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2Blue2

I partied with that dude!, um girl, um whatever...
Mar 5, 2019
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Hey post a pic of the other end of your sub connectors
How they mount up
Thanks
 

2Blue2

I partied with that dude!, um girl, um whatever...
Mar 5, 2019
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398
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52
Oahu
So the Cal tracks don't actually hook to the sub bars?
 

429MII

Active Member
Mar 10, 2019
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British columbia Canada
Going to start carving up my trans tunnel today...seems like now I have the trans and shifter on the 429 and dropped in, the shifter bits contact the tunnel so I can't move the engine into correct position.:O_o:
Some time I hope to be putting metal back in instead of taking out.
 
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2Blue2

I partied with that dude!, um girl, um whatever...
Mar 5, 2019
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398
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Oahu
Just keep cutting, NO FEAR!
Hack Chop Slice Gouge Pirece Butcher Fold Spindle Mutilate
Its just a car and so adjustable! :cautious: :O_o::rolleyes:
 

2Blue2

I partied with that dude!, um girl, um whatever...
Mar 5, 2019
748
398
73
52
Oahu
Cool, Who's the supplier?
Dedicated M2 style?
Tom Petty said it best "The waiting is the hardest part"
 

429MII

Active Member
Mar 10, 2019
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British columbia Canada
Got engine mounts built yesterday. Welded up the trans mount. I will add pics in a little bit.

As you will see, I rubber mounted everything. I did this for a few reasons
.
1) I want to street drive the car enjoyably, and the engine has a pretty big cam. I have been in many otherwise nice cars that rattle and buzz and shake your fillings out off your teeth, and I can't stand that. For a race car ok, but not a street car. I want to run this car on the highway etc.

2) As i am going to use a "shaker scoop" it would be nice if the engine "shakes" for the full experience

3) A person could, at any time, replace the rubber mounts with solid mounts and make it solid, whereas if I made it solid from the start it would be quite a job to reverse it.

I am using a mid plate as well, I am just waiting for it to be built by Keith at KFM. He is using the block saver from the quicktime bell housing I have for the pattern to match my bell,, he scans that to cad, then corrects the starter mis alignment and laser cuts out a new part.
With a steel mid plate I think the engine will be real stable in both planes (side to side and fore and aft) and I don't think I will require any bulky stabilizer rods for drivetrain stability, also since i am running a 4 speed, and using rubber mounts, I think it will add some important drivetrain stability.
The front aluminum plate can and would flex with weight transfer etc, without a mid plate. I think a mid plate is a more stable and cleaner option.
The mid plate is made from .125 steel plate, and will probably be urethane mounted.

I have yet to modify the front mounts for a safety limiter to contain the mount should the rubber rip. I thought about drilling it through and adding a bolt and nuts, but that would mostly eliminate the whole dampening ability of the mount. Maybe a cable, I will have to see, again with a mid mount It should not damage anything if a front mount rips, but I do enjoy overkill so..

I used a ford torino (among others) Trans mount rubber, and 1967 Barracuda small block engine mounts for the front. The mid I am not sure yet but will figure that once the plate arrives.

The drivetrain is mounted at about 3.5 degree angle. The diff is at about 3. I was aiming for absolute parallel, but for engine angle I was going by the carb mount pad, and I wanted that level, and the trans sits quite high in the tunnel already.
I could have had the carb mount pad machined to match the new angle but as I said I don't thing the minor angle difference is going to matter.
If I were lower the engine at all, the oil pan will be perilously close to the steering rack. I could use offset rack bushings and bump steer rod ends, but that is a sacrifice to steering geometry in my opinion, and while ok for a drag car, won't be optimal for street driving.
I do not think the minor amount of angle difference will cause any trouble especially since the driveshaft is only about 38" long. If need be, I can alter the rear end angle with wedges anyway to match.
The engine is offset about one inch from centreline of hood peak line on the cowl, There is about .250 to .325 clearance between the pan and the crossmember closest point.
 
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LILCBRA

10 Year Member
Dec 6, 2005
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Going from memory, you want a little mismatch in driveline angles to compensate for the rotation of the axle under load. Those of us who have installed T5s have run into vibration issues and found that the added angle going from whichever transmission we swapped from to the T5 increased the effective angle which necessitated the use of angle shims in the rear end. I can't remember right offhand what the suggested angle to start from is - I think it's like 1-1/2*? Anyway, a quick search should net you that info if you're inclined to look.

As far as the carb mount goes, I don't think you'll have much of a problem at all there. I mean I think 3 degrees over a short distance like the 2 fuel bowls of a Holley is negligible. Hell, I think there are a lot of variables such as suspension setup and rake, weight transfer, etc to take into account there so you most likely have plenty of wiggle room.