1993 bank fire wont run on ether

brian84

Member
May 20, 2021
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new york
You absolutely right. Something is amiss. How long you owned the car? What is the history?
I wasn't trying to be belligerent if I came off that way. The oil pressure seemed low and the motor seems to kill a new battery when cranking. I ran 2 new batteries and moving the dist loosened it up. No knock no bangs in the engine. I am at the point where I might not be able to fix this and send it out. So....the oil pan seal broke when doing the timing cover, the rear main leaks and engine has 250k on it. It would be foolish to spend $1000 at the auto electric shop to find out the engine needs rebuilding. I already bought every sensor after asking the "tech" how to test them. Going to atleast pull the valve covers off and make sure the cam didn't break but I am confident today it will run for just under a minute.
I forgot to bring the ecm numbers home yesterday.

Thanks so much for the help so far. I need to go over all my numbers and double check.
 
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manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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Purchased in Apr, sat for 6 years. I put a battery in and it fired up and ran rich but cleared. I did tuneup and......
The dealer sure should know if the processor was correct or not
Do like the general says
Pull the processor out and take a picture of it
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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Mar 2, 2015
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I've seen this a few times. I'm surprised no one asked to pull codes. You should attempt a start and pull codes before disconnecting the battery.

You did a tune up and then no start ? Put a second ground from the engine to the battery ( can use jumper cables ) and see what you get.

Check the pick up underneath the rotor button plate. It should look like plastic and not powdery. That thing reads the windows on the round plate under the rotor button and controls the injector firing. The top could be sending spark to the cylinders but the injector timing could be off. The PIP should also be secure and not move around if touched with a screw driver tip. Ether should've started it in this situation which leads me to believe the timing is off. Do the dots on the crank gear and cam gear sit right by each other ? The distributor could also be 180° out. That would mean pulling the distributor and turning the rotor 180°.

There's a ground to the fender apron between the battery and the coil ( black with white stripe ). Make sure its clean and tight. Also check the connector in the black plastic thingy on that wire. It's the computer ground.

If you have fuel, spark, compression, and good ECU then the car should start.

I'd start with the basics. Remove number 1 spark plug. Use a screwdriver lightly placed in the spark plug hole. ( a plastic straw is a safer tool for this ). Rotate the engine with a ratchet until you feel the piston come up to the very top. Since the timing cover is off look at the dots. They should be pointing at each other. If they aren't at each other, and the cam dot is up top, it's not top dead center. Rotate came till dots line up and check for piston at its highest point. Remove the cap and the rotor should be pointing at the number 1 spark plug wire location. It does matter where the plugs are on the cap. There is only one correct spot for the number 1 plug wire. Rotor spins counter clockwise. Check HO firing order counter clockwise from the number one position.

Screenshot_20210912-231910_Chrome.jpg
 
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brian84

Member
May 20, 2021
13
3
13
43
new york
I've seen this a few times. I'm surprised no one asked to pull codes. You should attempt a start and pull codes before disconnecting the battery.

You did a tune up and then no start ? Put a second ground from the engine to the battery ( can use jumper cables ) and see what you get.

Check the pick up underneath the rotor button plate. It should look like plastic and not powdery. That thing reads the windows on the round plate under the rotor button and controls the injector firing. The top could be sending spark to the cylinders but the injector timing could be off. The PIP should also be secure and not move around if touched with a screw driver tip. Ether should've started it in this situation which leads me to believe the timing is off. Do the dots on the crank gear and cam gear sit right by each other ? The distributor could also be 180° out. That would mean pulling the distributor and turning the rotor 180°.

There's a ground to the fender apron between the battery and the coil ( black with white stripe ). Make sure its clean and tight. Also check the connector in the black plastic thingy on that wire. It's the computer ground.

If you have fuel, spark, compression, and good ECU then the car should start.

I'd start with the basics. Remove number 1 spark plug. Use a screwdriver lightly placed in the spark plug hole. ( a plastic straw is a safer tool for this ). Rotate the engine with a ratchet until you feel the piston come up to the very top. Since the timing cover is off look at the dots. They should be pointing at each other. If they aren't at each other, and the cam dot is up top, it's not top dead center. Rotate came till dots line up and check for piston at its highest point. Remove the cap and the rotor should be pointing at the number 1 spark plug wire location. It does matter where the plugs are on the cap. There is only one correct spot for the number 1 plug wire. Rotor spins counter clockwise. Check HO firing order counter clockwise from the number one position.

Screenshot_20210912-231910_Chrome.jpg
The only code was for coolant after I had removed the timing cover the second time. All work was done after it stopped running so my work was not the cause. I had a defective new pickup and wound up changing the distributor out.
Yesterday it ran briefly and I did a compression test. I only pulled four rear plugs and it seemed to backfire out number 4 hole and at one point actually ran on 4 cylinders.

Current status: broken egr tube, smog valve, lower intake manifold bolts, exhaust manifold bolts, cracked manifold, mains worn down to copper -evenly, number 1 and 2 rods copper and scored all other rods copper at 11 o clock. The rear main was not chooched but they munched the oil pan gasket when putting the pan on.
 

manicmechanic007

Active Member
Sep 26, 2017
406
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Dealer sure would have checked codes first
Would have found if processor was incorrect?
Checking for blinking light on coil while cranking checks the stator
Always put a new DU30C Motorcraft stator in your distributor
I try to run only factory ignition parts
Rough job changing the stator on a 5.0 some distributor housings will crack or break in the process
I use a brass hammer mostly and a press when needed
I make marks on both retainers and the gear and the shaft with a file or air grinder to line it all back up
Block off the EGR tube for testing
Sounds like the intake is next
You will get it