Progress Thread 1985 GT 5.0 Mustang Restoration/Bringing my dad's old car back to life

Alright, it's been a while (like the Staind song), I rebuilt the engine about a year ago because it lost oil pressure and my Grandpa and Dad's custom CNC rocker arms blew another few needle roller bearings since I was revving the living piss out of it racing a gti, subie, and a 2jz 190e mercedes. I threw in an X303 cam, new springs, and retainers with valve stem seals (also cleaned and lapped the valves). When I turned the engine upside down to pull the pan I saw about 100 or more needles sitting around in the bottom end and a bolt that vibrated loose on the oil pickup tube. :doh: Anyway, it's been running great at 16° of base timing and I've never had vapor lock or carb-soaked issues, and I live in Commie-fornia:bang:. My question lies somewhere in the wiring, as I can start it cold perfetly fine not even two full revolutions, then when it gets up to operating temperature and I shut it off, it will not start. Sounds like vapor lock, but here's where it gets tricky, the car will crank over perfectly fine for days, and with the key in run position it cranks, cranks, cranks, and when it's turned to the run position it fires on a cylinder or two. I can not comprehend what it might be besides the ignition switch or wiring, I have tested fuel, comp, ICM, coil, and starter solenoid.

I believe it is a wiring/electrical problem since a kid, 20+ years ago wired the engine harness, especially since it starts fine cold and won't start hot and it's not ICM, vapor lock, or the heat soak in the carb. It only happens when hot and it won't start, but to reiterate, it fires as soon as I turn the key from start to run.

I'll post pictures within a few days, I want to clear coat the patina since I have a V2 vortech for it, if worse comes to worse ill get a new harness, but thats a new thread that someone probably posted before.

Thank you guys for any input, I greatly apprieciate it,
Kyle
 
  • Sponsors (?)