Expired 94gt Bolt Ons Nj $1000

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Jan 28, 2008
1994 Mustang GT 1FALP42T2RF111639
Original 5.0/T5 car, deep forest green, tan cloth, all options except leather
150,239 clean NJ title (previously I had it titled in PA)

See pictures of the car and all the extras in this album:
Selling Pictures Photos by cjr2003firefly2 | Photobucket

View attachment 121350

Being sold as a roller/project – you will need a trailer to pick this up, no exceptions. The car stops, steers, and pushes easily.
What it needs to run/drive
• Exhaust
• Wiring
• Finish subframe connectors
• Seats
• Interior to your level of taste

I “purchased” this car from a neighborhood friend a couple years ago. He bought it as a rough paint and body but running and driving car and planned on turning it into a drag racing vehicle and stripping absolutely everything out of it. As far as I know, it had no major issues when he did drive it around (I remember the TOB squeak that’s about it). He had just started the SFC install when he got a major job promotion that required him to relocate. Unable to take the car with him and a huge influx in salary, he bought a GT500 and gave me the 94 for all my years of helping him tinker on his junk and lending tools, helping with house projects etc. I just had to get it to roller status and get a trailer to get it out of his garage, which I did.
At first I planned on taking some of the aftermarket parts for myself (98 Cobra) and returning the car to near stock, respray, and flip. Life has its way of slowing things down and really the car just sits now. My wife wants to purchase a new home and two cars that don’t run is a big no-no. I am making good headway on the Cobra but I don’t have the time or think this car is worth it for me to get it back to a daily driver type status, so I’m selling. As it sits, I truly believe the value of the car is in the aftermarket parts for most people. Worst comes to worst I will do what I have done with other project cars and plasma cut it up and sell the parts separately (I realize I will make a lot more this way but this also is a large time and storage space for parts investment).
The exterior is still “rough” but at least now with all the new panels it is straight. It will obviously need paint and panel fitment, which I was quoted at $2000 for side work which is a bit higher than cars this guy previously did for me. If you are painting it the factory color (what I quoted) the jams are in good shape so would not need to be redone. The car came off the road running, inspected (passed NJ emissions only and PA emissions and safety), registered, insured.
What you see in the pictures is what you get for the asking price, with the exception of the Optima battery and the 03-04 wheels (these I am keeping). Other modifications the car has:
• Through-floor subframe connector 99% finished on the passenger side. Not started on the driver side.
• Aftermarket clutch adjuster and quadrant
• MM solid steering shaft and rack bushings
• AJE “modular” K member and AJE 5.0 mounts (AJE sells mounts for other engines that use this K member so you don’t have to swap the entire K)
• 03-04 Cobra front lower control arms
• Bilstein front shocks
• MM front springs
• Tokico Mach1 rear shocks
• MM heavy duty LCA with spring perch and sway bar provision
• Horizontal 96-98 tail lights, wired, work correctly (bezels black)
• Aftermarket fiberglass hood and redline tuning struts
• Aftermarket cold air intake, fender filled
• MGW shifter orange handle and aftermarket Holley black cue ball knob
• MM outer tie rod/bump steer kit
• Cobra front calipers, aftermarket pads and rotors (also new hubs)
• Red powdercoated rear calipers and brackets, aftermarket pads and rotors
• HIDs for 9005/9006 setup
• Cobra front bumper
• Shorty headers (studs welded to header for easier H pipe install)
• MM camber caster plates
• Battery relocated to trunk – 2/0 audio grade cable, upgraded trunk and engine grounds, power wires go all the way to fuse box and starter, Stinger 150A circuit breaker protection (this was all done before the car was taken apart, known to work well)

I do realize I could disassemble this car, sell the engine wiring harness, 5.0 and T5 to a hot rodder, sell the aftermarket parts for a ton more than I’m asking, then plasma cut up the remainder of the car and get $200 in scrap. At this time, I would like to sell it as-is to both try and keep another Mustang out of the yard and get it moved ASAP. The above plan probably triples my money but takes time, energy, and space.
Other items that come with the car but are not currently installed (for the asking price):
• Black center console
• 2 black door panels
• 3 black trunk panels
• 2 black a pillars
• 2 front fenders (FORD) – ones on car are cheap thin re-pops
• 94GT stock wheels, tires
• Aftermarket rear springs
• Stuff to put wipers back on (cowl, blades, transmission, etc.)
• Black radio bezel
• Gauge cluster
• Stock GT rear sway bar, Cobra front with bushings, brackets
• Complete dash wiring harness in good shape
• New plug wires, cap, rotor, TOB, pilot bearing, some gaskets, etc.

