Progress Thread 95 2-Top Cobra Build Thread- Proving Grounds

Essn95

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Picked up a NOS svt emblem to get the car back to stock, soon will get the motor mounts done. Debating on getting some subframe connectors. Wondering on which is the best for a tight budget
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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SFCs are nice, but they don’t provide a night/day difference in chassis rigidity on an SN-95 as they do on a Fox. If it’s between SFCs and engine mounts, I’d go with the mounts if the originals are in dire need of replacement.
 

Essn95

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SFCs are nice, but they don’t provide a night/day difference in chassis rigidity on an SN-95 as they do on a Fox. If it’s between SFCs and engine mounts, I’d go with the mounts if the originals are in dire need of replacement.
I’m so doing the motor mounts regardless. They’re shot anyway. Sfc would just be to better the suspension
 

Essn95

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Just swapped in some leds to the gauge cluster and license plate lights, quite simple and good looking I think. Still have to do led map and dome light and eventually hvac
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95BlueStallion

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I guess any of them work to a degree. I'd just stay away from bolt on options personally. The holes you have to drill in your subframes will hollw out over time with every flex of the car. Just leads to long term damage to the sub frames.
 

Essn95

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These seem very enticing at first but they seem to be a little shorter than most? The price is very good but I don't think these are true full lengths
https://www.americanmuscle.com/sr-performance-subframe-connectors-black-7904.html

These also seem to be a true full length at a good price but don't seem to have the seat bracket support, is that a big deal?
https://lmr.com/item/JM-25106/79-04-mustang-subframe-connectors-j-m-25106@95BlueStallion

another possibility
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-FULLSUBS/79-04-Mustang-Full-Length-Bare-Subframe-Connectors
 

02 281 GT

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I’m so doing the motor mounts regardless. They’re shot anyway. Sfc would just be to better the suspension
Sounds good. I only suggested that course of action because your post read as though you only had money for one or the other. You still can't go wrong with SFCs on any unibody car. I have the Maximum Motorsports versions with seat brackets on my '95 Cobra.
 

95BlueStallion

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I’m seriously considering those sve ones for 100, has the reinforcements as well. Thoughts? @95BlueStallion

Im sure they will help. Its just one of those things where you get what you pay for. Without looking up the specs, Im guessing the SVE versions are thinner walled metal. While youre saving $59 over the bare MM full length, keep in mind they will be on your car for the rest of the car's life. You wont mind that missing $59 plus $7 for a rattle can of paint six months from now, let alone years from now. That is the mentality I try to keep when deciding on my mods. The intended use of the car, and if skipping out on top of the line is truely going to be worth it long term. Wear items (brake pads, suspension parts, wec) are a little different since those will be changed out again over time regardless, but something so permenant is totally different IMO.
 
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Essn95

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I’ll have to put more thought to the sfc then, thanks for all the input.
As for today I started on the odometer gear repair, picked the part off amazon for 6 bucks and it’s coming in tomorrow,
I’m the mean time I did all the prep work and determined the driven gear was all broken up and crumbling and the top of the worm gear is sheared off
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Boostedpimp

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I have personally used maximum motorsports and steeda full length sub frames.. normal size bbk grip and no name $56 ebay subframes. They all did there job fine. Didn't notice any difference over the full lenght and standard lengths on the road. All four sets I used all had the cross brace which I think should be a must. I've destroyed a few seat mounts and floor pans because of it. Quality wise the MM and Steeda were really nice, great instructions while the bbk and no name elcheapo brand had no instructions but fit perfectly as well. I believe allot of it has to do with how twisted your car is already prior to install. The elcheapo ebay connectors surprised me. I didn't think they would match up in measurement and fit right without a ton of work but they did. I'll be ordering another set of them in a few weeks for my coupe since I don't really need anything crazy under the car.
 

Davedacarpainter

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Look at the dimensions of the tubing. Last time I checked the SVE's are 1"x2". The MM sfc's are 1.5"x2".

Look at the cross sectional width of the steel itself.

You need to believe I've researched the sfc issue. The MM sfc's are a steal at the price (some pun intended).

You can save $50 or $60 here if you want. In the history of what you'll be doing to your car, this would be one of the places to say, "What the hell" and spend the coin. It's not that many coins after all.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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I know it doesn’t seem like much as in $60 but for me that’s difficult
I always try to find the balance between price and quality that I’m happy with, I found these as well, UPR is supposed to be a solid brand right.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-full-length-subframe-connectors.html

Here's what you get when you look at something like the UPR pieces that you just pictured....

A warm and fuzzy.

Just because they fit does not automatically make it worth your while to install them. The wall thickness of those connectors look to be about .o60"

Buy them, put one end in a vise, grab the other end with a pair of channel locks, and see how much force it takes for you to twist them.

I bet they twist like mad.

"Something is better than nothing" is all you'll be doing for yourself when you add a cheap set like that to the floor of your car.

SF connectors in these cars are a big deal. They can go from adding the "modest" rigidity that you'll get from the addition of something like those UPR pieces, to making the chassis so rigid that you can jack up the whole back of the car from one side. The more rigid you make it, the less of an instance of chassis twist. If you control chassis twist, the car handles better, it 60 foots better, it rides better, it doesn't rattle every damn thing loose, every time you go down a rough stretch of road, and the floors don't rip.

If you can weld, make your own..it's probably the easiest project to make a set of SF connectors on the planet.
 

Essn95

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Would it be ideal to weld it ourselves to save costs? Most shops quoted around 200 bucks to weld them in, so would it be better to splurge on the mm ones and weld them ourselves? Or is that too much for an inexperienced welder
Here's what you get when you look at something like the UPR pieces that you just pictured....

A warm and fuzzy.

Just because they fit does not automatically make it worth your while to install them. The wall thickness of those connectors look to be about .o60"

Buy them, put one end in a vise, grab the other end with a pair of channel locks, and see how much force it takes for you to twist them.

I bet they twist like mad.

"Something is better than nothing" is all you'll be doing for yourself when you add a cheap set like that to the floor of your car.

SF connectors in these cars are a big deal. They can go from adding the "modest" rigidity that you'll get from the addition of something like those UPR pieces, to making the chassis so rigid that you can jack up the whole back of the car from one side. The more rigid you make it, the less of an instance of chassis twist. If you control chassis twist, the car handles better, it 60 foots better, it rides better, it doesn't rattle every damn thing loose, every time you go down a rough stretch of road, and the floors don't rip.

If you can weld, make your own..it's probably the easiest project to make a set of SF connectors on the planet.
 

Essn95

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Jun 21, 2017
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Also I figured I’ll keep an eye out for a good price on a set of MM or Steeda and continue to save up. The sloppiness in the vert is quite bad over bumpy roads.
Side note: Lowering springs and engine mounts coming soon when we can find time. Figured I will put them in with no isos for now and see how the stance is, if needed like some other people I can cut the dead coil off the FRPP B springs to get lower and get rid of rake