Hi,
Happy to help, but a vague question will only yield a vague answer..
Can you please elaborate on specifics of your Cobra’s engine noises, how they presented initially, began & worsened over time..or just started occurring one day. Recent work performed prior to/after this knocking/ticking began?
Specifics...like:
Noted specific area(s) of noise origin? Occurs during acceleration/deceleration, both?
Noise(s) seem more prominent when hot or cold..?
Does the frequency of the noise keep pace with the motor’s RPM’s, if so- at Crankshaft speed, or slower, Valvetrain speed?
Oil pressure been lower or higher than typical on your gauge?
Any DTC’s?...if so- post..
Best!
-John
The car recently bought, and after oil change ( thick oil ) noise was noted and seemed to get worse over time. A rod knock was diagnosed by a few mechanics. A few days ago the oil was drained and some metal dust was in the oil. The hope was to inspect and replace rod bearings but, after cutting open filter ( loaded with metal) only course of action now is a total rebuild. Thank you John for reply.
The car recently bought, and after oil change ( thick oil ) noise was noted and seemed to get worse over time. A rod knock was diagnosed by a few mechanics. A few days ago the oil was drained and some metal dust was in the oil. The hope was to inspect and replace rod bearings but, after cutting open filter ( loaded with metal) only course of action now is a total rebuild. Thank you John for reply.
The only thing super sick IS ME. Gonna go stock, the block is a Teksid so that's a plus. I am gonna maybe try for some additional HP (50-100) though. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks
Hi,
You can grab 50HP+ over stock with Bolt-on’s, Tuning, enhanced with lower gears.
I’ll go a little deeper, see what you want.
After the ‘bolt-on’ level, it really begins getting more expensive, and whether Cams & porting, Or boosting, the car needs balance, built equally to utilize the additional power & remaining safe and reliable.
I’ll put FI on the conceptual table, for information only. if you ran dished pistons & dropped C.R. to that of the 03’-04’ Termi’s (8.5:1), if a Tekskid or WAP block you could boost it to 400-450HP running a Roots or Centrifugal supercharger & keep a mostly stock topend and sacrifice no drivability.
There’s a few areas I’d suggest improving the build if you’re going “ground up”, regardless...steel rods, forged pistons, ARP fasteners, as a generalized statement.
As I understand it, the 01’ SVT’s predominantly ran the WAP block, but there were older Tekskid blocks that made there way into them. Did you confirm it as Tekskid?
Is the car currently bone stock, or have some bolt on modifications?
Best!
-John
Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions. Block is a confirmed Teksid (plus) and currently looks stock with no add ons. 50 + hp would be great. Money is currently an issue with total "unexpected" rebuild.
Hi,
I can understand where you’re coming from, is not the scenario you were anticipating by a long shot, for what it’s worth, I’m sorry to hear it occurred to you.. Do understand that paralyzing feeling of disbelief (how I’d felt, anyway) as I’ve had a couple hugely “My bad’s” occur over the years. Crazy how high the highs, and low the lows can be on those who deeply enjoy Cars..
Sounds like Bolt-on’s is the route you’ll be pursuing, these cars are darn quick & fast and fun out of the box, I can post some key parts that’ll get that extra bit out of it without the need of a CPU reflash, or a tuner you can reflash it with first, the custom tunes are free and unlimited as long as you own the car.
That approach omakes the most sense if you may be adding things here and there over time...add another part & request a revised tune.
How are the DMV Inspections in your specific area, reasonable or ridiculous?
Take care!
-John
I appreciate your time and knowledge about this engine subject. It would great If you can post the key parts to get a little more power. Sate inspection are a little strict but also dependent on the shop. Thx George