Progress Thread 2nd Fox Body ....... 22 Years After My First

Rdub6

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Dec 29, 2017
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#21
Test your idle voltage anyway, or have an autoparts store test it for you. Running on low voltage will quickly kill electronics and certainly batteries. A healthy system will have around 14v at idle. Anything in the 13s is perfectly adequate. Anything below 12.6 is incapable of fully recharging the battery, regardless of run time. Anything below 12v is going to be problematic for the rest of your electronics.

Money may be tight, and I recognize that you are prioritizing, but just want to point out that you'll cost yourself more in the long run if you accept low voltages.
Thats exactly why I turn to a place like this to keep me on track. That being said, I’ve been getting over 14v with the car running, so I think I’m ok. I even checked the amps with the meter between the battery and cables to check parasitic draw and there was none.
I’m hoping the battery was just toast and I’ll be good from here out.

I’m really leaning toward getting full length frame connectors installed as my first major upgrade..... just to make sure the car is solid before I do anything else. I’m not in a rush, and want to do things right, so figured this is a good place to start. Thoughts?
 
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FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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#22
SFCs is an excellent start. Weld in only, not bolt in.
 

Rdub6

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#23
SFCs is an excellent start. Weld in only, not bolt in.
Yeah, wouldn’t even think of bolt in. Got quote of $285 to install Steeda full length. Plus the price of the connectors. So about $450 out the door. Seemed high at first, but the more i search around it seems about average.
 

FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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#24
$285 is a little high for labor, I'd say. I suppose that depends on where you live, though. I'd guess $200 would be more fair.
 

Rdub6

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#25
$285 is a little high for labor, I'd say. I suppose that depends on where you live, though. I'd guess $200 would be more fair.
I’m on Long Island, NY. I checked the “mustang specialty” shop. Haven’t gotten a quote from anywhere else yet.
 

Rdub6

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#27
yeah, that’ll do it all right. It sucks, but I love it here!
 

Rdub6

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#28
Welcome to Stangnet.
Looks like a nice clean car and a good starting point.
You can check Craiglist, Face Book for those parts.
I would also recommend you replace that hot air intake with the stock CAI box, install a set of MM subframe connectors and upgrade to a 3G alternator
Picked up that “non mass air” adapter on eBay and got that filter out of the engine bay. Looks nicer too .... IMO

32F15E59-0CE1-484A-9B46-7041588324F6.jpeg
 

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Rdub6

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Dec 29, 2017
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#29
Got rid of the entire cruise control unit last week. Another step in cleaning up, emptying out, engine bay. Plus I plan on going with an aftermarket steering wheel at some point, so I’d be losing the controls anyway!
Not much of a mod, but baby steps are better than no steps!
 

billison

I like tinted tail
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#30
If your cable is in good shape I’d be interested. Pm me if that’s something
 

Rdub6

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#32
Scored some 94 spindles from eBay. I’ve been cleaning them up for a while, got the old hubs off, now looking to put some paint on them.
Should I look to the high temp stuff, or will regular primer and paint do the job?
 

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1hot87gt

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Mar 17, 2017
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#34
Hey man. Good luck with the car. Looks nice. I’m on Long Island too. Check out Mustang Magic in Deer Park if you are looking for a shop to do your subframe connectors. Been dealing with them since the late 90’s. They know their stuff.
 

Rdub6

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#36
Hey man. Good luck with the car. Looks nice. I’m on Long Island too. Check out Mustang Magic in Deer Park if you are looking for a shop to do your subframe connectors. Been dealing with them since the late 90’s. They know their stuff.
Thank you!
I actually got a quote from them a while ago, but decided to hold off for now.
There’s a half a$$ed floor panel patch that I need to get fixed at some point and once that’s done I’ll get the connectors put in.
For a car that’s in relatively decent shape, my wish list is long and expensive! Lol.
I enjoy working on it, so as long as I’m moving forward, I’ll get there eventually!
 

Rdub6

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#37
14E51A14-AC6C-4992-A02C-AA3852F5E4AE.jpeg
I decided to tackle the tail shaft leak and what I’m pretty sure is a rear main leak.
I bought the seal and the bushing, but when I pulled the shaft, this is the shape the yoke is in. It has a slight hourglass shape to it. Should I just replace the yoke and seal, or does the bushing need to be done also? (I’m weighing my options of buying “the tool”, or trying to find a shop to change it if it really needs to be done.
 

Rdub6

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#39
Ok. I’ve got pretty much everything’s taken apart in hopes of doing my rear main. I have pretty good access to the top starter bolt, and it will not budge. I’ve tried impact, but with the extensions and swivel, I’m not sure it’s having the full “impact”. I had a solid bite on it with the stubby ratchet from underneath...... nothing. My trouble has not been getting to the the bolt. I know the steel bolt and aluminum bell are a bad recipe and corrode together. Been soaking with Wd40 and PB blaster and will have a helper on my next try so one of us can hold the socket firm on the bolt while the other turns the wrench.
While I wait for a break from the job, and continue soaking, anybody have any other suggestions? Thanks guys!

Saturday afternoon update: patience, a lot of WD and PB, and underneath again with the stubby ratchet, and that starter is out!!
 
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