1989 2.3l Valve Cover

Apr 13, 2021
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1
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USA
What up! Here is a photo of my valve cover I just finished painting. Can't for the life of me find the torque specs and pattern for it. Anyone got the info?
 

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Just start on the middle bolts, and work your way fwd/aft from there…. Circle around several times until tightening one doesn’t cause another bolt to loosen.

Nice paint job!
 
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5-8 lb-ft / 62-97 lb-in
The book didn't specify where to start or direction
Turn the bolts in a Clockwise direction. :rlaugh:

Since it does not say, make up a star pattern. It’s less likely to warp something than going around the edge in an in line sequence. The torque is low enough and the gaskets soft enough that unless one bolt is way over torqued, it will not likely make a big difference. Still, use best practices.
 
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Appreciate the help.
Seems to be holding up the little I have been able to drive it. I'm dealing with a bunch of other issues. Think I got a bad starter and a bad ECM. Would yall know the difference between these 2 ECMs? Description is the same on both except one says Remaned with Federal Emmission OEM #E8TF-CUA and the other is OEM #E8TF-CTA.
 

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Well, why do you suspect the ecu?

Did those both come up for the same application? same year, make, model, engine, trans, etc?
Yeah, they both came up for exact fits on my car. 2.3l auto.

Reason I think ecu is one issue of at least 2:

I've replaced the ignition switch, tfi module, distributor cap, lines and plugs, ignition coil, battery, battery ground, sanded grounds, removed bass system.
Problem started when the car is warm it slow cranks and won't start. Sometimes causes smoke to come from hood. Dies while driving. Sometimes won't crank when cold now. It's a slow grind kind of crank if I hold it but that causes over heating and probably what melted my ground terminal 2 days ago.
My radio starts to short out too.
90% sure starter is one issue.
 
TheeRickestRick,
The stator in the distributor has been replaced?
You might want to check the starter for excess current draw
A new starter will pull in they call it at around 180 amps and crank at around 120
A worn or armature dragging starter will pull in at 320 and crank at 220 roughly
Autozone can do this test for you free
 
No, stator has not been changed but the distributor looks fairly new. I think the previous owner may have changed it at some point. Since sanding the grounds the dying while driving seems to have stopped. I'm going to buy new ground lines today and bring the starter in to be tested.
 
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