Street = 325/45/17" M&H Racemaster Drag radials
www.stangnet.com
I have heard of this issue before with their dashes. You may want to look into something different and also more features for that beast you have there.That was a long time ago. Check page 7.
Progress Thread - 331 Turbo Project - at shop for Paint & Interior
I've not been in the market for one in like 11-12 years. Back then, they were selling for what he's asking new from Dart. But, I imagine they're asking more these days. I wanna say that my IE was ~$2k, back then, but that's before the machine work, which was also quite a bit. If I were to do...
On another note, UPDATE:
- Hurst line lock is in and tested! I just hooked up the electrical, today.
- Did a little part throttle and WOT tuning, yesterday.
- Racepak dash backlight has fizzled out again. Bad design apparently. This is the 2nd time it's gone out. Paid $70 for Racepak's repair last time.
s!
Those are very cool, and they help in the event that things go wrong... let's face it things happen...I got really excited when I came across this, tonight:
Wideband Failsafe Gauge | AEM
www.aemelectronics.com
It sends a signal at a specified boost and AFR. So, in positive boost if AFR goes lean, then it will tell an MSD box or computer with timing-retard to do so to prevent detonation!
This is awesome! Before, it wasn't realistic to pick a lean AFR, because 14-16 is perfectly fine at idle/cruise. Now, I can keep the motor safe if the fuel pump takes a dump, an injector goes belly up, I get bad gas, or whatever other reason.
As an example, I once leaned out because the boost reference to the computer burned up and the computer only saw a fraction of the boost that the car was actually making. I got lucky that I happened to be watching very closely at the time and got out if it quickly. If I'd had this, it would have saved the motor even if I hadn't noticed.
I think something like this would be even more relevant to those who need multiple fuel pumps and double or triple the likelihood of losing one of those pumps and going lean. The damn thing even has a delay. So, I don't have to worry about the lean spikes between gears for 2-ish tenths of a second setting off the fail safe. Way cool!
Now, I don't actually need the gauge, as I can already moniter AFR. So, if the same product is made, perhaps less expensively without a gauge, then that would be an even better product for me. On the other hand, I already have a 2nd O2 bung and a 2nd O2 sensor would serve as a check on the first one. If one gets out of whack, I'd know it was time for a replacement. Anyways, I didn't know anything had this functionality. The black car is getting one, I think. The blue car might, eventually. I'm not sure I can get to the computer as it's behind the dash, and 1 dash at a time is already too much for me.
Now it's a snake pit...I'm glad that's in front of you and not me...I'd just cut all of that sht out and rewire the whole car..the wiring IS 25 years old after all..After years and years of letting other shops have my fun, either because I was out of the country, didn't have the tools/ability (welding), or because I didn't have the time, my beautiful grey interior and original electronics both became complete cluster
When "professionals" do electrical work, they do it in a hurry, and usually leave every existing wire in place. Over time, this can lead to a rat's nest of unnecessary BS behind the scenes. The gross interior panels can usually be cleaned, but long ago, I decided to swap to black. I've had a hell of a time tracking down genuinely nice original black interior pieces, but something hit me a couple days back when I realized that the driver's side speaker didn't work. The last shop to do any major work (HPP Performance in Dallas) actually returned my car with the stereo upside-down! The problematic wires were not in the door. So, I decided to track them down, and meanwhile, to get the old door panels that I've had for years installed.
But before I could put them together, I had to track down the wiring behind the dash that caused my issues, and that led to:
and the surface rust on the metal dash bracing bothered me, so:
Now -- and this might take me a while -- I plan to
- go through every damn wire behind the dash and remove anything that is no longer in use.
- remove air bag electronics (with a 5-point belt, and the violence I expect on launches, perhaps even wheel stands, I don't want it blowing up in my face)
- examine the a/c and heater core for replacement if necessary
- install a new head-unit, and a small amp, sub, and sound bar.
- new black carpet
- refurbish and install an old black dash I already have.
- refurbish a black console base, and install a new black cup-holder console
- new 5-point harness & streetable seats
- new billet switches and panels for the doors
- wire line lock to hurst shifter handle thumb switch
- wire rear defrost into the GT fog lamp position & update marking. (This is an LX, but I've ordered a GT switch)
- wire my electric exhaust cut-out switch to a the 3-way convertible top switch & update marking.
- update dash switch markings to account for their new assignments (still haven't figured out how to make this look nice.
- Add a fuel level gauge to the a-pillar roll-cage bar
- Move ECU & ignition boxes to behind the seats somewhere.
- install sound deadening as necessary behind the dash
I already have black billet switches for the a/c system, and with the billet door switches, I'm considering the addition of a billet shifter bezel on the panel around the shifter. I already own it, and I'll probably buy a spare shifter panel to test out the way it looks.
Wow. Yeah, I kinda wish I'd come along a little later. MS was glitchy when I considered it. Now, the MS systems are hard or impossible to beat for the $. Not sure what the BS3 can do that MS can't, and the support definitely isn't there for the BS.
That -- the engine bay's clutter of hoses and wires -- is exactly where the name came from. So, it's fitting.
When I called them, the fella said they'd solved the issue with it, and if I sent it back he'd fix it under warranty, free of charge. Sounds pretty good to me. He's got it, now.
Seems to be way more common on the UDX then the iq3. I have seen it at the track A lot
