I bought the car about two weeks ago and it looks to be lowered but I'm not sure but the front tires are rubbing the fenders on both sides towards the doors. What are stock size tires for 1993 LX 5.0 Stangs? My car has 225's. I need to get some stock springs or some good aftermarket ones that dont lower the car.
1993 LX 5.0 Tires rubbing front fenders towards doors?
- Thread starter live4yotas
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I find it odd they are rubbing the rear part of the fenders. The stock Fox Mustang 5.0 cars cam with 225-55-r16. Even if it is lowered it should rub on the rear of the fender.
samickguy15
Member
Are there any other aftermarket suspension parts on it? Maybe somebody put some SVO/Lincoln front spindles on it...
Shakerhood
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Has it been in an Accident? Some good Ford Springs that wont Lower the car too much are Bullitts, and if you want to sit slightly higher than Bullitts then go with Mach 1 Springs.
RMODEL65
Member
ill bet the k member is pushed back takes some pics with the wheels turned completely straight and post them up
skunk21
Active Member
make sure your inner fender liners are not loose on the bottoms. on our cars there is alot of room in the front so this is weird, I went from stock size to 255/40-17 and when the wheels are straight I still have tons of room, I rub the liners in full lock right or left though but that is also due to wheel offset. other than that like the others posted you must have some previous damage.
Blown331LX
Member
It sounds like to me the car has been wrecked in the front. Raise the hood and check the sub frame along the side of the motor from the firewall forward towards the radiator. Check for anything thats not straight or looks like it has been welded. Also look under the vehicle at the K-member and the bolts that attach it and see if they look like they'ev ever been removed or if the k-member had been shifted. If none of this is evident then have a reputible shop check the alignment. What you have going on is most certainly not a common issue and something is seriously off. My car had a whole new front clip welded on to it from a previous wreck, and even with camber / caster plates my driver front tire only, is very close to touching the inner fender, but only because that side is just slightly farther back than the pass front side. Check those items out and let me know, but something is most certainly not right.
Flavadave4
Active Member
I think the problem is bigger than your springs. A-arm or spindles have to be messed up?!?!!??!?!
Blown331LX
Member
It is not physically possible to install the control arms back wards, nor are they completley removed to replace springs. I find it unlikely that both control arms or both spindles are bent. If it was just one side I might be suspect of a spindle or other component. The problem is something they both share in common with the caster axis, this would be in the frame or k-member or both.
I looked underneath the car and I didnt see where it was pushed back any but like was said somehting is off. The car has been wrecked in the front end. But the only noticeable damage is in front of the front tires none behind. The k member is what the lower arms are connected to right? Can a k member be replaced if bent ? The driver side scrubs worse than the passenger side and the car has no sway bar in front. Springs seem to be really soft in ride. I want some stiffer springs. Are the Mach 1 springs mentioned stiffer and more a performance spring? If so who sells them? I'll get under the car again tomorrow and see if I see anything bent. The car sits so damn low but looks to be about the same as other stock cars the same year. Thanks for all the help! This is my 1st stang.
skunk21
Active Member
this problem really needs pics and from alot of angles to get help, it sounds like you need more than springs.
stang&2Birds
Founding Member
PICS!
Also, *measure* the fender height for *both* sides. And, what is the *exact* size and *model* of tire. Pics will identify the rims.
There are *many* reasons why the tires could be rubbing.
You need the above info AND pics before you get any info that is worth anything.
Mach1 or Bullitt springs are the CORRECT way to lower the car (~1/2" -> 3/4") and get better handling (spring rate is ~50% stiffer). Pretty much any other spring is for looks and not handling.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/misc/Mustang1986_with_Mach1_springs/
Note: I have an AOD. If I had a 5-speed, I would not have used the Steeda spacers. For a 5sp with AC, the Mach1 springs and without the Steeda spacer would result in a fender height of a little lower. I run wider 245's (720's) and I have 94/95 spindles and D178 rims up front - *all* of that is important in squeezing it in an Fox. Still, I, like many others, are into the POS factory tolerances of Foxes in having my combo fit. So, the same exact combo may not fit on another '86. Or, it may have even more room than I have now.
Also, *measure* the fender height for *both* sides. And, what is the *exact* size and *model* of tire. Pics will identify the rims.
There are *many* reasons why the tires could be rubbing.
You need the above info AND pics before you get any info that is worth anything.
Mach1 or Bullitt springs are the CORRECT way to lower the car (~1/2" -> 3/4") and get better handling (spring rate is ~50% stiffer). Pretty much any other spring is for looks and not handling.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/misc/Mustang1986_with_Mach1_springs/
Note: I have an AOD. If I had a 5-speed, I would not have used the Steeda spacers. For a 5sp with AC, the Mach1 springs and without the Steeda spacer would result in a fender height of a little lower. I run wider 245's (720's) and I have 94/95 spindles and D178 rims up front - *all* of that is important in squeezing it in an Fox. Still, I, like many others, are into the POS factory tolerances of Foxes in having my combo fit. So, the same exact combo may not fit on another '86. Or, it may have even more room than I have now.
The rims are 16" stock pony rims. Tires are stock 225's. Sorry camera is screwed up right when I need it. I looked under the car today and noticed that in front of the k member on the driver side the frame has been welded on. And the back side of the k member on both sides there are to bolts that bolt the k member up. Both sides the slottted holes are as far back as can go to the cab. What all will have to do to pull the k member forward
Get a frame/body shop to throw it on a frame rack and take some measurements for you. It's possible that the K member is pushed back from the front end collision, or the frame structure is tweaked somewhere. It may take some straightening to get it right, but it probably won't be cheap. I think I paid somewhere around $400 just to pull one part of my frame back from a low speed impact on a car I used to have.
Blown331LX
Member
I knew there was a issue with the k member. My advice is first take it to shop that has the best alignment machine and tech in the area and have them check the alignment to see actually how far back the caster setting is. Most shops will do this for free or at least $30. There will be a few ways to solve this, one camber caster plates, having the frame pulled which should only be between $100-$400. But THE BEST thing for you to do, is verify the frame/unibody is good, and replace the K-member either with stock or tubular. If it has more welds OTHER THAN FACTORY 
throw it in the trash. Because this is not a good thing. Your K-member supports the engine and all the front suspension, you do NOT want to run the risk of some sideshow crap welds breaking. Best thing just replace it.
throw it in the trash. Because this is not a good thing. Your K-member supports the engine and all the front suspension, you do NOT want to run the risk of some sideshow crap welds breaking. Best thing just replace it.The k member wasn't welded on. The cars frame was welded on in front of the k member on the drivers side. If the k member is pushed back then wouldn't the engine and trans be pushed back also? I looked at mm offset front arms that move the front tires 3/4" forward with stock k member. But they say they require coil overs. Which is pricey. When I get the money and the time. Most likely after christmas. I'm going to have it all checked out and will report back on whats up with it. I can deal with the tires rubbing if it is something that will cost alot to fix. As long as the car is SAFE is the main thing. It drives good the way it is, it rubs when turning. I dont drive it everyday or anything its just a play toy. I have two other vehicles I drive both jacked up trucks. Thanks for all of the advice it was greatly appreciated.
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