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2004 v8 convertible

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mikeycrownvicluver
  • Start date Start date Feb 12, 2026
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Mikeycrownvicluver

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#1
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New starter, new battery , new starter relay even jumped the relay but same problem, So me and my buddies are trying to fix this 2004 ford mustang v8 convertible. It was running and driving but after a little driving it just stoped starting in a parking lot. The car just makes a click when you try to crank it, so we replaced the starter and starter relay and same problem, we looked at the battery and it was reading 12.00 on the terminals so I suggested a new battery and we did replace it along with new terminals on the power and ground. But the problem stayed, we jumped the relay and the problem was the same. We tried hitting the new starter and did nothing besides smoking a little. I suggested turning the engine over to check if it’s locked and after turning over the engine by hand the car would crank! But would go back to a click and just stop. Any test or something we could try would be great
 

squeak93

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Jun 2, 2005
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Feb 13, 2026
#2
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Is the PATS (Security) light flashing or on full time while trying to crank?
 
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Mikeycrownvicluver

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squeak93 said:
Is the PATS (Security) light flashing or on full time while trying to crank the
Click to expand...
Yes it’s flashing full time
 

squeak93

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Jun 2, 2005
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Feb 13, 2026
#4
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Typically that means a Pats issue. You can youtube some reset deals but usually it means the key is dead or the module itself is a problem. (Or wiring issue etc).
 
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Mikeycrownvicluver

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#5
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squeak93 said:
Typically that means a Pats issue. You can youtube some reset deals but usually it means the key is dead or the module itself is a problem. (Or wiring issue etc).
Click to expand...
Well even before this problem it was on too , but I’ll look into it
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Feb 13, 2026
#6
  • Feb 13, 2026
  • #6
PATS security issues will still allow the engine to crank. It just won't fire. Also, if there is a poor battery connection or replaced the battery, the PATS system will go crazy as well. If you are putting enough load on the battery to dip bat voltage way down, it may cause a temp PATS issue.


What do the connections on the battery look like? Are they strong? You replaced the battery but the issue could be a connection/cable issue as well. Do you have 12.6V on the battery still? Or is it less? If you turn the key to start, does the voltage on the battery drop? If so, to what?

You might also want to check for parasitic drains. Convertibles are also prone to parasitic power drains on the rear two Mach 460 amps as water from the top drips down on top of them. You can unplug them if this is the case. Also the alternator is a source of parasitic draw as well.
 
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squeak93

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Feb 13, 2026
#7
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Good point 5L5 - I wasn't thinking about it not cranking at all and just clicking.
 
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Mikeycrownvicluver

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Mustang5L5 said:
PATS security issues will still allow the engine to crank. It just won't fire. Also, if there is a poor battery connection or replaced the battery, the PATS system will go crazy as well. If you are putting enough load on the battery to dip bat voltage way down, it may cause a temp PATS issue.


What do the connections on the battery look like? Are they strong? You replaced the battery but the issue could be a connection/cable issue as well. Do you have 12.6V on the battery still? Or is it less? If you turn the key to start, does the voltage on the battery drop? If so, to what?

You might also want to check for parasitic drains. Convertibles are also prone to parasitic power drains on the rear two Mach 460 amps as water from the top drips down on top of them. You can unplug them if this is the case. Also the alternator is a source of parasitic draw as well.
Click to expand...
The connection on the battery are brand new , the old ground looked melted but was loose. We replaced them with the 2 bolt clamp ones and , the battery reads 12.6 than when you attempt to start it they read first 6.v than 5.v. I got under the car and check for the power and the main cable read 12.6 than the lead cable the smaller one read 5.v. When trying to start it.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Feb 18, 2001
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Massachusetts
Feb 14, 2026
#9
  • Feb 14, 2026
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That’s a hell of a load on the battery and the starter isn’t turning the engine over. Are you 100% sure the battery is good?

Usually when cranking I see batteries dip to 10-11V during crank. Not 5
 
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Mikeycrownvicluver

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#10
  • Feb 14, 2026
  • #10
Mustang5L5 said:
That’s a hell of a load on the battery and the starter isn’t turning the engine over. Are you 100% sure the battery is good?

Usually when cranking I see batteries dip to 10-11V during crank. Not 5
Click to expand...
I mean it’s a brand new battery I could go get it tested?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,179
17,880
224
Massachusetts
Feb 14, 2026
#11
  • Feb 14, 2026
  • #11
Maybe not yet. You said the new starter smoked a little? Your engine turns over easily by hand?

You had a melted ground wire?

I think something on your starting circuit is pulling one hell of a load if you are dropping to 6v on a new battery, melting grounds, and smoking starters. Can you inspect the wiring to the starter and verify it’s in good shape with good connections?
 
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Mikeycrownvicluver

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Feb 12, 2026
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Feb 15, 2026
#12
  • Feb 15, 2026
  • #12
Mustang5L5 said:
Maybe not yet. You said the new starter smoked a little? Your engine turns over easily by hand?

You had a melted ground wire?

I think something on your starting circuit is pulling one hell of a load if you are dropping to 6v on a new battery, melting grounds, and smoking starters. Can you inspect the wiring to the starter and verify it’s in good shape with good connections?
Click to expand...
Yes it turns over easily going one way but the other way it’s hard , from the starter the wires look pretty decent but I’ve noticed there isn’t a ground on the start and wasn’t there before we even started messing with it
 
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