93 GT Vert

You can use a timing light to set the timing. Just remember to unplug the spout conector before you do it and plug the spout connector back in when you are done.

Congrats on the new toy!!

What year is the engine out of? That cam is a nonroller cam you have in it.

Agreed. Ignition timing and cam timing are different (think of ignition timing as the relationship between the spark firing vs piston displacement).

You might want to give the car a bumper to bumper once-over just for the sake of doing so. Swap fluids and filters and things like that as well if the maintenance history is ambiguous.

Enjoy!

try using the light, see what happens

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.



See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

JR is right-on. If you didnt already, retrieve the codes before erasing them.

I agree with the timing stuff. I ultimately time by ear but I put a light on it to make changes (so I can advance or retard exactly 2* for instance). Make no mistake - your ear is what ultimately matters (and trumps some number lit by a timing light). But a light can get someone close, and if after setting it by ear, someone is yards away from where it should be, that can suggest an issue.

One concern with lumpy cams is that some like to idle a little better with more ignition advance. This can lead to pinging under other conditions.

Good luck.