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2003 mustang v6 3.8 fuel issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter lacole1
  • Start date Start date Jul 20, 2026
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lacole1

New Member
Mar 16, 2023
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1
Jul 20, 2026
#1
  • Jul 20, 2026
  • #1
This car has a new fuel tank, carter fuel pump, pressure relief regulator valve, and secondhand filler tube, but no pressure. The wire at the bumper/tank says 12 volts from a new battery. The ks has a 12 volt reading also to/from from the ccrm. Checked fuses, but on the instrument panel mileage reading has straight dashes going across the reading. I removed the battery before taking the obd2 reading, so old school. I can spray carborator cleaner to crank engine up front, but still no go from the tank. There are 3 modules in between FPDM, PCM (ECU), or CCRM. If someone could suggest which to purchase first for possibly saving a couple of dollars I do not have yet a bi-directional tool for programming the keys, but possibly if needed if it is the ECU. Thanks in advance.
 

squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,277
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Joplin, Missouri
Jul 21, 2026
#2
  • Jul 21, 2026
  • #2
If you have 12v at the wire at the tank then it sounds like the pump has power correct? Can you hear the pump prime at all?
I'd drop the tank and put 12v to the pump manually to confirm functionality before replacing a bump of modules. Past that I'd lean towards FPDM being the first culprit.
 
A

apple99Mustangdude

Member
Feb 11, 2018
57
8
18
Sunday at 10:46 AM
#3
  • Sunday at 10:46 AM
  • #3
squeak93 said:
If you have 12v at the wire at the tank then it sounds like the pump has power correct? Can you hear the pump prime at all?
I'd drop the tank and put 12v to the pump manually to confirm functionality before replacing a bump of modules. Past that I'd lean towards FPDM being the first culprit.
Click to expand...
 
A

apple99Mustangdude

Member
Feb 11, 2018
57
8
18
Sunday at 10:49 AM
#4
  • Sunday at 10:49 AM
  • #4
As an amateur here, I had to have my fuel pump replaced in my 99 Ford Mustang six, at about 230,000 miles - it was very difficult for the shop to diagnose, first, it didn't always do it, seemed no rhyme or reason. Wouldn't start for a long period of time - then later it would start fine. At the shop, it took days for it to act up. Finally as ready to close up shop on Friday, after the car refusing to act up for over a week, after 5 pm when moving the cars inside, THEN it refused to start, and they could quickly get gauges on it and verify the fuel pump not working. If you apply current directly, is it going to detect a false like this? Or just maybe work, and maybe not?
 
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