires continuously.
I intend to do neither.
I will NOT lift to shift.
I will only stand on the brake to stop.
 
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Does my avatar disappoint you?
:hail::hail::hail:


Look!


I found Mothra (anti-Ghila Monster?) :jester:


1590069703893.png


That's not Mothra, that's Snuffleupagus. In @CarMichael Angelo defense. I don't think he said he was opposed to burning tires. He was just opposed to sitting still holding down the brake doing burnouts. I think 30mph rolling burnout are ok.

Of course, he did say he didn't like to drive fun cars with a manual transmission.
 
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Just a pissed off update.

The tach wont work..I tried every freakin combo of dip switches that thing had...needle sits on zero.
The oil pressure gauge was acting weird last year...one minute pressure, the next minute nothing. Today it had pressure, and it lost it, never to return.
I hooked up a mechanical unit I had to to be sure, it reads pressure...

I may have a bad ground considering all of the gauges are tied together. But I have a working water temp, volt meter, and gas gauge...so unlikely.

The brand new radiator made exactly one heat cycle before it started leaking...

The fcking engine runs weird. Lean, then stoich. Lean/ stoich...one time it just died in the middle of normal running..

It too quiet with two muffies, and a cat. I added the second muffler when I converted the engine to NA...tying a stock 2jz to that exhaust is just too quiet. So, i removed the oval muffler at the rear..but it's not done, so I cant listen to it.

And, i gotta get a new fckin radiator, and oil pressure ga...and figure out why the tach dont work
 
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I....dont know.....maybe if you came over to my house, and I was bitchen about this radiator leak, or that non- functioning gauge or tach...you may be the type that takes each problem one at a time.
You may start with the simple stuff first.

Like: Does the gauge have power.
Maybe......let's check the fuse.
20200522_120709.jpg

Problem is,...not only is the fuse intact...it was laying on the floor.....intact.
I removed the fuse because the tilt screen for radio was constantly opening, and closing every time I keyed the engine on/ off. NOW I DONT KNOW IF THATS THE PROBLEM, CONSIDERING THE OTHER GAUGES WORK.......BUT JUST MAYBE...
So, moving on..the leaking radiator,..

You might ask me, did you spill any coolant when you were filling the thing that might've found it's way along the lower radiator saddle before dropping.....

MAYBE....

Ok, now that the leak seems to have stopped, let's restart the car, run it up to tenp and see if the drip reappears.....
15901698409484195659861843365677.jpg


IT DOESNT SEEM TO BE DRIPPING NOW...

Hard to believe that an active leak would just stop....

Maybe it never was leaking at all....maybe I spilled a little when I was filling the thing, and it ran along the lower radiator saddle before dropping off...

MAYBE IM JUST TOO STUPID TO DO THIS KINDA STUFF.
 
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You ( like most of us ) always look for the worse after a first start and run. With so many horror stories it's hard not to freak out. When we were young, with no concept of time or money, there wouldn't have been a care in the world. That thing would've bounced off the rev limiter a couple times already and been on the street already.
 
You ( like most of us ) always look for the worse after a first start and run. With so many horror stories it's hard not to freak out. When we were young, with no concept of time or money, there wouldn't have been a care in the world. That thing would've bounced off the rev limiter a couple times already and been on the street already.

i know...The “what if i broke a ring, what if i pulled the tty main bolts too far,...what if the torque converter isn’t engaging the front pump, what if the starter is hanging”, what if the engine won’t start...ever, and “what’s that freakin noise?” have consumed my thought process to the point that all rational thought has left my brain.
 
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You're not the stupidest person here (by a longshot) but I think you're a hypocarchondriac. Like Gene Krantz said, Failure is Not an Option. Well, maybe for you it is an optional do-over.

Go drive Le Monsteur like you stole it. And post your results here later.
 
You're not the stupidest person here (by a longshot) but I think you're a hypocarchondriac. Like Gene Krantz said, Failure is Not an Option. Well, maybe for you it is an optional do-over.

Go drive Le Monsteur like you stole it. And post your results here later.
It wont idle, it has no acceleration circuit tune, the front end isnt aligned.. I haven't even tried to put the thing in gear yet

It's far from driveable.
Itll start and run...that's about it.
 
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