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Sooo.....

There's just no way I'm gonna leave the hood flat. I'm just a " non-flat hood" kinda guy.

The scoop I bought for it has turned out to be lower than I envisioned it to be,..but that's alright...it's very close to fitting the hood, and making it a bolt on is a fairly easy project....

( if only it were a little higher though.....)

The reason(s) for replacing the existing hood is mainly because it's a failure waiting to happen....Evidently, the bondo that is slathered all over that thing didn't like the heat coming off of the turbo, and remaining hot side when it wasn't wrapped, and it lifted...now the only thing keeping it on the hood is the orange paint that is trapping it beneath.

I also want a way for engine heat to get outta there,..so a scoop hides the hole ( s) that I'm going to put there to allow that to happen.

The main reason however was because I'm trying to do something that looks a little more like the factory coulda did it. Now that the Cyclone Spoiler stripes are there, and the Comet tail lights are glued in place,..it needs a scoop to finish off the project.

The factory cyclone spoiler scoops run the full range from easy to difficult to reproduce ( who am I kidding, I ain't reproducing anything,...it'll be a "close approximation".)

Starting in 1969, when Mecury first added the word Spolier to the Cyclone namesake..
fl0117-276219_12@2x.jpg

And ending in 1971, when the last of the Muscle cars still roamed the planet as " new cars"
images.jpeg

That center scoop remained consistent. Much more subtle on the 70, and 71 version, and now that my scoop is so low...maybe just what the dr. Ordered.

However....
I've always had a sweet spot for the hood vents on a 66-67 chevelle.
300-3467-1_800.jpg

And I'm pretty sure I could make those things to where they'd bolt on, and I could actually use the repro inserts that fit.

Then, open that area under the blisters so the heat escapes...and water gets in...

It doesn't matter really, there never was a car made by mercury this late into the 70's, so whether I make my low boy front facer work, ( which is literally almost done), or clone over a pair of 67 396 ss bulges, it's not like I'm doing anything the wrong way.

It's a bunch of crazy sht in my head anyway.
 
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Well, Drew, you were on to it.

That old 1977 turbo Pinto TO4 was Henium coated.

You need to Protect Your Dave Hood Paint with a triple shot of Henium Coat (cf. Heany Industries ).

Tiles or bonding it, coat the underhood with space shuttle tiles, and have a Air Brake to create a Cowl Induction hood.

speedbake.jpg


Opps, forgot to "Type R". BAKE=BRAKE


attachment.jpg


And CMA, you could just air brush the stuff on the hood. Everyone knows its not the:-

Custom Cool Air Gila heat exchangers
Custom Meth Injected,
Custom roller cam,
Custom aluminum Honda Ford II X flow head,
Custom 6 BBL ITB intake,
Custom EDIS and MegaJolt,
Custom MegaSquirt,
Custom Pistons and forged rods
Custom oiling system
Custom liners with
Custom converted side plate and
Custom 4 stage with Lockup clutch and
Custom narrowed 8.8" axle that makes your
Custom Wide 315 tired ride so tire fyring fast.

(Enough C's to carbon date C14...)

Honda guys know this all.

Ford taught em in 69-70. It's the Cyclone Spoiler Decal package. Stickers, my man.

Worth 450 flywheel hp over a stock 99 hp net 250 Maverick six everytime.

Let others Eat your Mercury's dust.

New avatar. Mercury Mission


mercuryMission.jpg

mercuryMission.jpg


mercuryMission.jpg.html
I'll use the flame icon if you say whaaaaaat again. And then just regurgiate. My doctor says he can't help really sick people who say the same batsh!+ stuff over again with just anothe flame icon, but he's wrong. Spending 50 dollars an hour was wrong, I sware.

Preperation H might be my next ℞

Anyway, happy assover, and Don't get Nailed....

Darn, forgot the p. Turned the sacred into the ignoble again.

Mind you P's and Q's, but especially your RRRRrrrrr's.
 
