Yeah. We were feeling overwhelmed after the problem with the hood. But much better now after stripping the old paint, filling a few dents and finally getting a good coat of DTM on the hood.I’ll be honest, that doesn’t look like fun to me. It’ll be worth it in the end though, I’m sure.
Yes, I like that color as well. Can’t wait to see how it looks with a Cobra kit. Good luck with your search.Very cool build thread! Really love that Cabernet stang of yours. I'm currently on the lookout for an 89' LX 50 in that color like the one I had in high school. No luck so far.
My old vert was that color. I took that whole car apart, did all the body work, which wasnt bad, painted it and put it all back together. That was almost 20 years ago. Yikes! I miss that car.With conditions being good but marginal, we decide to paint the engine bay and cowl only. Decided on this mainly because we could position the car away from the leak spot and the only surface at risk that matters is the cowl. This way, at least we can assemble the drivetrain while we wait on another good day to paint.
Metal temp stayed above 65 degrees. No real problems. Had a run near the back side of the passenger strut tower. But we’re leaving it because it won’t be seen.
After two coats of base.
And three coats of clear.
Color is sterling grey if anyone is interested.
We do have a couple dust inclusions on the drivers side cowl. But zero orange peel. Will those require a wet sand and polish or could we try polishing first?
Wet sand those areas with 1200 grit, go back over them with 2000 grit then polish. Just wait until the whole car is painted and do it all at the same time. I usually use a block to sand those out. A Paint stick works well to keep the spots small, just round the edges a little. If the orange peel is too heavy, wet sand the panel with a foam block using 2000 grit, leaving some if it to achieve a factory look. Or, you could sand the clear coat down a little more and polish it to make it look like glass.
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