Progress Thread 2nd Fox Body - some window trim work!

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Had these for a while. Couldn’t decide whether to do it or not.... but I finally did. The more I look at it, the more I like the white face.
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My interior work with seam seal and POR 15 will wait until no one else is home and I can have garage wide open, with a fan blowing out. I want to scuff down the passenger side and paint.
I was not the most popular kid on the block with my first shot of sealer and P15. Apparently the smell was much worse than I realized :shrug:
 
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Back to my drivers side. I have new plugs for the floor pans.... my question to those following, should I grind off the POR15 before I put the sealer down to seal the plug, or will the sealer stick to the P15?
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And I have to say, I’m completely jealous of you guys with those nice shops! I have to get this driver side finished up. Put the seat back in, lower the car, drive it out and flip around, and jack it back up. I’ll get it done, but this limited space sucks!!
 
I’m bored tonight so I’m throwing stuff on here that doesn’t mean much, but here goes. After a lot of reading on all kinds of forums (classic, custom, corvette, you name it), it seems that Peel and Seal has some pretty good reviews. I figure I can do the whole interior, doubling up where it needs it, for under $100. I’ll slap it down, take a few pictures, throw my carpet back on, and hopefully never see it again. But first, I’ll continue on fixing my passenger side, hoping I don’t find it to be worse than I see now!
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I know the feeling of working in a small garage, but at least it's inside.
I sprayed paint ONCE in my small two car attached garage, had fans blowing, doors open and plastic up.
The smell in the house got so bad I had to evacuate the family.
Now I only spray either at my buddies house with six car garage and ventilation or outside.
 
The Peel and Seal product above is what I used in my car. Given how little I drive it and how long it was between driving it with and without it I can't really say how much of a difference it made but I do feel it is somewhat quieter and given the low cost totally worth it. One of these days I'll pull the headliner and do the roof but that'll be much later I think.
 
I know the feeling of working in a small garage, but at least it's inside.
I sprayed paint ONCE in my small two car attached garage, had fans blowing, doors open and plastic up.
The smell in the house got so bad I had to evacuate the family.
Now I only spray either at my buddies house with six car garage and ventilation or outside.

lol..... I had to set up a big Patton fan the other day when I finished the POR15. It seemed to do the trick, and the family was happy!
 
So, today I wanted to get the drivers seat in, run the car a little bit, clean up the garage, turn the car around and back in for work on the passenger side. Easy enough you’d think.
So after running here and there getting some things done (not car related) I cleaned up the wiring, used some new clips, and got it tucked where it needs to be. Yeah, I’ll have to move it again when I do the sound deadener, but that’s for another day.
I cleaned the interior up, vacuumed it out, put the seat about where it needs to go........ rear bolts immediately stop once they get to full thread after the taper. I figure maybe it’s some POR15 clogging it. I clean out the threads, same thing. I was to the point I was either going to break the bolt, or the new bracket I just welded in. I decide to try the hardware that’s with the sub frames I just bought. Same thing.
I find the original thread pitch of the seat bolts on here somewhere, then I call Raybuck Auto Body (the place I ordered the brackets from to save $25 off the LMR price) but they are no help in giving me the thread pitch of the female inserts they use.
So off to Ace in the hopes of coming back with the right bolt. All iI get out of Ace and it’s now pouring rain. Moving the car out will wait til another day. Luckily the 3/8-16 bolts threaded right in and the seat is nice and tight, much more solid than it was before. Why they couldn’t just use what came on the car is beyond me!!

yes..... stupid long rant for a simple thing, but now I’ve vented, feel better, and off to find something else to do!

(next time I’ll check the bolts in the brackets before I weld them in).
 
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Got the car out and turned around in the garage (felt good to hear it run for a bit). But in the spirit of “it’s always worse than it looks”....... here it is.
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I have cracks, I have holes, I have more than I thought all over this passenger side.
So this leads me to (because this is how my mind works) whether I should pull the fuel lines that all of this is directly over. That would lead to..... pull the tank down, replace the filler neck gaskets, etc etc.
My goal from the beginning was to replace everything I could, that needed it on this car. My novice welding skills tells me to get the fuel and vent lines completely out of the way, and replace what’s needed on the reassembly. My “I can do this” tells me to cover them in spare sheet metal, and welding blanket, fix the floor, and get back to driving.

I always say WTF when I see people do stupid things causing major damage. Welding over fuel lines seems to me, to be one of those things! My fuel system may be getting an overhaul, thanks to my bad floor pans!
 
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Here’s wha the lines look like right around the tank.
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I’m going to see if it’s in the cards to buy this set:

Once I rip the old out, it will give me the opportunity to burn in my subframe connectors without worrying about these fuel lines.
 
What I meant Dub, was you could start now and be done by summer. You’ve done a nice job man.
 
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