89gt starting issue

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.) Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

See the following links for wiring diagrams...

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-98 model cars


2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. . See the above graphic for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay. The fuse links live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. This tells the computer to shut off the fuel injectors. If it starts, replace the ECT.

i would say get a gerry can and put some gas in it. could be as simple as not enough to keep engine running.

...I have this problem...cranks but no spark.
just did a 4cyl swap..fuel pump is working with some creative wiring.

I'm getting power to the plug that goes into the coil
I replaced the coil with a new one
--my distributor did get oil all in it when we did the oil pan...would these two things more likely be my issue?
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
not sure how sensitive these things are to motor oil?

Nicoleb3x3 said:

...I have this problem...cranks but no spark.
just did a 4cyl swap..fuel pump is working with some creative wiring.

I'm getting power to the plug that goes into the coil
I replaced the coil with a new one
--my distributor did get oil all in it when we did the oil pan...would these two things more likely be my issue?
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
not sure how sensitive these things are to motor oil?

Click to expand...

See the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist I posted eariler for the answer to your question a to which one is most likely to fail. Both parts are oil resistant. Check the TFI contacts to see that they are clean & oil free.

one of my injectors is stuck open...I can hear it...does anyone know of this problem and it relation to no spark symtoms? perhaps there's a common link between the two problem?

...having the injector stuck open is making me re-think my approach to solving this...I obviously cannot simply clean the distributor more and try to crank it again knowing the injector is stuck...

what do I solve first...the injector...or the spark?
with the injector stuck open like that...I prolly shouldn't be cranking it anymore

ok, we got one spark after I let off the key after cranking...but no spark when actually cranking it...anyone know what this might point to?

-we're still testing, but if you might have an idea it could help out allot!

possibly the tfi or the pip (cant remember which one does what....been a long night of michelob lager) not opening the primary circuit and making the coil fire until after you let off the key and the coil actually loses power and fires the coil. i dont know, just some drunk basic ignition thinking

how do I test the pip? or would I need to replace it?
I guess I can remove the tfi module and have that tested...

anyhow, I have an eec relay with electical tape on it...I'd like to test that tomorrow; how do I test the red wire for 12 volts? (I've never done much wire testing before...there's no bare wire...so um...I feel stupid asking)

get a small paper clip or needle and stick it in the back of the connector where the wires goes in. it might not be 12v, it might be 5v but im not sure since ive never tested one before. but if you find close to 5 volts dont be alarmed

If you have a grey TFI module, look for the start-signal at Pin 4.
If you have spark at any time (and/or injector pulsing) the PIP would be working in some capacity. A quick and dirty test is to put a noid light on an injector connector. If no spark and no pulsing, the PIP is possible.

Good luck.

if the eec relay "clicks" does that mean it's working?

i tested the red wire at the injectors...and nothing

and before that I got no pulse or any constant light on the injectors either...but the eec relay does click...but does that mean it works???

Nicoleb3x3 said:

if the eec relay "clicks" does that mean it's working?

i tested the red wire at the injectors...and nothing

and before that I got no pulse or any constant light on the injectors either...but the eec relay does click...but does that mean it works???

Click to expand...

See Jrichker's list for more/ancillary info.

A relay that clicks does not mean it's staying energized.

I would check the relay socket for the EEC relay and note values. If good (the positive and negative are present to energize the coil, and the common terminal has 12 volts), then I'd think relay. I suppose you could use a fused jumper across the common and Normally Open terminal to see if the pathways energize (this bypasses the relay).

If you're missing an element when you test the relay socket (most likely is the common terminal element), look at the fusible link off the solenoid. Criticman has a long thread going currently where this very link burned - see that thread for more info if that's the problemo.

Good luck.

we have missing contstant power to the eec relay...yellow wire..fuse link g

now...if the tfi module is bad...would it interupt the contstang power to the eec relay

Nicoleb3x3 said:

we have missing contstant power to the eec relay...yellow wire..fuse link g

now...if the tfi module is bad...would it interupt the contstang power to the eec relay

Click to expand...

No that is a seperate item.

See the attached diagram

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

k, I got a blue wire and a brown wire with two fuse links with no power...and I have htem grounded! um...shouldn't these have constant power? shoudl they be on teh starter relay terminal?????

THIS MAY BE IT???!!! CAN SOMEONE CONFIRM IT'S NOT A SUPPOSED TO BE A GROUND?

I GOT IT!!!!!!!

YAY! 5.0 SWAP COMPLETE!