1978 mustang new member

429MII

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Mar 10, 2019
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I just took off the stock rear bumper and that weighs as much as a 3x3 filled with concrete, so I would still be lighter than stock anyway lol..

As or the exhaust, I'm not above sectioning the floor a bit to make exhaust fit better... I am going to cut out the majority of the rear lower inner quarter panel and section that for a thinner profile so the tailpipes can exit right at the back.
I have used the stainless band clamps in the past and they work nice as a way to make the exhaust removable in case of trans work etc.
 
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429MII

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More menial labour. Not very interesting stuff. Welded up some reinforcement for the weak-ish looking rear spring perches. Made up plates to weld to the rear crossmember for bolting on, and they double as replacements for the old rear bumper mount plates which I won't need. Trying to figure out a gas filler spout now.
Some pics
20190528_052207.jpg
20190526_160134.jpg
 

2Blue2

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Mar 5, 2019
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Looks like it will be tough!
So much for that hitting the rear bumper and exploding thing from the late 70s ( lol )
 

429MII

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Yeah I think It would take a miracle to blow up the gas tank now. Plus the pinto fuel tank explosions were because of the rear end not being a drop in pumpkin style, so the sharp rear cover would split the tank and cause the leak.
 
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429MII

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Working on sub frame connectors and torque box reinforcement today. I am surprised how beefy the torque boxes are on these cars actually.. I think it would be difficult to damage them even the way they are. Of course I am adding plates to them because I like to overkill things, but I think these would actually be strong enough anyway. Once you uncover them behind the 20 lbs of sound deadener you can see how substantial they actually are.
20190603_090502.jpg
 
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429MII

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I am basically just making rectangular 3/16 plates to reinforce where the bolts go through, and that is all I think is needed here. I may have to reinforce the frame connectors themselves though, as I mentioned a while ago, as the box material seems pretty thin at 1/8 wall.
 
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429MII

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I don't know. I guess it would. I need to see what options there are for roll bars and where they mount. I'd like to try to not cut my plastic if possible, but it might not be possible.
 

429MII

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You have to trim up the bump from the rear of the subframe in order to get these to sit up flush with the bottom of the sub frame. I cut it off, flattened it and made new bends so it fit inside the subframe again and welded it back in. Then I put the sub frame connectors on top Not sure if I needed to weld it back in , but it seemed like it needed to be by looking at it.
 

429MII

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That last pic is the front two bolts of the spring perch. I guess it a roll bar goes here I can weld it to this also or make a bolt on plate to go on top with longer bolts and adding two more
 
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429MII

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Leaving them bolt on. It's easier than building new ends for them to weld on. They would have to mount under the perch, so quite a bit of fabbing to do there if you ever want to be able to take off the spring perch for any reason.
I also checked the roll bar mounting on line and it mounts further back where the next two perch bolts are.
 
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extra_stout

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Thats looking great! Especially i like the reinforcment of the rear spring perches.
At the moment my carpet is removed from the car and I'm thinking of tack welding the two bolts of the front spring perch, that I'm able to install the subframe connectors later on without removing the carpet again.
Is the stock bolt length suffiecent for the subframe connectors? Or is there a longer bolt with the subframe connector?!