I reacently had a refurbished engine put in my stang to replace the old one after it blew a head gasket. I havent even had it back for a full two weeks and it has started stuttering when ever i touch the gas and the service engine soon light is flashing on and off. WHAT SHOULD I DO???
i have a 2001 ford mustang v6 3.8 and i already bought the CHT SENSOR and the guy frm autozone have me some diagram and it mentions that it is located center front of the engine, below the cooling system air purge port. PLEASE HELP ME SOMEONE. my car overheats but there has never been a problem!!!! I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE SOME INFO!!!!
i have a 2001 ford mustang v6 3.8 and i already bought the CHT SENSOR and the guy frm autozone have me some diagram and it mentions that it is located center front of the engine, below the cooling system air purge port. PLEASE HELP ME SOMEONE. my car overheats but there has never been a problem!!!! I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE SOME INFO!!!!
And as for the OP's stuttering engine problem. First, I would do as bdcardinal suggested and return for warranty service. Second, the flashing engine light is indicating a cylinder misfire. One of the cylinders is either not firing at all or firing improperly. THis could be due to a number of problems such as.. disconnected spark plug or fuel injector, fouled up spark plug and or fuel injector, malfunctiong coil pack, bad plug wire, leaking cylinder head or intake manifold gasket, foreign material such as coolant or water in the combustion chamber. On the last part, you'd know this because your exhaust would smoke.
Agreeing with mustanglx-5.0.. first of all, If a shop did the work then it's their job to make sure it works properly. *If it a referb, all referbs go through all needed test before releasing to the public, often there are duds...The key ingredients in a proper running vehicle is Fuel, Spark, and Compression. If it was fuel related it would effect all cylinders and not just one. It COULD be bad fuel injector, or a disconnected Fuel injector. Next is spark. it COULD be anything from, *fouled sparkplug, improper gap on sparkplug, bad sparkplug wire, or coil. And then there is compression test and leak down test. Five to 10 percent loss indicates an engine in great to good running order. An engine between 10 and 20 percent can still run okay, but it’ll be time to keep an eye (or ear) on things. Above 20 percent loss and it may be time for a teardown and rebuild. Thirty percent? Major problems. It's best to bring the car back to the shop so they can run diagnostics on it to first off to determine the misfiring cylinder and go on from there. Second of all you paid good money for the engine and the labor so If they find out the engine is the problem you have a warranty. If you fix it yourself and it was a install error in the first place your just throwing money away. In some cases if you do the work yourself and another problem occurs and the shop finds out you did the work, doesnt matter how good you are with cars, the shop that you recieved the engine from will find out a way to discontinue your warranty by blaming the problems on you because of installer error. *Anyways Hope you get the problem fixed, good luck. -Shauna*
Hopefully its nothing serious, though. Failth that its something small and easy to fix. I hadnt ever come across a FLASHING engine light in a Ford before, so I wouldnt know where to start. Only knowledge I have is what I have experianced.
Just to add, if I may, I had a similar problem after I was working on the car [the V6] and I had only forgotten to connect my MAF sensor back in. Car was pretty bumpy 1st through 3rd gear though I dont recall a light going off. Im sure after running it awhile without your MAF sensor connected can throw a light on, but no one quote me cuz I havent been around a disconnected MAF for a long period of time, but Ill check everything electrical first, make sure it wasnt an easy DIY fix.
ALSO, there was a time I had some work done at a shop and after the car [the 5.0] was released to me, the car started to boggle a bit, then it almost rapidily gave me the light. I turned the car off for a few seconds, and turned it back on. Ran fine, light was off, then it did it again, light and all. I took it back in before the shop closed, and all it was was just a small vacuum line that they forgot to reconnect around my EGR. Ran fine afterwards.
Hopefully your problem is just as simple and cheap as mine were. Just when you have a few minutes, go look around, make sure everything is fitted tight and correctly and nothing was left disconnected. Good luck!! Let us know what happens!!