Progress Thread Goofy fuel gauge on slow progress

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,388
3,099
194
Kearney, NE
After being here and owning my current Mustang for 10 years, I realize it would have been good to have a slow progress thread to keep track of what was done and ideas that need done. Searching through old posts works, but putting them in one spot would have been helpful. Pictures will follow if they were saved or if I have to get some new ones.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
  • Sponsors (?)


No new pictures yet, just one from when I bought it.
I am saving this thread to replace the reproduction door lock actuators. The passenger side is dragging badly if both sides are plugged in.
View media item 6988
 
Another part I have (somewhere) and need to check out is the ECT. And I might as well check out the IAT sensor. I have all the codes down to 11 with the surging idle checklist, but on cool days, it acts like the choke flap needs adjusted for a few minutes at start up. And of course, it has no carb to adjust the choke on. It will be interesting to see if these values match the sensors on the car or the new sensor.
 
The other drivability issue I need to chased down is an occasionally hanging idle. The step I am at is to clean the connections, do a meter sweep, and put it back together with some dielectric grease.

 
Other parts waiting for installation are at least the following:
- Steeda aluminum upper and lower rear control arms. I will put new quad shocks on backwards just to be sure of no wheel hop. They are cheap compared to the arms.

- subframe connectors with seat supports

- console lid with cup holders to be installed once power ports are installed and it’s painted.

- a small subwoofer. I want to upgrade the head unit to a Sony Bluetooth and usb for iPod unit, even though the current one has CD and Sirius/XM compatibility.

- Sheet metal quick nuts for the hatch plastic pieces to help keep the rattles away. I have enough loose screws without the car having them.

- Door and hatch weatherstrip. The driver’s door piece is missing a layer where feet have hit it getting in and out.
(https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...stripping-shootout.906302/page-3#post-9152147) I hope I bought the right ones several years ago! I cannot remember if I replaced the hatch weatherstrip on this car. I think so, and it’s parked off site because of the impending ice storm.

- Explorer intake. The lower was ported by Tmoss and I ported the upper intake throat to match my bigger, whistling, BBK throttle body. (I do not mind hearing the IAC is working, so I have left the whistle at idle.) I will probably wait until I replace the ported E-7 heads with alluminum heads.

- A IAC spacer kit from an F150. It is short an adjustment screw, but the whole thing is MIA after the last move. It should be helpful with the cam in the car, once I find it and make another adjustment screw.

- Silver Star or LED bulbs. The taillights are lightly tinted, and we’ll see which I find first.

- a GT hatch spoiler snd a hand polished 3rd brake light, not in the same spot.. I like the GT spoiler better than the 91 LX spoiler. The extra holes in the hatch mean I will be having someone else do this swap, some PDR, and some touch up to the quickie Vibrant Red paint job it has.

-94 spindles with used brakes. I like my pony wheels, but the head and manifold will likely require a brake upgrade.

There are probably more items I will find as I get the boxes sorted out. Parts for my other classics, plumbing, electrical, sprinkler system, phone, electronics projects, general garage stuff and wall hung tools are all together. The movers put everything into as big of boxes as possible without reguard to organization. And now we have smaller place. So I have wardrobe and half wardrobe size boxes full of mystery items and not enough room or energy to get stuff sorted out. But the boxes are starting to crumple from the weight, so sorting will have to happen before too many big car projects get going.
 
Last edited:
Do you happen to have a sound clip of your throttle body whistling? I also have a BBK unit and lately there has been a whistling noise at idle and I can hear it get louder as I take off up to 1.5k rpm but after that, it either goes away or my exhaust drowns it out.
 
