67 fastback restomod project

Markus · Dec 18, 2006

Hello guys,

what do think about my 67 fastback restomod projekt?
331 stroker (roller) with EFI, AFR 185 heads, FTI custom cam,
10.7:1 compression ratio, cold air induction, Hooker comp. long
tube headers, off road h-pipe, Tremec TKO and 8.8 rear with 3.55:1
ratio…………………..and so on.
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/stroker/prep4/big43.jpg
Next weekend I did my finaly work, I don´t have run it. How will it run?
You can show my web page (is only in german) but the pictures are
multi language.
http://www.mustang1967.de/technik.html

Please give me input.

Markus

65 fastback · Dec 18, 2006

Auch du liebert! Das ist vunderbar!

Tim

mustbereel · Dec 18, 2006

67

Das ist sehr gut! Sorry, two years of High School Deutsh and that is about all I can remember right now. I think you engine and drivetrain mods are nicely chosen and well executed. I couldn't find any pics of the whole car. I would like to see what you have done with the interior, exterior and engine compartment.

Auf Wiedersehen.

68keyblr · Dec 18, 2006

The motor should give you over 400 hp at the crank....it's the same setup I'm getting ready to install into my '88 GT.

The parts you have chosen for the car are very nice...I'd like to see the whole thing

68converted · Dec 18, 2006

I wish I could read German. Anyway, I was looking at your fuel pump setup. Is that a Bosche pump? That is what I am using as well if it is. Have you had any problems with it being able to pull fuel up to it?

Markus · Dec 19, 2006

Hello @all,

65 fastback
vielen Dank = thank´s for the flowers

mustbereel
My english is not much better than your german
My complete webpage you can find at www.mustang1967.de
There are alot of pictures from the car.
The car is complete restored. From outside it looks very original and the interior is most original too.
The tach and the speedometer are from a fox mustang.

68keyblr
wow, 400hp? I hope 320-350hp! The engine is build for
torque at low rpm´s.

68converted
yes it is a bosch pump, but this pictures show my old setup with
my "old" 5.0 HO. The new setup is a litte bit different.
A facet low pressure/high volume pump(205 liter/hour) take from two pickups in the tank the fuel and fill it in a catch tank in the trunk. From there take a bosch high pressure/volume (5bar at 250 liter/hour) the fuel and pressed it through a mallory fine filter to
the injectors. Puh, i hope you understand this discription.
I build this setup, because i had in the past fuel starvation when i driving along curves. With this setup i drive the tank dry without problems.
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/stroker/fuelsystem/facetbig.jpg
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/stroker/fuelsystem/boschbig.jpg

Markus

mustbereel · Dec 19, 2006

67

I looked over your whole site. Very nice! I bet your Mustang turns heads where ever you take it. Even a magazine spread and #3 out of what appears to be a top 10 poll.

68keyblr · Dec 19, 2006

Markus said:
@68keyblr
wow, 400hp? I hope 320-350hp! The engine is build for
torque at low rpm´s.

Markus

Yep, you should see 320 at the rear wheels.

You didn't mention injector size, intake, throttle body, MAF size, cam specs, etc etc but I'm betting you didn't skimp on those parts.

I'm assuming you'd be running about a 70 mm throttle body, 30lb injectors, 76mm MAF, and a nice intake (TrickFlow, Holley Systemax, Edelbrock RPM II, etc)

If that's the case then you should see around 400 at the crank, 320 at the wheels for an AOD car and more for a manual car.

Markus · Dec 19, 2006

Hi,

i try it with 24 lb injectors (a little higher pressure than stock), 65mm throttle body, 73mm C&L mass air meter and GT40 intake (port matched). I will drive it in the spring 2007 and look what my innovate lambda meter say.

thank´s

Markus

68keyblr · Dec 19, 2006

Markus said:
Hi,

i try it with 24 lb injectors (a little higher pressure than stock), 65mm throttle body, 73mm C&L mass air meter and GT40 intake (port matched). I will drive it in the spring 2007 and look what my innovate lambda meter say.

thank´s

Markus

That'll be a great street car setup, you definately will get excellent low end torque.

Bullitt · Dec 19, 2006

first off - very nice job.

one recommendation though, if you plan on driving the car hard or putting sticky tires on it (or take it to the drag strip) I'd recommend mounting the front weld-on bracket for the traction bars to subframe connectors (which I'd also recommend you get). I had one of those brackets rip out of the floor pan on my '67....

Markus · Dec 20, 2006

Bullitt said:
first off - very nice job.

one recommendation though, if you plan on driving the car hard or putting sticky tires on it (or take it to the drag strip) I'd recommend mounting the front weld-on bracket for the traction bars to subframe connectors (which I'd also recommend you get). I had one of those brackets rip out of the floor pan on my '67....

Hello,

thank you for the note. I know the welding point of the traction masters is very weak. The subframe connectors is a big point in my future mod list. Should i weld the traction bars directly on the subframe?

Markus

68rustang · Dec 20, 2006

What water pump bracket is it that you are using? I looked through the site but cannot read German, it was three years of Spanish, and two of French for me.

Bullitt · Dec 20, 2006

Markus said:
Hello,

thank you for the note. I know the welding point of the traction masters is very weak. The subframe connectors is a big point in my future mod list. Should i weld the traction bars directly on the subframe?

Markus

I drilled holes in my subframe connectors and ran a bolt through. This approximated the original installation location. If you don't want to drill holes through them, I'd weld the brackets to the connectors. Either method should be good.

Markus · Dec 21, 2006

68rustang said:
What water pump bracket is it that you are using? I looked through the site but cannot read German, it was three years of Spanish, and two of French for me.

Hello,

the bracket is made by March. The part number is 30025. I bought it at summit racing (MCH-30025) and it cost $99,88.
Here is a close up picture...
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/alternator/bracketbig.jpg

I install the tensioner up side down. I need the alternator downwards. On the 5.0 is the alternator upwards.

Markus

Markus · Dec 21, 2006

Bullitt said:
I drilled holes in my subframe connectors and ran a bolt through. This approximated the original installation location. If you don't want to drill holes through them, I'd weld the brackets to the connectors. Either method should be good.

Hi Bullitt (....what a name!!!!!!!!!)

did you weld your subframe connectors? I´ve already saw bolt ons.
Bolt ons are not really stiff, what your opinion?

thank you

Markus

Bullitt · Dec 25, 2006

Welding is the only way to go!

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