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A little food for thought.
if you are attempting to push cool air into the engine compartment with that little scoop it ain't gonna do much more than look cool. it would likely need to be about 4" high or higher to even catch some air off the hood that far back. Besides that the air entering the grill in front will cause more pressure in there rendering the scoop useless, pretty but mostly useless.
if you are attempting to move hot air out of the engine compartment facing the opening rearward would do more good but personally I don't like that.
To get more air into the engine compartment you have to get air out of there, as we know most air exits under the car. You may already have this, I don't remember, covering the area underneath between the bumper and the front area of the engine forces air through the radiator, around the engine and out under the car. If I remember right you cut openings at the back of the hood that will could let air out but would need to be bigger.
Just the ramblings of a madman.
And the effects of too much coffee.
 
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To be a real Gila Monster, he has to reinstate the factory gills that they had as an optional extra, the ones in front of the door. Then hook up some kind of perpetual energy Atom style thru'flow Gila Monster hood to fender system. Duct the heck outa it, CMA. Aim for the pedestrian, slice them asunder thru the hood, and spit each half left and right via the fendergills. Cyclonic Hoodwinking the passerby Engineering flow system.
 
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A little food for thought.
if you are attempting to push cool air into the engine compartment with that little scoop it ain't gonna do much more than look cool. it would likely need to be about 4" high or higher to even catch some air off the hood that far back. Besides that the air entering the grill in front will cause more pressure in there rendering the scoop useless, pretty but mostly useless.
if you are attempting to move hot air out of the engine compartment facing the opening rearward would do more good but personally I don't like that.
To get more air into the engine compartment you have to get air out of there, as we know most air exits under the car. You may already have this, I don't remember, covering the area underneath between the bumper and the front area of the engine forces air through the radiator, around the engine and out under the car. If I remember right you cut openings at the back of the hood that will could let air out but would need to be bigger.
Just the ramblings of a madman.
And the effects of too much coffee.
The hood scoop would cover inlet holes that wouldn't be expected to allow any cool air into it ( I agree, it's too low, and too far back) the purpose of the holes is to allow heat to escape while sitting in traffic. ( when under hood temps tend to skyrocket)
The holes in the back of the hood would serve the same purpose. And on that note......

A while back @NIKwoaC did a really great job putting grilles on top of his hood, or hood scoop. I could care less that water could potentially get into this area if I was on the road and got trapped in a rainstorm,..I've always had a solution planned for that inevitability. ( I'm gonna cut up a magnetic backed sign, and stick it to the backside of the openings should that ever happen)
I know it won't be watertight, but it should slow water infiltration down significantly.....besides..I would just pull over in a deluge..the wipers on the monster are only slightly better than the ones that came on the model A.

That said..What about a nicely framed pair of flat grilled openings using nice hardware like Nik used? No scoop, just two heat exchanging grille openings maybe 4 X 12-18"?
 
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I feel the heat exchange openings would do a better job than the scoop, keep the scoop for looks if you want.
positioned at the back of the hood will do a good job of letting out the heat while sitting still. Depending on position, the low pressure area at the windshield may help pull some heat out the openings while moving down the road but the size of the low pressure area is dependent on speed and a few other factors. None of them a problem, it appears to run cool traveling down the road.
I feel the optimal placement of the openings would be along the sides of the hood in the back 1/3 area, like behind the turbo and above the exhaust
 
The hood scoop would cover inlet holes that wouldn't be expected to allow any cool air into it ( I agree, it's too low, and too far back) the purpose of the holes is to allow heat to escape while sitting in traffic. ( when under hood temps tend to skyrocket)
The holes in the back of the hood would serve the same purpose. And on that note......

A while back @NIKwoaC did a really great job putting grilles on top of his hood, or hood scoop. I could care less that water could potentially get into this area if I was on the road and got trapped in a rainstorm,..I've always had a solution planned for that inevitability. ( I'm gonna cut up a magnetic backed sign, and stick it to the backside of the openings should that ever happen)
I know it won't be watertight, but it should slow water infiltration down significantly.....besides..I would just pull over in a deluge..the wipers on the monster are only slightly better than the ones that came on the model A.

That said..What about a nicely framed pair of flat grilled openings using nice hardware like Nik used? No scoop, just two heat exchanging grille openings maybe 4 X 12-18"?
May I remind you that Nik used an '83-'84 GT hood scoop. Therefore........I AM cool:spot:
 
Well, Drew, you were on to it.

That old 1977 turbo Pinto TO4 was Henium coated.

You need to Protect Your Dave Hood Paint with a triple shot of Henium Coat (cf. Heany Industries ).