Do you happen to have a sound clip of your throttle body whistling? I also have a BBK unit and lately there has been a whistling noise at idle and I can hear it get louder as I take off up to 1.5k rpm but after that, it either goes away or my exhaust drowns it out.
I can try to catch it next time the car is out. That sounds about right for a TB whistle. A little throttle and the whistle goes away since the flap is open and the IAC closes.
What I understand causes the whistle in aftermarket TB’s is the sharp, machined edges in the idle air passages. Rounding them off with a Dremel tool has eliminated the noise for others.
Here are some pictures of a modified one. I bet if we dug deep enough into the search results, there will be similar ones on StangNet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I can try to catch it next time the car is out. That sounds about right for a TB whistle. A little throttle and the whistle goes away since the flap is open and the IAC closes.
What I understand causes the whistle in aftermarket TB’s is the sharp, machined edges in the idle air passages. Rounding them off with a Dremel tool has eliminated the noise for others.
Here are some pictures of a modified one. I bet if we dug deep enough into the search results, there will be similar ones on StangNet.
After some research, I am almost certain this is my issue! I wish I could have known when I took the TB off to clean the IAC. Well now I have a nice little project to take on. Just weird that I have had the throttle body on for years and it just started doing this but oh well
 
@Essn95 The car whistles the A flat above the staff when idling below 1000 RPM. It stops with any throttle. I do not see how to attach a video from my iPhone, just pics. It’s not easy to hear over the turbo mufflers on the video.
 
I went ahead and followed that thread and cleaned up the edges in the throttle body to no avail. It’s something I suppose I will get used to. I did clean my IAC while in there and that cleaned up my idle a little so at least I got something out of it. I’ll just tell people I have a Procharger
 
I've drilled the hole in the throttle plate like the stock one. Tried smoothing out the IAC passages, etc. Still whistles like a beotch

I plan on eventually giving this sucker a try.. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9939A/1986-93-Mustang-50L-58L-Idle-Air-Control-Iac-Adjuster
That’s the kit originally designed for the trucks I picked up second hand. Cutting out a piece of the gasket can work with trial and error, as can drilling a hole or slot in the IAC divider. What makes the spacer kit better is the needle screws are adjustable.
 
That’s the kit originally designed for the trucks I picked up second hand. Cutting out a piece of the gasket can work with trial and error, as can drilling a hole or slot in the IAC divider. What makes the spacer kit better is the needle screws are adjustable.
I think the BBK has something like this already, at least for the 94/5. It has a screw right in front of the IAC where I can raise-lower idle
 
I realized my throttle body was shut at idle so my IAC was doing all the work. I did a base idle reset and now there’s no whistle at idle. I will see if it stays this way. I still have a little blow off noise after shutoff but it’s not as loud anymore. Maybe give this a try next, I forgot how nice it is at idle without that noise
 
Thanks to @2Blue2 finding this on testing limited slip differentials. The Ford 8.8” limited slip is functionally the same as the GM Eaton differentials, so this should be a good guide to know when we’ve burned up the clutches.

Found this online for GM Eaton style posi.

The method used for determining clutch and system performance to a testable standard is = (must resist or not not turn @ or below 250 LBS torque) A little old school but a test used years ago when I worked on the Dealership Heavy Line. Use a torque wrench to measure the minimum allowable resistance of the posi assembly. required to turn one axle while the other is held in place. If it fails to turn at 250 LBS then is passes the the clutch test.
The method used for determining clutch and system performance to a testable standard is = (must resist or not not turn @ or below 250 LBS torque) A little old school but a test used years ago when I worked on the Dealership Heavy Line. Use a torque wrench to measure the minimum allowable resistance of the posi assembly. required to turn one axle while the other is held in place. If it fails to turn at 250 LBS then is passes the the clutch test.

Rotational force must be centered on axle not lug nut.



(vintage mustang forum);
The Ford shop manuals say's that with one tire on the floor,and with a tool that centers the torque wrench with the axle on the raised side. The constant torque required to spin the tire should be at least 40 ft lbs. It also say's that the break away torque may be greater. Like 200-275.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
So much for the “never seen snow” thing.
The blizzard on the 23rd was short nasty, but the highs on Christmas Eve and Day were near 50. Oops. This is during a break in the snow and some 70 mph gusts. I think the posi works. It was quite a shopping trip. Even the 4x4 pickups and crossovers were spinning all 4 wheels trying to leave the stop signs and lights. At least almost no one else was in the stores I wanted to visit.
5F2D2C90-8932-4F59-8D6B-47EB84BC8F2D.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users