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Electrical 94 GT MAF

  • Thread starter Thread starter GTVin
  • Start date Start date Jan 17, 2019

GTVin

Member
Jan 15, 2019
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San Diego
Jan 17, 2019
#1
  • Jan 17, 2019
  • #1
Can a 75 MAF fit in the stock airbox?
 

GTVin

Member
Jan 15, 2019
52
4
18
San Diego
Jan 24, 2019
#2
  • Jan 24, 2019
  • #2
Should I notice a difference in my idle if I unplug my MAF while car is running?
Reason I'm asking is I have a stumble at idle and someone told me to unplug the MAF and if there's no difference then my MAF is no good??
 

VibrantRedGT

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Nov 29, 1999
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Jan 25, 2019
#3
  • Jan 25, 2019
  • #3
Yes, the car will run horribly when the MAF is unplugged (limp mode). The MAF is telling the ECC how much air is entering the motor. It adjusts fuel accordingly.

Run a code scanner and see what codes are stored.

Do the free stuff first like checking plugs, plug wires (non burned up by the header), etc.

Vacuum leaks are notorious for making these cars run horribly.
 
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VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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#4
  • Jan 25, 2019
  • #4
Not without some modification. If the 75MM MAF has the 4-bolt flange like the stock 70MM unit you would have to oblong the 4 bolt holes. Still I believe most 75's are longer than the stock unit, don't think it will work honestly.

What you can do is buy an air filter with 4 studs and just bolt the filter to the 75MM MAF. I know UPR makes a kit, I had one on my old 94 back in the day. You can also just buy a cold air kit.

Like this http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=290556243360
 
Last edited: Jan 25, 2019

GTVin

Member
Jan 15, 2019
52
4
18
San Diego
Jan 25, 2019
#5
  • Jan 25, 2019
  • #5
VibrantRedGT said:
Yes, the car will run horribly when the MAF is unplugged (limp mode). The MAF is telling the ECC how much air is entering the motor. It adjusts fuel accordingly.

Run a code scanner and see what codes are stored.

Do the free stuff first like checking plugs, plug wires (non burned up by the header), etc.

Vacuum leaks are notorious for making these cars run horribly.
Click to expand...
Codes 652, 113, 157, 628 a little overwhelming. Any help greatly appreciated
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Nov 29, 1999
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Jan 28, 2019
#6
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #6
GTVin said:
Codes 652, 113, 157, 628 a little overwhelming. Any help greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

DISCLAIMER - the below are just comments and in no way the fix to your code issue. Merely providing my two cents. Checks are free so I'd start with that first before buying / changing anything.

652 & 628 - These are automatic transmission codes. 652 - AOD-E torque convertor clutch solenoid circuit failure. Make sure it's plugged in, not damaged, the connector isn't bad, etc. 628 - Converter slippage will trigger this code. I assume your transmission isn't shifting very well and you're having some driveability issues in your transmission. Note - Normally these codes happen when someone changes the AOD-E to a 5-speed manual. The cable is disconnected because the T5 transmission doesn't have a spot to connect it to and the car has no converter.

113 & 157 - These usually are together, never get one or the other. Your idle problems lie here. 113 is for the IAT sensor which is the intake air temp sensor between your MAF and Throttle Body. The 157 is the MAF code. You probably have some sort of wiring issue going on either on the IAT or the MAF. If your cold air piping isn't tight or has a leak you will get these codes. So it's either a short (bad wire or wires somewhere near the IAT or MAF) or you have an air leak in that area (check your connections and make sure everything is air tight. Also many say don't adjust your TPS your ECC will adjust it accordingly which is true but if it was installed out of the .98V-1.13V range it will cause a wonky idle. All three of these things must be in unison.
 

GTVin

Member
Jan 15, 2019
52
4
18
San Diego
Jan 28, 2019
#7
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #7
VibrantRedGT said:
DISCLAIMER - the below are just comments and in no way the fix to your code issue. Merely providing my two cents. Checks are free so I'd start with that first before buying / changing anything.

652 & 628 - These are automatic transmission codes. 652 - AOD-E torque convertor clutch solenoid circuit failure. Make sure it's plugged in, not damaged, the connector isn't bad, etc. 628 - Converter slippage will trigger this code. I assume your transmission isn't shifting very well and you're having some driveability issues in your transmission. Note - Normally these codes happen when someone changes the AOD-E to a 5-speed manual. The cable is disconnected because the T5 transmission doesn't have a spot to connect it to and the car has no converter.

113 & 157 - These usually are together, never get one or the other. Your idle problems lie here. 113 is for the IAT sensor which is the intake air temp sensor between your MAF and Throttle Body. The 157 is the MAF code. You probably have some sort of wiring issue going on either on the IAT or the MAF. If your cold air piping isn't tight or has a leak you will get these codes. So it's either a short (bad wire or wires somewhere near the IAT or MAF) or you have an air leak in that area (check your connections and make sure everything is air tight. Also many say don't adjust your TPS your ECC will adjust it accordingly which is true but if it was installed out of the .98V-1.13V range it will cause a wonky idle. All three of these things must be in unison.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply!!!
Transmission shifts perfectly. Runs really well besides the rough idle. And I replaced Both MAF & IAT also checked all wires and double checked.
 

VibrantRedGT

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#8
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #8
GTVin said:
Thanks for your reply!!!
Transmission shifts perfectly. Runs really well besides the rough idle. And I replaced Both MAF & IAT also checked all wires and double checked.
Click to expand...

Clear these codes and enjoy.
 
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GTVin

Member
Jan 15, 2019
52
4
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San Diego
Jan 28, 2019
#9
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #9
VibrantRedGT said:
Clear these codes and enjoy.
Click to expand...
Do I clear by just disconnecting the battery?
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
14,679
424
154
Boca Raton, Florida
Jan 28, 2019
#10
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #10
GTVin said:
Do I clear by just disconnecting the battery?
Click to expand...

Use your code scanner. Should be a clear button.
 

GTVin

Member
Jan 15, 2019
52
4
18
San Diego
Jan 28, 2019
#11
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #11
VibrantRedGT said:
Use your code scanner. Should be a clear button.
Click to expand...
I dont have a scanner, I used a jumper.
 

jozsefsz

15 Year Member
Aug 11, 2013
1,243
332
124
Cleveland OH Area
Jan 28, 2019
#12
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #12
There's no code-clear on the OBDI's even if you have a scanner. Disconnect battery for 15 minutes or so (turn on headlights or tap the brakes to drain residual voltage).
 
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GTVin

Member
Jan 15, 2019
52
4
18
San Diego
Jan 28, 2019
#13
  • Jan 28, 2019
  • #13
jozsefsz said:
There's no code-clear on the OBDI's even if you have a scanner. Disconnect battery for 15 minutes or so (turn on headlights or tap the brakes to drain residual voltage).
Click to expand...
Thanks...
 
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