Tiles or bonding it, coat the underhood with space shuttle tiles, and have a Air Brake to create a Cowl Induction hood.

speedbake.jpg


Opps, forgot to "Type R". BAKE=BRAKE


attachment.jpg


And CMA, you could just air brush the stuff on the hood. Everyone knows its not the:-

Custom Cool Air Gila heat exchangers
Custom Meth Injected,
Custom roller cam,
Custom aluminum Honda Ford II X flow head,
Custom 6 BBL ITB intake,
Custom EDIS and MegaJolt,
Custom MegaSquirt,
Custom Pistons and forged rods
Custom oiling system
Custom liners with
Custom converted side plate and
Custom 4 stage with Lockup clutch and
Custom narrowed 8.8" axle that makes your
Custom Wide 315 tired ride so tire fyring fast.

(Enough C's to carbon date C14...)

Honda guys know this all.

Ford taught em in 69-70. It's the Cyclone Spoiler Decal package. Stickers, my man.

Worth 450 flywheel hp over a stock 99 hp net 250 Maverick six everytime.

Let others Eat your Mercury's dust.

New avatar. Mercury Mission


mercuryMission.jpg

mercuryMission.jpg


mercuryMission.jpg.html
I'll use the flame icon if you say whaaaaaat again. And then just regurgiate. My doctor says he can't help really sick people who say the same batsh!+ stuff over again with just anothe flame icon, but he's wrong. Spending 50 dollars an hour was wrong, I sware.

Preperation H might be my next ℞

Anyway, happy assover, and Don't get Nailed....

Darn, forgot the p. Turned the sacred into the ignoble again.

Mind you P's and Q's, but especially your RRRRrrrrr's.
Couldn't help but think...

Wouldn't the speed "bake" part be lower? More behind the big black things hanging off the ass end of the shuttle?
 
With the same gritted teeth I get when I know that part of a post 50 physical involves a digital prostrate exam...( in this case, the " digit" being what the medical profession refers to when involving a FINGER..)
I'm resigning/ surrendering/coming to terms with the inevitable.....I gotta start sanding on the hood and trunk.

The trunk had to be cut at the corners...Stock Fairmont trunks angle outward, and I needed it to drop off vertically.
The existing trunk has this mod, and this blue trunk has had that done to it as well. What that leaves is to have to weld the cut end shut. I don't remember what I did with the existing trunk...I may have fused the sheetmetal with the TIG....i don't know.

What I do know is that anytime I put a welder on thin top side sheetmetal I'm fckin that up as surely as I'm sitting here.

At the same time, I'm angry at myself...Because I'm veering off the path I set for myself last year when I decided to attempt a 21st century "update" on a late 70's car using early 70's stuff.

I can't say that the wing doesn't work for sure,..I know I don't like it as much as the duck tail.

There weren't any homemade duck tails on any Mercury's coming out of Dearborn.

I also can't say that the scoop won't carry the theme either...it may be okay when I get the thing mounted and painted the same color......but I also like the idea of just framing two rectangular pieces of perforated mesh ( like the two at the rear of the hood), and bolting them on as vents.

Except, again,....There weren't any Cyclones coming out of Michigan with vented flat hoods.

I mean...I freakin cut up the rear of this car, ruined a perfectly good working set of LED Shelby tail lights, Cut the hell out of a pair of Mercury Comet tail lights, and pasted the whole mess to the rear of the car TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE A MERCURY!!

Why wouldn't I stay on this path then?......Even if it takes me down a dark, narrow, one way road?
 
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‘Cause the spoiler looks tiny and the hood scoop don’t fit :shrug:

Fwiw-I liked the ductail spoiler, the vented hood I thought was a win-and secretly I was hoping the Thunderbolt-esque teardrop scoop from a few cars ago might make a return :chin
 
‘Cause the spoiler looks tiny and the hood scoop don’t fit :shrug:

Fwiw-I liked the ductail spoiler, the vented hood I thought was a win-and secretly I was hoping the Thunderbolt-esque teardrop scoop from a few cars ago might make a return :chin
Now see Raggedy,..there's where I have to call you out..

The wing, if anything looks huge back there..standing all "up in the air an sht"..
And rest assured...a T bolt scoop will never make it back on the car..I hated that thing..and....a Thunderbolt is a Ford.
And the scoop fits....now.
 
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