I also have a ton of other parts that COULD go with the car, but would need to be discussed on a case-by-case basis. As always, cash and speed talk.
• Backup 95 5.0, T5 – both pulled from running car, T5 will probably need a rebuild
• The pictured Optima battery
• The pictured 03-04 wheels. 17x9, 17x10.5. Nitto fronts 7/32 left 245 series. Standard 315/35/17 Nitto drag radials out back. Also have a brand new set of Sumitomo street tires in same size for rear. Wheels were professionally repaired (curb rash, small dings, etc.), sandblasted, and powdercoated minitexture black (somewhere between black smooth gloss and a full wrinkle black). Wheels have never been on the street since mounting the tires and balancing (stick on wheel weights) and are immaculate.
• Hunsaker front seats, full tilt adjustment, mounted on sliders specifically for this car for the tall driver (I’m 6’4” and can fit with helmet).
• Black 95GT dash, wired, immaculate. Airbag replaced with delete panel
• Aftermarket adjustable length rear lower control arms (also have height adjustable perch)
• New Cobra stock upper control arms
• H pipe built specifically for this car, 2” more ground clearance than a standard 94/95 H. also has wideband provision
• Brand new 9005/9006 conversion wiring setup, clear projector headlights
• Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks

I have called around to a few junkyards for an emergency backup plan (yes, we’re that close to buying the new house, this needs to GO). I have a standing offer of $300 picked up cash from a junkyard that would keep the car local to me and $700 from a Mustang-specific junkyard that’s about an hour away. KBB says this is worth 3416 at highest and 2591 at lowest. If using my general rule of projects/rollers are worth half of a running car in same condition, let’s say 1300 to make numbers even due to the body/paint.
I came up with the $1000 cash asking price to get it moved quickly. Even for the person who wants to scoop it up and part it out, adding up the value of the big aftermarket items quickly gets you well past that. Again, I just don’t have the time.
Questions concerning the price:
• I am flexible within reason, and open to hearing all offers. That doesn’t mean I won’t laugh and hang up on you if you cheapass lowball me, but if you have some out-in-left-field idea that would make the process of ridding my garage of this car easier for me, let me hear it.
• I am open to trades on tools, shop equipment, or a 1996+ 4WD SUV or truck (I do not care what make, model, engine, trans, or options). Trades should be reasonable, I am not interested in your $135,000 5-axis mill.
• Payment methods: cash (preferred), Paypal (no gifts, you add the fees), personal check, money order. If you are paying with a personal check, you do not get the car until Wells Fargo shows the money has cleared in my online statement. Mail it to me, come with the trailer when I call you type deal. There will be a bill of sale with the car for what you actually pay for it with notations as to the condition of the car, whatever you want to do as far as paying your state taxes is fine with me.
• I am not willing to part out anything off the car at this point that would make it a non-roller. If you want to make an offer on any of the parts that make me capable of steering and pushing this car in and out of my garage every day when I need the space for side work, you need to have a stock part I can reinstall. Your offer must also be really good for the part, because I really am not interested in putting in the time to pull the part off the car, meet you, and reinstall yours.
• I am willing to hear offers on any of the aftermarket parts currently not on the car listed in the “COULD go with” category. They are fairly easy to move/sell and would help my storage issue. That being said, if you are purchasing them separate from the car, it will be at a significantly higher price than if you were purchasing the car and negotiating them as extras (for example, the adjustable rear lower control arms retail for around $325 – buy them with the car and $100 is reasonable to me. Without the car you’re going to need to be in the $200+ range).

If you have any questions about anything, please contact me – ASSUME nothing. If you are a serious buyer and want a quick response, please call or text me at (609) 558-1649 or email me at [email protected] and I will get back to you within the hour. If you are a less serious buyer and do not need an immediate response, PM me. The car is listed multiple places and I will do the best I can to keep the list of parts still available and the car’s status as updated as possible.
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