Status
Not open for further replies.
Got my response from diy auto tune. The guy must’ve been a new guy, as he was excited to respond to me. I got my link to the ms3x pin out for the db37 cable that I’m going to build, now I’m excited. I got this ant killing mega-magnifying head set that electronic techs use that make my eye balls the size of base balls,...and I’ll wear a set of 2.0 readers under that.
The soldering iron tip will look so big, it’ll look like a WWII Zeplin is flying above my circuit board.

I can’t wait!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 4 users
  • Sponsors (?)


Got my response from diy auto tune. The guy must’ve been a new guy, as he was excited to respond to me. I got my link to the ms3x pin out for the db37 cable that I’m going to build, now I’m excited. I got this ant killing mega-magnifying head set that electronic techs use that make my eye balls the size of base balls,...and I’ll wear a set of 2.0 readers under that.
The soldering iron tip will look so big, it’ll look like a WWII Zeplin is flying above my circuit board.

I can’t wait!!
Oh please share, I'm just about to do this myself
 
I'll tell ya...building that db37 connector ain't for the tenderfoot when it comes to soldering. The pins are damn close together,. It's not so bad up until you get the first 19 soldered, but when you flip that bitch over....things get a little more complicated.
20190404_173529_zpsyle1qb4s.jpg


This seemed easy...for the first 19 pins..

But, as expected with me, I flip the thing over, and start in earnest. I solder 20, 21,22,23, all the way up to 35..... Then, as I'm almost to the end,....iI go
" What tha?....there's sposed to be all yellow wires on the end, but now I got two yellows and a green n orange one....where the hell was this sposed to go?"

Pin 26...I gotta unsolder 9 wires, put then out of order wire in pin 26, then put back the rest of them into the goob-u-lated pins that remained..
What was that little emoti made just for me again?...
:doh:

Again,..I managed.

20190404_192756_zpsoo7vuze4.jpg

I have to check the pin integrity to make sure I haven't shorted anything together,..( I didn't) before I pull the old ecu, and do what needs to be done to upgrade the thing to ms3x.

This took almost two hours..( partly because I'm doing stuff over) Kate got home just as I finished, and my continuity tester is dead, so,...this'll be another day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users
And...as a footnote to the above:..
Somebody looking at it may wonder why the pigtail as a prequisite..

So to answer that, I'm anticipating being able to swap my main board over into the new box, add the 3x expansion card, put the box together, plug the existing relay cable into the main db37, and plug in that harness to the 3x db 37. I I'm hoping that I'll be able to do nothing else, and be able to start the car. I'm hoping to be able to do nothing else, and have my laptop hook up to the ecu via the Bluetooth adapter currently on the MSII.

The pigtail harness is for the future...it'll be there so that I won't have to do a damn thing except hook wires to it from whatever thingy I need to get input from, or control.

But then, ...I could be wrong.
 
And as a footnote to the footnote ..the notch cut out of the non-insulated diagonal cutters that I've had since 1990?
That don't work for sht, and I should throw away?
That's what happens when you cut through a live 110v 40 amp circuit in an old ased house with fuses.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
And...as a footnote to the above:..
Somebody looking at it may wonder why the pigtail as a prequisite..

So to answer that, I'm anticipating being able to swap my main board over into the new box, add the 3x expansion card, put the box together, plug the existing relay cable into the main db37, and plug in that harness to the 3x db 37. I I'm hoping that I'll be able to do nothing else, and be able to start the car. I'm hoping to be able to do nothing else, and have my laptop hook up to the ecu via the Bluetooth adapter currently on the MSII.

The pigtail harness is for the future...it'll be there so that I won't have to do a damn thing except hook wires to it from whatever thingy I need to get input from, or control.

But then, ...I could be wrong.
Which bluetooth adapter are you using?
 
The MS2 is out, the 3x is in the process of swappage. It's almost like a waste of time and money to me though....I'm using NOTHING from the 3x at this time. I doubt that I'll ever swap over to COP, I know I'll never convert over to SEFI.
My future plans are for traction control though, and ac triggered idle speed bump, far less than what the potential is for this mega-ecu... maybe, one day I'll swap the engine over and need all of that, but I'd have to blow this bitch to kingdom come so badly that it takes out the head too..cause the top end IS the engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Traction control is the lesser of two evils now that I've upgraded. It'd be way easier to go out and buy some drag radial to control tire spin, but at a higher cost, and for an uncertain solution. A sticky tire on the street is gonna be short lived, and,.....it's the street. Not exactly the most dependable traction surface. The algorithm to make it work looks complicated, but the mechanics of the install look to be within my capabilities. A sensor and some sort of trigger wheel at the front and rear tires to gather wheel speed data to compare against.
If after setting tire diameters on both ends so that each tire makes the same single revolution. I can have the ecu make timing ( or boost duty) adjustments to pull power away if the rear tires are spinning faster than the fronts until they match again. Seems like a must have when the boost target gets into the teens and 600 ft/lbs at the tires becomes a reality for me this year.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Mike, you already have some kind of hall sensor watching the rear tires.. its the Vss sensor.. you can parallel it into the MS so you can log the speedometer, this can also be used for the rear tire sensor for the traction control. The sensor up front does not need anything fancy, I have seen guys use a sensor that reads the back of the wheel studs.
 
Mike, you already have some kind of hall sensor watching the rear tires.. its the Vss sensor.. you can parallel it into the MS so you can log the speedometer, this can also be used for the rear tire sensor for the traction control. The sensor up front does not need anything fancy, I have seen guys use a sensor that reads the back of the wheel studs.
Whatchutalkinbout Willis? I don't have any vss sensor installed, unless you're talking about just that wire that I added to the 3x db37 that read vss on it.
 
:shrug:maybe i remember wrong but those fancy gauges you have in the dash are not mechanical are they? does the speedometer have a sender?

Why....yes.....yes it does. It must be THAT vss sensor your talking about. Or it could be the internal unit that is in the tail shaft that I'm not using..because I opted to use the old one that uses a driven speedo gear....it could be either of the TWO...

That I actually DO have...
 
Ok the one you have hooked up to the speedometer, does it have a 3 wire sensor at the trans or a 2? if it is a 3 you can simply splice into the signal wire and take it into the VSS input on the MS3 and DONE. heck you could even log the fuel level and all kinds of things now.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.