302 Swapped 240sx Need Dry Sump Pump Drive Specs Or Oil Help Plz

silviapunk1987

New Member
Aug 5, 2015
3
0
1
Colorado
Not a mustang BUT this is my sbf swapped drift car and oil Pan #7 I fabbed and tried using with the factory oil pump. I need help SO!

Problems:
rear sump Pan doesn't fit with rack aft of the subframe p.I.t.a. takes 12 hours to install engine

front sump lose oil pressure after a few seconds sideways even baffled

front or rear sump
IMG_20150703_135438938.jpg
IMG_20150627_122343990.jpg
IMG_20150627_122320116.jpg
IMG_20150613_153919327.jpg
IMG_20150613_154117061.jpg
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oil pans are too small with how low/back the engine is I can only get 5qts max so crank case pressure is blowing oil every where

I want to go dry sump pull more vacuume and make pulling/installing engine 30 min job.

however... I had to lay radiator at this angle to fit a big enough radiator it sits exactly .75inch in front of factory crankshaft pulley.

question:
is there a drive htd/gilmer drive system that sits behind serpintene belts? or can I covert my serpintene belt to a v belt to free up enough space for a gilmer drive between crank pulley and radiator?

or crazy idea I saw a timing belt conversion for sbf 302 could I modify that to drive a dry sump pump as well? been scouring internet for months trying to solve my problem so I can get back drifting any help would be awesome \w/
 
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Not a mustang BUT this is my sbf swapped drift car and oil Pan #7 I fabbed and tried using with the factory oil pump. I need help SO!

Problems:
rear sump Pan doesn't fit with rack aft of the subframe p.I.t.a. takes 12 hours to install engine

front sump lose oil pressure after a few seconds sideways even baffled

front or rear sump
IMG_20150703_135438938.jpg
IMG_20150627_122343990.jpg
IMG_20150627_122320116.jpg
IMG_20150613_153919327.jpg
IMG_20150613_154117061.jpg
IMG_20150613_154128831.jpg
oil pans are too small with how low/back the engine is I can only get 5qts max so crank case pressure is blowing oil every where

I want to go dry sump pull more vacuume and make pulling/installing engine 30 min job.

however... I had to lay radiator at this angle to fit a big enough radiator it sits exactly .75inch in front of factory crankshaft pulley.

question:
is there a drive htd/gilmer drive system that sits behind serpintene belts? or can I covert my serpintene belt to a v belt to free up enough space for a gilmer drive between crank pulley and radiator?

or crazy idea I saw a timing belt conversion for sbf 302 could I modify that to drive a dry sump pump as well? been scouring internet for months trying to solve my problem so I can get back drifting any help would be awesome \w/

The gilmer drive for an external pump has an "arbor" that will bolt to the front of the existing balancer/serpentine pulley.
That arbor will accommodate a different thickness drive pulley, i.e. .500,.750,1.00".

I put an external single stage oil pump on my engine. I used a company called Aviaid out of CA. for the pump, and bracket. The guy has been in businees forever, and the price of the system was by far the best amongst the rest of the external pump mfg's. I looked at.
Whether or not they will recommend that you use something smaller than a 1.00" drive pulley/belt system for a full blown external dry sump system, or suggest that you look further into doing something like converting the thing to an old school V-belt so you can gain back some clearance, will probably be between you and them though.
 
Have you looked into canton oil pans? And find out the dimensions of what there pans are? Maybe that would work for you. There's a guy down the road from me that did the same and had some issues but is running his now maybe I can go ask him
 
Yeah I was looking at Aviaid oil pans originaly they seem like a awesome company. I can fab a bracket no problem I will use their pump if I can figure a drive setup... might end up getting a custom pulley made I was curious if any one had found a setup that might fit with less customization.

Ive looked at every company's oil pans however, the indent in the middle of my pan literally sits on the crank shaft cap I had to grind away the pickup tube support bracket attach nut for more clearance. If I raised my motor 3" and cut a hole in my hood to fit the engine all my problems would be solved. Maybe I'm being too picky but I love the sound and power of the 302 right now the stock N/A is a lot of fun. After I get the bugs worked out I want to drop the cash into a dart block and throw a twin turbo on it to be competitive... this is the last big bug.

Thanks for the input.

I just saw a Roush Yates performance video he mentioned they have an adapter for an external oil pump with their timing belt kit. I'm looking into that as well a lot of $$$ Thanks again.