Progress Thread 1985 GT 5.0 Mustang Restoration/Bringing my dad's old car back to life

They are on par with the 5-lug setups. It’s a decent upgrade and what the 1993 cobra was equipped with

It’s the front setup that will give you a major boost in performance(when using the 13” rotor) , and that will require going 5-lug.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


There should not be more than 2’ on a carburetor car. Get the green stripe or ethanol compatible hose. (Check on the box or reel to confirm!) I do not know why they even sell the other junk, and it was less than $.25 (a quarter) per foot more last time I got some. If you get three feet, you will have enough when you want to temporarily put in a T to test fuel pressure and for when you change fuel filters.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
True but are they as big? Haven't done much research on this, plus I found some nice rims that are 5 lugs but I can always try to find them in 4.
It depends on what diameter rims you want to run. I made my own 4 lug, 4 wheel disc brake system based on modified rotors from a Lincoln LS, 11.8" front, 11.33" rear and calipers from a 2000-2002 Lincoln LS. They do require 16" wheels though.

2000-02 Lincoln LS rear calipers and pads are VERY similar to 94-04 Cobra rears and can use Mustang e brake cables.

If you wanted to keep 15's I would use re-drilled 94 T-bird rotors (10.16" vented rear and 10.85" front - same front size as SN's) and re-drilled hub from '89-90 T-bird along with '94/95 or 96-04 spindles (I am using the later).

1620592022515.png
If going 4 lug with SN95 spindles, use the 89-90 T-Bird hubs with the smooth back as shown. This way you can re-drill easily for different bolt pattern.

I used T-bird/Lincoln rotors and hubs because they are 5x108 - same bolt circle as Fox 4 lug. This way you can use one of the original studs/holes for alignment purposes to drill the other 3.

IMG_0449.JPG
My re-drilled rotors.

IMG_0623.JPG IMG_0624.JPG
11.8" rotor with dual piston LS calipers on 16", 11.33" rotor with LS rear caliper again in 16"
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0448.JPG
    IMG_0448.JPG
    349.9 KB · Views: 42
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
It's been long enough, I feel like you guys need some sort of update. I have run into some new problems as another week goes by in the blink of an eye. The ignition key is probably long gone and the steering wheel is theft locked. I want to clean the car with a steam cleaner/pressure washer located in pushing distance of the car but it's theft locked. Now I have seen videos and read about how you can take the ignition cylinder out without the key. Which is looking like my only option then order a new one. I think that my dad had found the door key since the key worked one time. Miraculously. The key would fit but you don't push it in all the way. Is this how the door keys are for these cars or is it the wrong key? I got the trunk open with it though which is nice because I am storing most of the parts for the car in the car. Got the new fuel pump in, and I am now trying to figure out the fuel line since it needs to be replaced. Also going to get some gas to clean parts and the tank. The radiator has corrosion in it, I thought that it was styrofoam in the radiator when I first opened it because it looked like someone rubbed two pieces together and made it snow styrofoam balls then dumped them in. Here are some pictures that I have collected for the past week.
Heads.jpg
NewFuelPump.jpg
NFP2.jpg
NFP3.jpg
bettercenterbay.jpg
betterleftbay.jpg
betterrightbay.jpg
rightsidebay.jpg
carb.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Headsv2.jpg
    Headsv2.jpg
    269 KB · Views: 51
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Have you contacted a locksmith?
A good locksmith could make a key for that thing in just like 30-40 minutes.
Otherwise you will have to drill out the cylinder lock plunger, you will see a hole under the key cylinder, look up at the bottom of the column.
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Yeah, I went over to one and he said that he couldn't make one. He was thinking that he was going to have to do all the work to put a new cylinder since he couldn't make a key and was about to charge me like $400 when I can do it myself for the price of a cylinder. Do you have to jam a screwdriver in it and turn it before drilling? I saw that on some videos and not 100 percent sure.
 
I changed the lock cylinder in my II without the key. Basically what I researched and ended up doing was this: if you have an old Ford key of the same style, you can try to use it. Basically you just jiggle it while trying to turn the key and it'll eventually engage/disengage the tumblers and turn. Once that's done, changing the cylinder is easy. I'm sure you can find better explanations if you do a search on how to change the ignition lock cylinder without a key.
 
An old worn key may work as a 'jiggler'
Basically what you do is slide the key in and out rapidly and shake the key up and down while holding pressure on the key cylinder 'ears' back towards the accessory position, sometimes it works.
$400 bucks to replace that key is stupid money, shop around.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
If you can get the cylinder out, (by bumping the lock) it should be 1/10 of that price to make a new key. I had worn copies of shifted core copies for keys in my first car by the time I bought it back. The locksmith made a new ones off the codes and they work great. In another car, the tumblers were hanging up, and he re-keyed the new cylinder to match the doors for about the same money. I was able to get the cars there, so a service call might be more.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Well, I contacted the ford dealership and they can't do anything since they only hold codes from 10 years ago. I am thinking I am gonna have to take the cylinder out and get a new one with a key. As I think that will be the cheapest option, I will call around later for more locksmiths. Since I am not ever going to pay a ridiculous price for something I can do myself. What do you mean by the key ears and bumping the lock?
 
Well, I contacted the ford dealership and they can't do anything since they only hold codes from 10 years ago. I am thinking I am gonna have to take the cylinder out and get a new one with a key. As I think that will be the cheapest option, I will call around later for more locksmiths. Since I am not ever going to pay a ridiculous price for something I can do myself. What do you mean by the key ears and bumping the lock?
I'm pretty sure he means these:

sw2396_1__01.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Naw... They still provide ample time:

shotgun.gif
You have to hear them first before perforations help. Three jerks once cleaned most of my car and construction tools from the alley side of the shop. Neither we nor the neighbors behind us (that were up playing cards by the patio door at the time) did not hear or notice them. They hit over 40 places before thay got caught. I got most of my stuff back, and I marked the rest of my tools when I got them back. I made it much harder to break in after that. And the police officer found no prints on the light switches, door knobs or tool boxes. Not even mine.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: 1 user
The threat of the teeth might be better than buckshot.
A purple pit must have better hearing than a young cocker and the neighbors full size poodle did. They both would have normally alerted at someone pulling up and messing around in the alley. It was bizarre when I saw boot prints in the snow on the walk the next morning.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
As a former 'creature of the night' you would not believe what some people can sleep through.
And as for dogs, I've heard people yelling at their dogs to shut up and not even look to see what they are barking at.
 
  • Neat
Reactions: 1 user
Yep...... my dogs hear everything....... therefore I’m looking out the window and down the stairs any time they tell me to.
Mans best friend!!!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users