1TallMF, Hissin, Grady come in here please.

ry was retty on with the pinging ect... and the bogging.... crackle is weird mine only does it when cold....

I agree with most of it. There are fine-points that don't matter. E.g., detonation and pre-ignition are NOT the same thing. But you were really inquiring about detonation and he covered that.

In the ticking thread, I only had time to skim it real quick but it looked alright. One thing: if you are desiring only 33* total timing, you're going to need a means of tuning that in bud. Even if you ran the base timing down to zero, you'd still go past 33*. The low and mid range timing is outrageous. We're going to want to work on that gurgling issue but I need more caffeine and my thinking cap.

Those seemed most important - I don't have time to do the others now; I'll read 'em later. I'm sure Grady, Paul, 1TMF and everyone else will have great thoughts for ya.

I need to go clean up storm damage from yesterday.

Good luck.

Well, I had nothing to do this afternoon so I actually had time to go through most of that. That ryclef guy seems to be on the ball and really know his stuff.

I have a bit of valvtrain noise at idle if I open the hood, but I'm not too concerned about it. Have you ever considered the ticking to come from a barely tracable header leak? My crappy Mac headers have been leaking for ages now, but only when the engine is under load. That sort of noise can be real hard to track-down, I was only able to determine that it was the headers when I had the car running on the emissions test dyno at the local shop, since it would not do it when simply revving it. It was very obvious on the dyno. Anyways, just a thought I had...

As for the rest, shouldn't be too hard to swap a 5.0 into a '98, you just need the k-member as mentioned, the front accessory drive (plenty of choices here, both stock and aftermarket), a tranny and bellhousing that will work with the 5.0L, driveshaft from a '87-'95 stang (not sure if the '96-up are longer or shorter though), and of course the wiring harness and computer from a 5.0L. I think the '98 gauge cluster will work, but some modifications might be required for it to work. Then of course he'll need the headers and mid-pipe from a 5.0L car. The '98 cars also use a hydroboost system to work the power brakes instead of a vacuum booster, so chances are he'll have to make custom hoses to adapt a 5.0L p/s pump to the factory hydroboost, or just get a 5.0L vacuum booster and master cylinder.
I'm sure there is more to it, but thats all I can think of at the moment. It would be best to have a donor car to do the swap.

I agree with everything else. I'm sure I forgot to mention something...

Hey Nacho

Sorry I took so long to reply but haven't had the time to do a lot
or reading lately

I quickly skimmed the #3 timing & rocker thread

Looks to me like that guy has a solid understanding of our hobby
so
you just might be able to take his info to heart

As JT said above!

I know the ping thing is so
but
You just don't have enough options with dizzy twisting ......
to make all that much of a difference

You dial it back to kill ping
and
You then find ... You've killed power in doing so

When you have load AND rpm access ............
You can build any kind of custom spark curve you want or need

I know you don't wanna tune
but
You keep posting up stuff that tells me .....
You have an inquisitive mind and wanna learn

Seems like your concerns and actions don't go hand in hand

Grady

95Vert said:

Hissin, can you elaborate on that crackle thing, please?

Thanks

Click to expand...

I was originally thinking that your funny exhaust noise might be coming from some sort of induction/miss glitch. And that's obviously something to address if that's the case. Now if it's just a noise originating and egressing at the exhaust, well I dunno' that it's so important (I spent some time yesterday - after a record setting low temp - lying on the driveway checking my exhaust over too). These noises are hard to describe so I don't want to guess what a gurgle/crackle sounds like and mislead you.

All in all, it sounds like it's no biggie.

Nacho, if you have a mechanics stethoscope, it can really help narrow down noises. Just make sure you don't need to go potty before you start, because when you bump the probe into a moving part, you'll crap your pants. The scopes from HF or parts stores work just fine IMHO.

Good luck bud.

also a screwdriver works for finding sounds too, pretty decently too if you have the right one, solid plastic handle. doesnt work as well as what was mentioned above, but you have it laying around the house.

95Vert said:

White smoke = gas right? I had some.

Click to expand...

White smoke is water from exh. (until it evaps all out everyone has some) or anti-freeze/other water.

Fuel is black...think diesel exh. kinda.

Oil is more grey-ish and tends to "hang" around more than water smoke. Plus it smells like burning oil.

also oil kinda has a blue-ish tint to it

On the rocker setup deal,

with the valve/cam setup at mid lift (1/2 threw the lift of the cam) is when to check to make sure the rocker tip is dead center, with it closed it will be slightly off center as it does travel some from 0-mid and mid-full lift. With the tip dead center and setup properly it will also be the narrowest amount of travel across the valve head.

To adjust the rocker and its "travel" you will use shims if ped. mount. You will use the adj. PR to get the length needed with shims that get the mid lift to set the tip dead center of the valve head. For the proper lenght you will need to bring the cam to its base circle (valve closed) and with the rocker in its setup for dead center tip on valve head and adj. the PR to 0 lash.

i had a ticking that turned out to be normal valve noise but it was much more noticeable because of an exhaust leak. once i fixed the exhaust leak, the ticking was gone