Someone really went overboard on the RTV on the intake gasket. When you put it back together I wouldn’t recommend putting any around the intake ports when you put it back together. A little around the water jackets doesn’t hurt.
I ported mine with a burr on a drill the used a Dremel with a sanding bit/pad to finish up. What heads do you have? If they are GT40 or stock it’s probably not worth the effort. If you have aluminum heads porting the lower will be worth it.I had to pry out the injectors from the explorer lower intake. After an initial cleaning, here is what it looks like.
How clean do the injector ports need to be for the injectors to seal properly and not leak?
Any ideas on a good technique to polish the ports without going to a machine shop? Maybe use some sandpaper on a Dremel?
I have stock heads. Have been looking at aluminum heads, but there are lots of options and are they worth the $$ on a year 93 302 motor?? Or might it be more prudent to go with a 351w motor or maybe a 302 turbo set up? For now I’ll stick with stock heads and get it running good. It’s for street driving and maybe a little autocross in future.I ported mine with a burr on a drill the used a Dremel with a sanding bit/pad to finish up. What heads do you have? If they are GT40 or stock it’s probably not worth the effort. If you have aluminum heads porting the lower will be worth it.
Correct -- I meant to identify that the Brake Booster port feeds off/to the vacuum manifold which is mounted on the firewall. I want to make sure that the other ports should be blocked off.I'm not that familiar with a '93, but for earlier Mustangs, this diagram applies. I know on most models the brake booster is fed from the vacuum tree on the firewall.
Not all can be blocked off. You still need vacuum for the fuel pressure regulator and PCV valve at a minimum.Correct -- I meant to identify that the Brake Booster port feeds off/to the vacuum manifold which is mounted on the firewall. I want to make sure that the other ports should be blocked off.
The thing with explorer intakes is that there were 3 different versions of the upper and 3 different vac line setups. I put together the below to try and come up with a way to hook it up as close to factory stock as possible. That meant pulling the existing vac ports out and drill/tap for NPT and installing hose barbs.
Correct, I have no EGR hooked up at all and I'm not going to try to hook it up at this point. So I can hook up off the ports to the booster and fuel regulator as in my original #25 post photo and it should work fine -- this is what I wanted to confirm. I really didn't want to tap the 3/8 NPT port to screw in the vac tree.Are you running the EGR? If not, then you do not need to install the vac tree as you have the appropriate number of vacuum ports at the rear. At that point it's really you decision if you want to leave the ports as is, or install the OEM vac tree.
The fuel pressure regulator and charcoal canister should have their own dedicated vac port. That would be the capped port in the front on your above pic where the MC2 is located. The uncapped port at the rear (where MC2 is) would connect to the MAP sensor on the 86-88 Speed density cars. On your 93 this is also capped.
SO really the first question to ask is what vac ports do you need? Fuel pressure and the brake booster source are the two main ones. But do you also need the EGR and charcoal canister?
The PCV routing is already correct on your manifold. And the two lines that are capped where the PCV line goes into the "throat" are actually coolant lines.