Progress Thread 95 2-Top Cobra Build Thread- Never ending

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Good deal on the wheels/tires.
Just an observation.. never seen Sumitomos with that tread pattern, I had Goodyear F1 with a similar pattern and they were old.
Check the date code on those tires just in case.
 
Good deal on the wheels/tires.
Just an observation.. never seen Sumitomos with that tread pattern, I had Goodyear F1 with a similar pattern and they were old.
Check the date code on those tires just in case.
Late 2018 date code. Only bad thing is they’re directional so no rotations but should grip nicely.
 
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Here’s some pics mounted. I have to say the ceramic coating on these wheels really boosted the gloss and no dirt or water has stuck to them through this “hurricane”. The tires are the best improvement being a 275 summer square setup. The car has so much more grip through turns and hooks right up.
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I don’t mean to take away from your excitement, but in my opinion the car looks better and more “special” with the factory wheels. With those wheels, it looks like any other SN on the road.

That being said, if you’re able to enjoy the car more with the new wheels and tires, rock on! :rock:
 
I don’t mean to take away from your excitement, but in my opinion the car looks better and more “special” with the factory wheels. With those wheels, it looks like any other SN on the road.

That being said, if you’re able to enjoy the car more with the new wheels and tires, rock on! :rock:
I know where you’re coming from and I agree with you to an extent. My cobra wheels needed new tires and these popped up and for the price I couldn’t pass. I plan to switch between the two often as you rarely see a cobra on stock wheels. I just wanted a little change for now. Stock wheels are stored next to the hardtop and will still be utilized often.
 
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The gripe I have with the factory Cobra wheels is the plastic center cap. The more you have to pry them in and out, the more likely you are to narf the wheel or the cap itself. I lived when them on my car for about a year before I switched to the '98s which have the exposed lug nuts - much simpler, especially if you swap to track tires often.
 
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The gripe I have with the factory Cobra wheels is the plastic center cap. The more you have to pry them in and out, the more likely you are to narf the wheel or the cap itself. I lived when them on my car for about a year before I switched to the '98s which have the exposed lug nuts - much simpler, especially if you swap to track tires often.
I agree, if you ever need to take them off you almost always leave a little damage on the wheel. I feel like they could have made it a one piece wheel
 
So I’ve circled back around to the noise my car makes every time is shut off. It is the sound of air being sucked in and then blown off. It’s very loud under the hood and can be heard in the cabin. The sound is coming from my brake booster, from I believe the check valve. I found this article from autozone stating “The best power brake booster check valve for cars and trucks ensures the brake booster maintains a vacuum for proper function when the engine no longer runs. Most modern cars have a brake booster due to the brake safety they provide the driver and passengers. The check valve protects the brake lines from getting an air bubble by sucking out trapped air from the brake booster and preventing it from entering the brake cylinder. An air bubble in the brake lines negatively impacts their function leading to squishy brakes. Even if the engine is not running, the check valve continues to hold the vacuum suction to allow for easy, fast braking of the vehicle. Brakes that stop working or are spongy may indicate a bad check valve. A difficult to engage brake pedal can also signal an issue with the check valve.”

My brakes function fine but this sound is new (came up about a month ago). Is the check valve just doing its job? Does this indicate an issue that I should look into like why there is so much air in my brake system to be relieved? A new check valve and grommet is only 5 dollars but I want to ensure that it’s the check valve that is bad and I don’t have a bigger impending issue.
 
How does the brake pedal feel after you shut off the engine and hear the hissing noise? Can you get one to three assisted pushes on the pedal before it firms up? If the pedal gets firm right after you shut off the engine and hear the noise, then I think it's just the booster not holding vacuum - bad check valve.
 
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How does the brake pedal feel after you shut off the engine and hear the hissing noise? Can you get one to three assisted pushes on the pedal before it firms up? If the pedal gets firm right after you shut off the engine and hear the noise, then I think it's just the booster not holding vacuum - bad check valve.
I can get about 4 pumps before it goes full hard. Each time I press the pedal it makes an air “whoosh” sound.
 
Pull the vac line off the booster and cap it at the vac tree. This eliminates the booster from the vacuum system. Start car. Shut car off. See if noise is still there. If gone, replace the check valve and grommet and repeat.

leaking booster will hiss when you step on pedal while engine running
 
Pull the vac line off the booster and cap it at the vac tree. This eliminates the booster from the vacuum system. Start car. Shut car off. See if noise is still there. If gone, replace the check valve and grommet and repeat.

leaking booster will hiss when you step on pedal while engine running
Thank you. I took advantage of the 25 percent off at advance and just picked up the valve and grommet while I was there for my serpentine belt. I’ll test and change if necessary
 
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No dice on the noise yet but I did yank the fender
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Why did you pull the fender?
Forgot to mention. It was an aftermarket fender with horrible paintwork. There was rain in it and a big golf ball size “touch up” I will snag a pic tomorrow. Found an oem fender in mint condition for $40 so that way I can get a Ford fender and save on painting the old one
 
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